Remote wire/toggle switch/fuse tap

[r0b0n3cK]

wired the remote wire of my aftermarket amp to a toggle switch that I installed under my steering wheel. The wire that completes the connection of the toggle switch is connected to a fuse tap. I used a 2.5 fuse connected to the 10a wiper fuse and the wiper fuse pops every time. Without the fuse tap the wipers work as they should. Before the 2.5fuse, a 7.5 worked for about a week and then popped while the wiper fuse stayed intact. What am I not seeing?

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[Mitchell Fosgate III]

wired the remote wire of my aftermarket amp to a toggle switch that I installed under my steering wheel. The wire that completes the connection of the toggle switch is connected to a fuse tap. I used a 2.5 fuse connected to the 10a wiper fuse and the wiper fuse pops every time. Without the fuse tap the wipers work as they should. Before the 2.5fuse, a 7.5 worked for about a week and then popped while the wiper fuse stayed intact. What am I not seeing?

The maximum rating for the wire fuse is 10 amperes. It went over that mark. Two areas then drawing volts from, the remote wire to the amplifier, then RCAs which is the signals itself also requires volts going through it. It should go with color to color on the blue-white wire to power amplifier on the radio and factory side harness. You connected it to the amp instead all the way from the fuse box. And there's no power red wire then? Larger power wire used from the battery to the amp, and a ground wire from the amp to the ground, should be enough power. Did you try that first or just hooked up the remote wire like that? How to check for ampere ratings? set up the + and - leads as a series connection to any part of the loop going into the amplifier. If you need to buy more amplifier cable, then buy more amplifier cable to check that ampere going through it. Seeing the total ampere going into the amp. Volts, is checked by measuring it at the ISO connections. Place the probes in the slots. + and - together.​

 

[r0b0n3cK]

The maximum rating for the wire fuse is 10 amperes. It went over that mark. Two areas then drawing volts from, the remote wire to the amplifier, then RCAs which is the signals itself also requires volts going through it. It should go with color to color on the blue-white wire to power amplifier on the radio and factory side harness. You connected it to the amp instead all the way from the fuse box. And there's no power red wire then? Larger power wire used from the battery to the amp, and a ground wire from the amp to the ground, should be enough power. Did you try that first or just hooked up the remote wire like that? How to check for ampere ratings? set up the + and - leads as a series connection to any part of the loop going into the amplifier. If you need to buy more amplifier cable, then buy more amplifier cable to check that ampere going through it. Seeing the total ampere going into the amp. Volts, is checked by measuring it at the ISO connections. Place the probes in the slots. + and - together.​

The red power wire is where I am currently getting the power to my amp from. I plug in and unplug every time I go somewhere. I'm fairly new to the whole wiring process but I feel I have a decent understanding of how it works, but couldn't figure out which wire coming from the factory head unit was the remote (every wire is grey. Courtesy of previous owner) I am currently powering my amp by piggybacking off of the red power cable to the remote terminal. I plug in and unplug every time I go somewhere. Because I couldn't figure out which wire was the remote wire, I figured a toggle switch and a fuse tap to bypass the head unit would elevate that problem. I'd rather learn something completely new (fuses) instead of trying to find which wire should be what color when eventually I'll buy a new head unit. Until then, would I be able to connect that fuse tap to a spare slot and if so, does it matter which one since I have it connected to the toggle switch anyway? I still have much to learn.. amperage/voltage/wire gauges etc...

 

[Blackout67]

The red power wire is where I am currently getting the power to my amp from. I plug in and unplug every time I go somewhere. I'm fairly new to the whole wiring process but I feel I have a decent understanding of how it works, but couldn't figure out which wire coming from the factory head unit was the remote (every wire is grey. Courtesy of previous owner) I am currently powering my amp by piggybacking off of the red power cable to the remote terminal. I plug in and unplug every time I go somewhere. Because I couldn't figure out which wire was the remote wire, I figured a toggle switch and a fuse tap to bypass the head unit would elevate that problem. I'd rather learn something completely new (fuses) instead of trying to find which wire should be what color when eventually I'll buy a new head unit. Until then, would I be able to connect that fuse tap to a spare slot and if so, does it matter which one since I have it connected to the toggle switch anyway? I still have much to learn.. amperage/voltage/wire gauges etc...

I wouldn't take any advice from Mitchell. Note what it says around his name, he consistently give wrong advise. Don't trust him

Find the model of the headunit and search for the manual off the Internet. You can find which wire is the remote, cut off the previous owners wiring job and put in your own and run it back to the amp. Every headunit I've used has had the remote wire as blue with a white stripe. For the most part wiring harnesses between share the same colouring scheme to match up with the aftermath adapter that runs to the factory wiring

Essentially your remote wire acts as a switched power source. If you don't feel like messing with your current one cause you will be getting a newer one soon, find a switched power circuit in your fuse box. Most common one is your ignition switch. Some cars also have unused circuits without a fuse in it. You can also use that. You can look up the fuse diagram for your car to find out which ones are constant or switched. You can also use a multimeter as well. Constant power sources should be hot always and switched sources only are hot when the car is on or the key is set to accessory

 

[r0b0n3cK]

I wouldn't take any advice from Mitchell. Note what it says around his name, he consistently give wrong advise. Don't trust him

Find the model of the headunit and search for the manual off the Internet. You can find which wire is the remote, cut off the previous owners wiring job and put in your own and run it back to the amp. Every headunit I've used has had the remote wire as blue with a white stripe. For the most part wiring harnesses between share the same colouring scheme to match up with the aftermath adapter that runs to the factory wiring

Essentially your remote wire acts as a switched power source. If you don't feel like messing with your current one cause you will be getting a newer one soon, find a switched power circuit in your fuse box. Most common one is your ignition switch. Some cars also have unused circuits without a fuse in it. You can also use that. You can look up the fuse diagram for your car to find out which ones are constant or switched. You can also use a multimeter as well. Constant power sources should be hot always and switched sources only are hot when the car is on or the key is set to accessory

I'd like to keep the toggle switch active so as to not disturb neighbors. Do I need to use a particular open circuit or can I use any that are open?

 

[Blackout67]

I'd like to keep the toggle switch active so as to not disturb neighbors. Do I need to use a particular open circuit or can I use any that are open?

You shouldn't need the power button once you switch to a switched ignition source. The reason you need that button now is cause the wire you stepped from the headunit that's red is a constant power wire. Meaning it's always sending power to keep the amp turned on. Switched sources eliminates that. Basically it will only turn on when you turn the car on. No waking up the neighbors unless you leave it on an active radio station with the volume cranked.

As for which ones you can use, I'm not sure. I don't know what make/model you driver. Go on Google and type in "[Make/model/year] fuse diagram" it'll give you a list of the fuses and what they are used for. Usually they will also tell you if it's a switched source too. But if it doesnt you'd just have to go out with multi meter and test for yourself. It's pretty easy to do

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

wired the remote wire of my aftermarket amp to a toggle switch that I installed under my steering wheel. The wire that completes the connection of the toggle switch is connected to a fuse tap. I used a 2.5 fuse connected to the 10a wiper fuse and the wiper fuse pops every time. Without the fuse tap the wipers work as they should. Before the 2.5fuse, a 7.5 worked for about a week and then popped while the wiper fuse stayed intact. What am I not seeing?

I would have used a power accessory inside my car, that was controlled by the accessory wiring from the steering column. If you have a power antenna, that would have been my first option. Another option would be to use the wiring for the power outlet, if it is on when the car is on and off when the car is off. Some are on constantly. If that is your situation, then you can use your toggle switch as the turn on and off switch.