This is kind of long, so I really appreciate it if you try to help me out.
The head unit is about 3 yrs old, its a pioneer 4600MP but still plays my mp3 discs fine (or did)
I had my car stereo installed about a year ago (last summer, all done professionally except what I did alone which was the head unit adapter (or just head unit) installation) and havnt really touched it since. Today I took the plastic cover that surrounds my head unit and CD case holder (2 slots) because the wiring that was connnected to the red LED that blinked when my alarm was armed was disconnected (I took the plastic cover off a few months ago to reposition it or something which tore the two apart (1 inch of blue/red coming from LED and then the rest of the wiring going to the Alarm unit), which were crappily connected with some tape)
The idiots that installed my pyhton alarm at CC made the wiring too SHORT so I had to add extra wiring so that I can take the cover off without having to separate the wire apart, which is the way they installed it (this is all for the blinking LED).
Okay so in order to rewire that, I had to take my head unit out as well, and as I was removing it out of the hole, all of my speakers would pop (includng my sub, loud and deep). Turns out 4 of the wires coming out of the wiring adapter out of a billion (1 white, 1 white w/ black stripe, 2 grey) were just cut and hanging with no heatsink or tape on them. So they touched the metal under my dash a couple times and I got the pop a few times before I finally got my head unit out.
Also turns out that the head unit was not properly grounded, the ground wire coming out of the back of it (out of the plug) was grounded to the bracket that held the head unit and CD case holder together (the two metal brackets). So I guess the head unit was grounded to ITSELF, so that when I removed it, there was NO ground.
SETUP: I have a Kicker 750 watt amp which powers my 10" Kicker solo baric L5 sub, my two [mid] 5.25" door speakers, and my two tweeters in my dash (all 4 are apart of a Kicker RS component setup). ( I drive a 2 door sports car). The two 6x9's behind my seat are still factory and plugged in, but are powered by my head unit.
Now, when I turn my key to "on" the radio sounds great. When I start my engine the speakers let out a high pitched squeal, and when I rev my engine (make the RPM's rise), the sound will raise and drop with it simultaneously. It's either alternator noise or ignition noise....
My dad owns an auto repair shop, this happened there and we ground tested the "Radio" fuse under my dash to see if it is hot when the key is off (or no key at all), and like it should be, there is nothing unless it is ON or the engine is running.
When I removed my head unit and all this popping went on, my key was OUT of the ignition (NOTHING BAD SHOULD HAVE WENT WRONG). Therefore, my amp must be hot ALL THE TIME? I looked inside my head unit when there was no key in the ignition, and there was a little red glowing light. I dont think the head unit is hot unless the key is on, though (ie. when key is ON then my head unit turns on and plays the CD)
You may ask why I didnt disconnect my neg battery cable like I should have, well, it resets my ECU which in my car isnt a good idea (ive had voltage problems before with different batteries and such when resetting it) , and also my car alarm, it would go off and I have no idea how to program it if I had to..
Either my head unit or my amp is blown? I'm not sure, my amp is grounded properly to one of the bolts that hold the rear seat down (2 door w/ insurance seats) so hopefully the amp is fine. None of the speakers are blown, they all play good when engine is off like I said.
Any suggestions I would greatly appreciate... isnt there some kind of signal canceller that I could add to the red wire? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
The head unit is about 3 yrs old, its a pioneer 4600MP but still plays my mp3 discs fine (or did)
I had my car stereo installed about a year ago (last summer, all done professionally except what I did alone which was the head unit adapter (or just head unit) installation) and havnt really touched it since. Today I took the plastic cover that surrounds my head unit and CD case holder (2 slots) because the wiring that was connnected to the red LED that blinked when my alarm was armed was disconnected (I took the plastic cover off a few months ago to reposition it or something which tore the two apart (1 inch of blue/red coming from LED and then the rest of the wiring going to the Alarm unit), which were crappily connected with some tape)
The idiots that installed my pyhton alarm at CC made the wiring too SHORT so I had to add extra wiring so that I can take the cover off without having to separate the wire apart, which is the way they installed it (this is all for the blinking LED).
Okay so in order to rewire that, I had to take my head unit out as well, and as I was removing it out of the hole, all of my speakers would pop (includng my sub, loud and deep). Turns out 4 of the wires coming out of the wiring adapter out of a billion (1 white, 1 white w/ black stripe, 2 grey) were just cut and hanging with no heatsink or tape on them. So they touched the metal under my dash a couple times and I got the pop a few times before I finally got my head unit out.
Also turns out that the head unit was not properly grounded, the ground wire coming out of the back of it (out of the plug) was grounded to the bracket that held the head unit and CD case holder together (the two metal brackets). So I guess the head unit was grounded to ITSELF, so that when I removed it, there was NO ground.
SETUP: I have a Kicker 750 watt amp which powers my 10" Kicker solo baric L5 sub, my two [mid] 5.25" door speakers, and my two tweeters in my dash (all 4 are apart of a Kicker RS component setup). ( I drive a 2 door sports car). The two 6x9's behind my seat are still factory and plugged in, but are powered by my head unit.
Now, when I turn my key to "on" the radio sounds great. When I start my engine the speakers let out a high pitched squeal, and when I rev my engine (make the RPM's rise), the sound will raise and drop with it simultaneously. It's either alternator noise or ignition noise....
My dad owns an auto repair shop, this happened there and we ground tested the "Radio" fuse under my dash to see if it is hot when the key is off (or no key at all), and like it should be, there is nothing unless it is ON or the engine is running.
When I removed my head unit and all this popping went on, my key was OUT of the ignition (NOTHING BAD SHOULD HAVE WENT WRONG). Therefore, my amp must be hot ALL THE TIME? I looked inside my head unit when there was no key in the ignition, and there was a little red glowing light. I dont think the head unit is hot unless the key is on, though (ie. when key is ON then my head unit turns on and plays the CD)
You may ask why I didnt disconnect my neg battery cable like I should have, well, it resets my ECU which in my car isnt a good idea (ive had voltage problems before with different batteries and such when resetting it) , and also my car alarm, it would go off and I have no idea how to program it if I had to..
Either my head unit or my amp is blown? I'm not sure, my amp is grounded properly to one of the bolts that hold the rear seat down (2 door w/ insurance seats) so hopefully the amp is fine. None of the speakers are blown, they all play good when engine is off like I said.
Any suggestions I would greatly appreciate... isnt there some kind of signal canceller that I could add to the red wire? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif