Installing new system in 99 4-dr Cav

[Tombo 10+ year member]

Hullo,

With a new job I got, I'm finally serious about installing a car audio system in my 99 4-dr Cav.

What I currently have:

- Pioneer 7200 Head Unit

- Bazooka 200 watt 6x9's (back)

- Pioneer 45 watt 4x6's (front)

What I want:

- A high quality MP3 deck (Looking at the base-model Sony and base-model Pioneer)

- 2-way component speakers for the front (tweeder and mid, dunno what size will fit)

- 3-way Pioneer 6x9's in the back

- I *have* a pair of 12" PPI 400 watt subs, w/ closed box in my room, will fit.

- I *want* one amp for the subs, one for all the speakers.

- I *want* to re-wire the car, but don't know what gague of wiring to use (amps, subs, speakers, etc.)

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. Any other questions you have... I'd be more than happy to elaborate.

Please! I need your help! I'm doing all my research - hardcore. I know how to take apart and put together my whole interior, I want to bolt both amps under my front seats, run all the wires under the floor, install some sound-deafening insulation (b-quiet, etc.)

I have no idea about wiring, or what speakers would work best together.

I was hoping to go all-out Pioneer w/ my deck and speakers, and possibly amps. Maybe even sell my subs and get something smaller. Maybe get a capasitor while I'm at it.

Desperate for input,

Tom

Click to read more...

 

[Randy Savage 5,000+ posts]

I like the Alpine MP3 H/u's, but I know some people with Premier's and they like them a lot, and Pioneer is a good name. I dont know about their speakers and amps though, but I'm sure there will be some more replies that are more i depth

 

[Moocow16 10+ year member]

i've heard that the pioneer h/u's load the MP3's slow. i'm getting the Alpine CDA-7995, it plays MP3's, you should take a look at it. http://www.buyloud.com/product_detail.jsp?pid=2189

 

[Frraksurred 10+ year member]

The CDA-7995 is an awesome H/U but keep in mind it has no interanl amp, so you will have to amp all of your outputs (which it looks like you're doing). The CDA-7993 is also an MP3 capable H/U for about $80 less and it has 60x4 V-Drive (27w RMS).

Just thought I'd throw in another option. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif God bless you, hope it goes well.

 

[Tombo 10+ year member]

What about:

JVC KD-SX980

http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&dept=9&WLBS=fs%2Dweb6&biasid=D8DC9ADFF81946D59AE57C5F2DA9BA2E&sku_id=0665000FS10013076&catid=&newdeptid=9

Sony CDX-MP30

http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&dept=9&WLBS=fs%2Dweb6&biasid=D8DC9ADFF81946D59AE57C5F2DA9BA2E&sku_id=0665000FS10013058&catid=&newdeptid=9

Rockford RFX9000

http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&dept=9&WLBS=fs%2Dweb6&biasid=D8DC9ADFF81946D59AE57C5F2DA9BA2E&sku_id=0665000FS10014032&catid=&newdeptid=9

???

And when purchasing amps and speakers, what should I pay attenion for?

Also, Is it worth it to re-wire the speaker cables in my car, instead of sticking with stock wiring? Any advantages, or is it just wasted money?

 

[Trixter 10+ year member]

[And when purchasing amps and speakers, what should I pay attenion for?]

Low THD (Toatl Harmonic Distortion), high SNR (Signal to Noise Ratio), Size of enclosure it calls for (Depending on how much space you want to take up), freq. response (The lower the better for subs).

[Also, Is it worth it to re-wire the speaker cables in my car, instead of sticking with stock wiring? Any advantages, or is it just wasted money? [/b]

I usually run all new wiring. but I have used the stock wirin gin the past with no problems.

 

[Tombo 10+ year member]

Okay, so lemme see if what I'm thinking works..

As far as I know, right now, I'm thinking all I have to do is go out, buy the new deck, the new component speakers, the 3-way 6x9's, and an amp, make sure they're all compatable powerwise, pick up new wiring to run to the speakers, the subs (which I already have), and to the car battery, hook everything up, and that's it?

What gague of wiring should I go for when connecting the speakers? Subs? Power? Anything else?

Speakers: 200 watts

Component Speakers: No idea, whatever the average wattage would be

Subs: a pair of 400 watt PPI 12"

Amp: whatever will comfortably run everything, or I'll have one amp for all the speakers, then one for the subs.

