Is knukonceptz good stuff?

Those are pretty slick. Where did you get the maxi fuse holder pcs from?
I actually robbed the maxi holder peices from the cheap scorshe maxi's fuse holders you buy at walmart, then drilled them out, and filed them down to fit on the block //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif It was on the expensive side for me to build up one or two of these fuseholders, but they last forever and take stupid amounts of current thru them.

Im still waiting for an answer from Knuconcepts dude about why they dont make a fuse block that kicks ass that I can make out of peices from their competitors ? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

I should go take a picture of the new block in my jeep and post it. Its similar to the one I posted it just has min-anl's in it to comply with MECA SPL fusing.

 
@ knukonceptz.....

I also wasnt pleased with part of my order. I had emailed about it like 3 times a long time ago and got no response so gave up. I ordered over $150 worth of stuff and in that order was for (2) 0/1 guage fuse holders near the batt. the fuses WERE NOT included , but it said fuses are free if you order one of those fuses. I was in a bind and had to go out and waste another $20 at a local shop coz I needed my system going asap for a comp. It was a pain in the butt to have the system ready to go and no main fuses to even get it started.

Ya think 2 fuses sent to me would be much to ask? Itd be nice if I finally got them

 
The cable is nowhere near the exhaust or manifold and is in fact in the coolest section of my engine bay. My battery is on teh right side of my car and teh wire runs out from it to the right which is away from the engine. I will get pictures later.

Jacket is rated to 105C. If you have it near the header/exhaust manifold it could cause coloration over time
 
Because we are giving you a refund. I cant believe that two terminals of different post diameter fail to fit three different battery posts. You have no way to measure anything and you ask why we want them back? So sitting at my desk in Ohio the only resolution is to provide a refund as I cant do anything else with as little information provided.
Well it seems everyone else is not having this issue, id be more then willing to try another set and send these back, but it seems your only resolution is refund in which case i'll need to purchase somethign before i send these back. Ive gave you all information needed in this case minus a measurement.

 
That is why I was asking for a measurement. Why keep sending product back and forth if we do not know where the problem truly is at this point. And since you want a resolution, I am offering it.

Snoop - we do not make any one off items - tooling a new item takes several thousands of dollars. To recoup this you need to manufacture several thousand of them. MECA changes rules so often its very hard to make something specific for just that one application. Just like DB drag guys make their own terminals/buss bars, we could not mass produce one that would fit everyone's need. Its merely economics. Now that said, we were working on using existing parts for a few blocks about a year ago but we never completed that setup. Maybe later this month I'll finish up one and let you see what I am talking about.

Prober - email me your order# or theemail address the order was placed with.

 
Jacket is rated to 105C. If you have it near the header/exhaust manifold it could cause coloration over time
I'm not as worried about coloration as I am the cracks that have developed in it. Also in this area of engine compartment I highly doubt the temp reaches 378 deg Fahrenheit. It's above the strut tower

DSC_0230.jpg


DSC_0233.jpg


 
RCA...KrystalPower....kollosos

Good stuff.
I agree. I'm using KNU for almost all of my wires/cables. I'm also using their battery terminals and 4 of their dist blocks. Personally, I love the kompression style fittings on the dist blocks. Its far more secure than a screw-type terminal and has more contact area than a crimp style terminal (not to mention it's re-useable)

 
I highly doubt the temp reaches 378 deg Fahrenheit.
105C equals 221, just above boiling. Its the only the exposed part? I can only think of a few things, high heat, too much sunlight (not likely) or degreaser and or Armour All. Ever see what Armour All does to plastic, it makes it brittle, which fits the cracking.

 
Ah crap, I went to Kelvin, not F, sorry. I still don;t think things will get to 221 on that side of the engine. You can tell how dirty my engine is that I have no armour all or anything else on it and especially no degreaser. I never touch it with any of that stuff and this wire has never been touched.

All that being said, it's probably not specific to knu but I wish I knew what made it go bad. I won some knu 1/0 ga from a Christmas raffle on here a few years ago. I used it on my jeep. I had it ran outside the keep and rubbiong against bare metal and all and it never faltered. Held up really well. When I needed some for my new car, I bought knu b/c mine had held up well and knu was nice enough to donate to the Christmas raffle. I am going to buy a new run of 1/0 to upgrade my amps and do a big 3 but I want it to last longer. I swear it's never been touched with degreaser or any type of cleaner or even water for that matter.

Maybe it does get hot enough to crack over there but I don;t see how and if so, the heat will play hell with some big 3 cable runs. I think knu can be trusted as much if not more than other brands when I have compared it to others side by side. My 1/o worked great and never faded or cracked. I have always trusted the cable but got worried when I saw the condition of this cable in my car. Now I don't know what to do .

