inline fuse length

[redfred18t 10+ year member]

i need help or i am gonna cry like a littel panzy *****... you have no idea how bad these 2 days have been for my setup.....

haha, crybaby

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

its there for safety. if the wire breaks and touches the frame the fuse will blow instead of your car starting on fire. if the fuse is to far from the battery and the wire breaks between the battery and the fuse it defeats the purpose of the fuse.

 

[chunky cumz 10+ year member]

haha, crybaby

oh yes!

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

anyone wanna take a swing at it?
I am guessing 3 ohms is 2100 watts rms

1.34 ohm would be about 2900 watts rms?

That amp is so drastically over-rated -- what's it matter?

Using the 150A fuses as a guideline you're looking at roughly 1800w optimally - so work backwards from there. Maybe 1350@2, so what - 1600 at 1.3?

And P~S is on it regarding fuse location. Technically the best location would be securely attatched directly to the batt (+) (not that it would ever happen). You want the fuse close enough to the battery that there is almost no possible way for that short length of unprotected wire to become accidentally shorted to any piece of the car's chassis. Just understand that the further away it is the more likely you'll be to have a problem. If you're confident that at 36" the wire is adequately protected then install it at 36".

BTW - electrons flow from (-) to (+), which makes sense considering they're negatively charged and similar charges repel, but current flows from (+) to (-).

 

[chunky cumz 10+ year member]

That amp is so drastically over-rated -- what's it matter?
Using the 150A fuses as a guideline you're looking at roughly 1800w optimally - so work backwards from there. Maybe 1350@2, so what - 1600 at 1.3?

ehhhh, dont hurt my feelings... i figure it is somewhat over rated but that drastic?

 

[chunky cumz 10+ year member]

the subs are 12" RE SE's so they can handle 600 RMS, so i guesstimated that even with the overrated stats taht it will be still be enough to power them but your figures are not makin it look good. we wil see, the amp gets here friday and the subs wil be around sooner or later.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

It could be a little more, but not much. Unless the designer just LIKES people to be replacing fuses every day.

Look at some amps of KNOWN quality (or at least known power) --

memphis mcd1500d for example, rated at 1500w optimally, has 150A fuses.

Hifonics 1608 which does 1500-1600 has 140A.

Kicker zx1500.1 -- 150A.

Mtx te1501D (1500w) 140A.

Pioneer D2000SPL (2000w rms) 240A -- the 1200w version has 160A.

The RFt1500-1bd (1500w rms) 150A.

You should see a pattern developing.

 

[chunky cumz 10+ year member]

i liked the pioneer one, that one actually seems underrated. i am gonna play with the power acoustik one and take some videos and such, see how preformance really is.