I'd be okay if the subs didn't run at full power, I'm thinking a pair of 200 watt amps would run everything, right?

 

[Trixter 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Tombo Okay, so lemme see if what I'm thinking works..

 

As far as I know, right now, I'm thinking all I have to do is go out, buy the new deck, the new component speakers, the 3-way 6x9's, and an amp, make sure they're all compatable powerwise, pick up new wiring to run to the speakers, the subs (which I already have), and to the car battery, hook everything up, and that's it?

 

What gague of wiring should I go for when connecting the speakers? Subs? Power? Anything else?

 

Speakers: 200 watts

Component Speakers: No idea, whatever the average wattage would be

Subs: a pair of 400 watt PPI 12"

Amp: whatever will comfortably run everything, or I'll have one amp for all the speakers, then one for the subs.

 

I'd be okay if the subs didn't run at full power, I'm thinking a pair of 200 watt amps would run everything, right?

For the wire gauge I would go 14 for the speakers and 12 for the subs. (you could get away with 14 for the subs though.) and 8 gauge for the power and ground. I also think I would go with a 4 channel amp for the speakers and then bridge a 2 channel or mono amp.

If your thinking of getting two 200 watt amps then I imagine that you are looking for somewhere around a 400 watt system? I would suggest getting a 4 channel that would do 50-75 watts/ channel and then a 200 watt amp for the subs.

 

[Tombo 10+ year member]

As for wiring... a difference of 1 gague wouldn't hurt, right? I mean, instead of 14 for the speakers, can I use 13? Not that I'd need it, but it would just make me feel better knowing that my wiring is tough enough to withstand more power than there is being fed through them. (I'm also assuming the smaller the gague, the thicker the wire.) So, 13 for speakers, 11 for subs, and 7 for power and ground - not that it would really matter. I'm assuming the price will be a bit higher, but like I said, it would make me feel better. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Wattage for the entire system... I really have no idea. Here's how my brain works. I know the 3-way Pioneer 6x9's that I'm probably going to buy are 200 watts max, and the component speakers, most likely also Pioneer, will be probably under 200, so I'm thinking a 200 watt amp to power all 4 speakers would work, right? Am I looking for 2 or 4 channels? What else should I pay attention for?

As for the subs, they're 400 watts each, bought off a friend. He powered them with an 800 watt amp, a Kenwood, I *think*, and they sounded very very mean. I don't know if I want to go that intense just yet, so I'm thinking another 200 watt amp, or maybe even a 400 watt amp, would be sufficient to run them. But, that's only if my funds are sufficient, I might just end up with a 200 watt amp, which I'm also assuming would do the job, just not as good. There is no harm in running a pair of 400 watt subs with a 200 watt amp, is there? And again, how many channels am I looking for? What else?

Another thing I'm curious about is just how much power this will **** from my car battery. Will the alternator on my 99 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2L, 4 dr, be able to handle all this safely, without causing lights in my car to dim? If not, I suppose I'm looking for a "power cap"?

Hah, sorry, I really don't know much at all. I'm searching every resource online I can find before Boxing Day, the proposed date to go on my spending spree to buy everything I can find. I will document everything I do as well, and post it online. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

But hey, you guys are a *lot* of help. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[venom107 10+ year member]

I dont think that load will dim your lights at all. It depends on how many Amps the Amps are pulling (look at the fuse rating). I have a 1.5 L 4 cyclinder Toyota Tercel and I have a 4 channel Alpine which is pulling about a 30A fuse and an 800 watt Profile 60A altogether about 90Amps but this is not constant. My lights dim just barely at max volume and I have a very small alternator. You should be just fine. If you are interested in a very nice but cheap amp look at http://www.profileusa.com The California series are middle of the road on power but very nice on your wallet. Im very pleased with mine. You must always look at the fuse rating on amps. So many people make the mistake of choosing an amp that is underated. (Kenwood,American Legacy,Boss too name a few). Well hope I helped.

