Is knukonceptz good stuff?

i understand your point and arguement on the fittings for different size wire, but even if you included the little gold plated sleeves that fit inside i still feel they are a better design because often the fittings are to close for a wrench to have full access too and you can only move it slightly often stripping the sides or the threads, but that only happened on 1 thread.

they are still good blocks, but they're my only complaint with any of your products.

as i said, u guys are still the only people i go too for my wiring, rcas, and terminals for other items. but i prefer different blocks.

hell if i didnt think so i wouldnt have spent well over 800$ with you guys from 4 purchases =].

curious to here if you shipped out the order to tampa florida recently, and if you got the not to change all the red wire in the 2 amp install kits to grey.

 
here are a few things that id like to see from you guys in the future, if you want just advise or customer feedback.

Id love to see you guys make collet / couplers for power wires to connect 2 pieces together, id love to see some barrier / terminal strips from you guys that can hold a 10 - 12 gauge fork or spade end connection, and possibly a mid line rca set with clamping rca ends like on your high end rca's but not with the techflex looking braided loom to keep costs down, and maybe not as high grade wire. something that a little cheaper.

id also like to see 14 gauge karma ss speakerwire.

Mike-

 
Their wire is nice from what Ive heard, but ive heard some people are having issues with the battery terminals and that the kompression blocks are confusing.

Ya their battery terminal ****!

No matter how much I tighten it it will not stay on the post, so I had to modify it a bit(the post).

Otherwise I have Knu fuseholders and d blocks and they have been real good for the price.

Customer service and shipping are excellent as well.

 
You have yet to email/post any measurement. I have a feeling your not installing the terminal all the way down on the post. A battery post is tapered so is our terminal(to match the post). Since I have no information, I cant help. But I'll speculate as you tighten the terminal in might "walk" up the post of the battery. Unscrew the allen set screw completely and twist the terminal onto the post.
Wrench guy - are you saying the RCA's came like that out of the box?

I spent about 5 minutes trying to break the holder, and by squeezing/prying one I could not. Which block and output was it on. Each output has two screws and they go through 3/16" plastic

theothermike - amp's wont use the design because they dont need to allow for multiple gauges into the amp. By usingthe fittings, it makes for endless options that you cant get with a set screw block. Like everything though, there is good enough and then there is better. I think our design is the "better" but yes it does take more time to install.
As i stated i do not have a caliper of any kind and refuse to go buy one just to measure battery terminals and just have it sitting there. No its not "walking up the terminal" as you put it, the terminal is down all the way on the plastic of the battery even gentle tapped with a rubber mallet, although its not needed as the terminal just sits all the way down rather easily. Its far from installation error, 3 different battieries same issue, and not one of them is utterly worthless at all from tightening down and the head snappening off the set screw.

In all honesty they are probably the worse experience with a product i've ever had whatsoever. To tell me i need to measure my battery terminals and report back, i dont see that as a resolution whatsoever, as stated in our emails I DONT HAVE A MEANS TO MEASURE.

 
Mike- that set screw insert is not what I'd want to use on a higher powered application.

Accordman - you dont have a ruler in mm to measure the bottom and top opening of the terminal? This is the internet, we are not down the street from you. Technically they are covered by warranty, What I am getting at by you measuring is if they are not faulty and the issue is the battery posts then you've wasted time and money on return shipping and will have issues with other brand terminals as well. That is the point of measuring. If you call Dell with a PC problem, do they ask you questions? If I call you about a Sundown product problem - wouldnt you ask me voltage/installation questions? I'd hope so....

I am sorry if that seems absurd to ask obvious questions before you pay to mail them back.

 
Mike- that set screw insert is not what I'd want to use on a higher powered application.
Accordman - you dont have a ruler in mm to measure the bottom and top opening of the terminal? This is the internet, we are not down the street from you. Technically they are covered by warranty, What I am getting at by you measuring is if they are not faulty and the issue is the battery posts then you've wasted time and money on return shipping and will have issues with other brand terminals as well. That is the point of measuring. If you call Dell with a PC problem, do they ask you questions? If I call you about a Sundown product problem - wouldnt you ask me voltage/installation questions? I'd hope so....

I am sorry if that seems absurd to ask obvious questions before you pay to mail them back.
If you bought a sundown product form me i would Physically be ablr to look at the installation myself, as im a Local rep, meaning i have to be face to face to sell anything.

Anyhow back to the point, no i do not have a ruler or tape measure, i recently moved where all my tools and other possesions were left behind in the move im lucky to have a few screwdrivers and allen wrenches. I post per dialup on my notebook as i havent established a good internet connection yet.

I'm highly doubting its a battery post issue as stated before i've tryed 3 different batterys with them. and a friends Stinger terminals work on the yellow top.

 
If you bought a sundown product form me i would Physically be ablr to look at the installation myself, as im a Local rep, meaning i have to be face to face to sell anything.
You completely missed the point.

Anyhow back to the point, no i do not have a ruler or tape measure, i recently moved where all my tools and other possesions were left behind in the move im lucky to have a few screwdrivers and allen wrenches. I post per dialup on my notebook as i havent established a good internet connection yet.

I'm highly doubting its a battery post issue as stated before i've tryed 3 different batterys with them. and a friends Stinger terminals work on the yellow top.

Send them back

 
lol i have no terminals whatsoever if i send them back, we used the stingers for troubleshooting purposes, also had i bought some to use while those are gone whats the point in getting them replacd

 
FH-44.jpg


I threw my knuconceptz min-anl fuse holder away. It literally fell apart //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Why dont you guys make something like this -

protofuse3sm.jpg


I build this in my shop,....two 1/0 & 2/0 in and two 1/0 & 2/0 out with 4 maxi's......... all made from off the shelf parts. You should make these in MINI-ANL's as well...........Competitors would kill for something like this, not to mention the guys who have moderate sized systems would never worry about having to upgrade their fuseblock. Ever.

 
I have their power cable in my car and it has worked fine but it doesn't hold up that well. In the engine compartment of my mazda3, the blue 4 ga power cable has faded considerably......that's no big deal really even if it is ugly but what concerns me is that the blue jacket material has begun to crack in places and turn brittle. It's starting to worry me that the jacket is going to disentigrate to the point that it provides not enough insulation. There are significant cracks in the jacket in places. It's been in my car for about 1.5 years. It's obvious that it doesn't hold up to heat very well. The rest of the cable inside the car is fine and looks and performs like new. Now I don't know if all power cable is damaged by engine compartment heat this way, maybe it is but I don't know so it may not be specific to knu cable. I do know I expected more than 2 years life from my power cable, regardless of brand. After 1.5 years, it's ugly and cracked bad enough to where I think I will have to replace it this year.

 
I have their power cable in my car and it has worked fine but it doesn't hold up that well. In the engine compartment of my mazda3, the blue 4 ga power cable has faded considerably......that's no big deal really even if it is ugly but what concerns me is that the blue jacket material has begun to crack in places and turn brittle. It's starting to worry me that the jacket is going to disentigrate to the point that it provides not enough insulation. There are significant cracks in the jacket in places. It's been in my car for about 1.5 years. It's obvious that it doesn't hold up to heat very well. The rest of the cable inside the car is fine and looks and performs like new. Now I don't know if all power cable is damaged by engine compartment heat this way, maybe it is but I don't know so it may not be specific to knu cable. I do know I expected more than 2 years life from my power cable, regardless of brand. After 1.5 years, it's ugly and cracked bad enough to where I think I will have to replace it this year.
have you had any fuel / oil leaks in that 1.5 years?

 
lol i have no terminals whatsoever if i send them back, we used the stingers for troubleshooting purposes, also had i bought some to use while those are gone whats the point in getting them replacd
Because we are giving you a refund. I cant believe that two terminals of different post diameter fail to fit three different battery posts. You have no way to measure anything and you ask why we want them back? So sitting at my desk in Ohio the only resolution is to provide a refund as I cant do anything else with as little information provided.

 
FH-44.jpg

I threw my knuconceptz min-anl fuse holder away. It literally fell apart //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Why dont you guys make something like this -

protofuse3sm.jpg


I build this in my shop,....two 1/0 & 2/0 in and two 1/0 & 2/0 out with 4 maxi's......... all made from off the shelf parts. You should make these in MINI-ANL's as well...........Competitors would kill for something like this, not to mention the guys who have moderate sized systems would never worry about having to upgrade their fuseblock. Ever.
Those are pretty slick. Where did you get the maxi fuse holder pcs from?

 
No It was a new mazda3 bought Feb 2006 and has no oil or fuel leaks. Is the jacket material supposed to hold up more than 1.5 years? I didn;t even notice it until teh other day when I lifted the hood to check out a Big 3 add on and when I saw the cable, I noticed its bad condition.

have you had any fuel / oil leaks in that 1.5 years?
 
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