105C equals 221, just above boiling. Its the only the exposed part? I can only think of a few things, high heat, too much sunlight (not likely) or degreaser and or Armour All. Ever see what Armour All does to plastic, it makes it brittle, which fits the cracking.
 
I've been happy with their products. I've noticed a few small things that I attribute more to my car's engine/temps, and salt/grease. I've seen some corrosion on the battery terminals, namely the set screws. Other than that, nothing I've encountered hasn't been outside of user error, or rushing my install and doing something kind of stupid. My only gripe is the difficulty in splitting 12 and 10 gauge speaker wire, the klear line. Once a clean split is going, it's fine.

I'll be using their stuff for home theater as well.

 
Snoop - we do not make any one off items - tooling a new item takes several thousands of dollars. To recoup this you need to manufacture several thousand of them. MECA changes rules so often its very hard to make something specific for just that one application. Just like DB drag guys make their own terminals/buss bars, we could not mass produce one that would fit everyone's need. Its merely economics. Now that said, we were working on using existing parts for a few blocks about a year ago but we never completed that setup. Maybe later this month I'll finish up one and let you see what I am talking about.
Ok, cool .. shoot me a pm and some pics of the proto. I wasnt suggesting that you all make exact copies or something of my blocks, just a fuse block that accepts at LEAST dual 1/0 in and dual 1/0 out. It really doesnt matter if you use the mini-anl's, ANL's, or AGU's - its the dual large gauge inputs that are important to note since most larger monoblock amplifiers have dual 1/0 gauge inputs for their dual power supplies like this Atmoic 5000.1

outside2.jpg


Here is a practical use of this :

100_0414.jpg


I just dont get why you guys dont make dual input and dual output 1/0 blocks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Ok, cool .. shoot me a pm and some pics of the proto. I wasnt suggesting that you all make exact copies or something of my blocks, just a fuse block that accepts at LEAST dual 1/0 in and dual 1/0 out. It really doesnt matter if you use the mini-anl's, ANL's, or AGU's - its the dual large gauge inputs that are important to note since most larger monoblock amplifiers have dual 1/0 gauge inputs for their dual power supplies like this Atmoic 5000.1
outside2.jpg


Here is a practical use of this :

100_0414.jpg


I just dont get why you guys dont make dual input and dual output 1/0 blocks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

That is a nice unit there. Got more?..lol

 
Knukonceptz is all budget installation hardware. Your gonna get bunk here and there. That Rep dude is talking out of his ass. Quit making excuses maybe you just have a cheap ass mix of Polymer for the jacket. The picture is blatantly obvious he doesn't Armor All his cover and degrease the chassis. He may have spilled blinker fluid on it right?

Just be straight up your stuff is not as good as others just more affordable and thats that. If it wasn't true it would cost more. Now that this thread is here I think your gonna see more. Why? Cuz the **** was cheap enough in the first place that its expected so no one is gonna *****. Well now we can go right to the man.

 
That rep is the owner, thank you. The cable is made with 105C PVC just like every other manufacture, PVC is the cheapest part of a cable, a lower temp PVC cost 7 cents less PER METER (2.15 cents/ft)......not exactly worth using a lower temp when you know the car will see 200+F. Notice its ONLY the exposed part? Something effected that exposed part. We've been here for 7 years, seems like a small list for seven years of "cheap ****" considering the thousands of products and miles of cable sold. Our products are less expensive because you buy direct, no distributor, no dealer. I am sorry that is to cut and dry for you.

Also, a thread further down shows a Kompressed Kable of ours in an install (posted by Lakota)

100_0770.jpg


See the cable to the far left - its over 4 years old. Dont know how long he's had it installed but is the same jacket and we've not made that cable since atleast 2004....

Snoop, I like your "pratical" 10,000 watt application....LOL

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I dont remember one recently. The kit is a fair enough price for what it comes with IMO
1
919
Absolutely not!!! Acetone eats everything it touches other than metal that is.. there is a reason it comes in metal containers with metal caps...
11
1K
use the icon where it says insert image, icon. press that. How to get your pictures on your computer? Use your iPhone. Then transfer it to...
1
796
What would be your cost savings per unit having your coils wound in aluminum instead of copper? Can you quantify the efficiency (or dB) gains...
5
2K
OK, so turn your music on at moderate listening level and unplug the battery/alternator and see how long that capacitor keeps things playing...
19
2K

About this thread

Lifted07Sierra

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
Lifted07Sierra
Joined
Location
modest, ca
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
107
Views
9,262
Last reply date
Last reply from
KINGDELL91
20240518_170822.jpg

Dylan27

    May 18, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
20240517_190901.jpg

Dylan27

    May 18, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top