 

[Trixter 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Tombo As for wiring... a difference of 1 gague wouldn't hurt, right? I mean, instead of 14 for the speakers, can I use 13? Not that I'd need it, but it would just make me feel better knowing that my wiring is tough enough to withstand more power than there is being fed through them. (I'm also assuming the smaller the gague, the thicker the wire.) So, 13 for speakers, 11 for subs, and 7 for power and ground - not that it would really matter. I'm assuming the price will be a bit higher, but like I said, it would make me feel better. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

Wattage for the entire system... I really have no idea. Here's how my brain works. I know the 3-way Pioneer 6x9's that I'm probably going to buy are 200 watts max, and the component speakers, most likely also Pioneer, will be probably under 200, so I'm thinking a 200 watt amp to power all 4 speakers would work, right? Am I looking for 2 or 4 channels? What else should I pay attention for?

 

As for the subs, they're 400 watts each, bought off a friend. He powered them with an 800 watt amp, a Kenwood, I *think*, and they sounded very very mean. I don't know if I want to go that intense just yet, so I'm thinking another 200 watt amp, or maybe even a 400 watt amp, would be sufficient to run them. But, that's only if my funds are sufficient, I might just end up with a 200 watt amp, which I'm also assuming would do the job, just not as good. There is no harm in running a pair of 400 watt subs with a 200 watt amp, is there? And again, how many channels am I looking for? What else?

 

Another thing I'm curious about is just how much power this will **** from my car battery. Will the alternator on my 99 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2L, 4 dr, be able to handle all this safely, without causing lights in my car to dim? If not, I suppose I'm looking for a "power cap"?

 

Hah, sorry, I really don't know much at all. I'm searching every resource online I can find before Boxing Day, the proposed date to go on my spending spree to buy everything I can find. I will document everything I do as well, and post it online. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

But hey, you guys are a *lot* of help. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

To my knowlege, they only make wire in even numbers. The wiring I gave you will be more than enough even if you plan on up grading.

If you want 200watts for the speakers, then do as I said before, go with a 4 channel amp that is 50-75 watts rms/channel. Lower power will not hurt the subs. ( I'm running 3 HE2's, wich are 400watt rms subs, with a 200 watt amp.) And, like I said above, I would go with a 200watt mono amp or a 200watt 2 channel amp and bridge the channels. As far as power goes, if your going to run about 400watts rms system I see no need to get a cap or a larger alt. I have the set up in my sig. and my lights barely dim.

Any additional Q's....feel free.....that's why we are all here

 

[Tombo 10+ year member]

Okay, everything is comming together now. I'll go with the gague of wire first suggested, 14 for speakers, 12 for subs, and 8 for power/ground. I will rewire the speakers, run new wiring through the doors/under the dash/etc. I found a few helpful walkthroughs on how to take apart the interior of my car, I linked them below if any other cavalier owners are interested:

http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalChevyCavalier2.htm

http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalChevyCavalier2FDrSpk.htm

http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalChevyCavalier2RDeckSpk.htm

And here are some logged car audio installations on 95 and up Cavaliers, courtecy of SoundDomain.com:

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/damage

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/toorew2btrue

Now then, 2 new questions:

1. Right now, I'm running a Pioneer 7200 head unit, 200 watt 6x9's in the back, 45 watt 4x6's in the front, everything else factory. (wiring, etc.) The lights on my deck do dim with heave bass. (Not the actual LED display, but the lights behind the buttons/nob's.) A friend mentioned I might need a higher fuse in my fuse box, located on the inside corner of the dash when opening the driver's side front door. Any truth to that? How would I reduce, or hopefully eliminate, this blinking?

2. Brand names! My last 2 decks were both Pioneer, and I really love them, so do all my friends. They also seem to be some of the most expensive ones out there, so I'm assuming higher cost = higher quality. However, the new deck I plan on buying... I'm hoping for something that will play MP3 CD's. So far, I'm looking at a JVC deck and a Sony deck, both have product reviews linked in a previous post higher on this page. How would you compare the quality/reliability/sound from JVC decks to Sony decks to Pioneer decks? I'm really liking the Sony deck, because of the 52x4 watt of power, the D-Bass feature, and the fact that it's red, which would match my car better. So, any opinions there? (For a deck, I'm willing to let go of a maximum of $500 CDN, but there can be *rare* exceptions.)

Oh, and I suppose I won't be needing a "power cap," it seems you're all confident that my alt. should run the system with dual 200 watt amps just fine. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif (That leaves spare cash for a better deck, or more bass lights.)

 

[Trixter 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Tombo Now then, 2 new questions:

 

1. Right now, I'm running a Pioneer 7200 head unit, 200 watt 6x9's in the back, 45 watt 4x6's in the front, everything else factory. (wiring, etc.) The lights on my deck do dim with heave bass. (Not the actual LED display, but the lights behind the buttons/nob's.) A friend mentioned I might need a higher fuse in my fuse box, located on the inside corner of the dash when opening the driver's side front door. Any truth to that? How would I reduce, or hopefully eliminate, this blinking?]

 

Do not in crease the amp fuse for the radio! this could possibly lead to a disaster if a power surge would occur. (It would let it get to the deck.) Always go with the recomended amp fuse!!

 

2. Brand names! My last 2 decks were both Pioneer, and I really love them, so do all my friends. They also seem to be some of the most expensive ones out there, so I'm assuming higher cost = higher quality. However, the new deck I plan on buying... I'm hoping for something that will play MP3 CD's. So far, I'm looking at a JVC deck and a Sony deck, both have product reviews linked in a previous post higher on this page. How would you compare the quality/reliability/sound from JVC decks to Sony decks to Pioneer decks? I'm really liking the Sony deck, because of the 52x4 watt of power, the D-Bass feature, and the fact that it's red, which would match my car better. So, any opinions there? (For a deck, I'm willing to let go of a maximum of $500 CDN, but there can be *rare* exceptions.)]

 

A personally like my Sony (especially the DSO option.) Clarion also makes a nice MP3 player. I forgot the model # but it can be found at etronics.com. http://www.etronics.com/listproducts.asp?order=stk_price_a&prod_type=Car_Electronics%2FCar_Audio%2FCD_Receivers_with_MP3&manaf=Clarion&image1.x=10&image1.y=18

 

Don't go for the Sony because it is 52X4. If you use amps, you will not be using the deck's power.

 

As for the power, I would hook everything up and then decide if you need a cap or not.

Originally posted by Tombo

 

[Tombo 10+ year member]

When I originally bought the car, it was completely stock, as far as the fuse box and stereo were concerned. After replacing the deck the first time, and playing heavy bass, the lights on the deck *did* dim. I imagined that the deck wasn't powerful enough to handle that heavy of bass, even though it wasn't all that loud, and there was no distortion.

After installing the 7200, the deck still dimmed with heavy base, but only the buttons, not the LCD display.

So, in other words, as far as the fuse box is concerned, there have been no changes done to it. How can I prevent the deck from flashing with heavy bass?

As for using an amp for speakers... if I had a 200 watt amp, would it put out 50 watts per channel? Would that be the equivalent of a deck putting out 4x50 watts? Maybe it would be a better idea to run the speakers off the deck built-in amp, not an actual second amp? In other words, what advantages would I gain using an external amp over the internal amp built into the deck?

Sooooo... would that mean some decks would have a built-in amp for handling subs? Or is the advertised output, (ie. 4x45 watts power,) for use strictly only with speakers?

 

[Trixter 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Tombo When I originally bought the car, it was completely stock, as far as the fuse box and stereo were concerned. After replacing the deck the first time, and playing heavy bass, the lights on the deck *did* dim. I imagined that the deck wasn't powerful enough to handle that heavy of bass, even though it wasn't all that loud, and there was no distortion.

 

After installing the 7200, the deck still dimmed with heavy base, but only the buttons, not the LCD display.

 

So, in other words, as far as the fuse box is concerned, there have been no changes done to it. How can I prevent the deck from flashing with heavy bass?

 

As for using an amp for speakers... if I had a 200 watt amp, would it put out 50 watts per channel? Would that be the equivalent of a deck putting out 4x50 watts? Maybe it would be a better idea to run the speakers off the deck built-in amp, not an actual second amp? In other words, what advantages would I gain using an external amp over the internal amp built into the deck?

 

Sooooo... would that mean some decks would have a built-in amp for handling subs? Or is the advertised output, (ie. 4x45 watts power,) for use strictly only with speakers?

Did your interrior lights and headlights dim also? If it was only the deck, than I would tend to think that it is because you using the power from the deck and not necessarly taking power away from the electrical system of the car. If you hook up an amp, I bet this would end. As for the amp Q...if you get an amp that is 50X4 it will sound ten times better than the deck doing 50X4. The reason is because the amp has a lot better filtering capabilities and sends cleaner sound to you speakers. (If the deck could do this, it would be the size of an amp.)

The decks power can be used on any type of speaker.

(I tried to answer your Q's in the order you presented them.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif )