how easy is it to get past a 2 way alarm?

[RFCV 10+ year member]

Oh, now it's voltage sensing too? Current and voltage are 2 different things. Typically one thinks of current sensing alarms as the "one wire hookups" measuring sudden voltage drop and voltage sensing as positive triggers from any source providing 5+VDC.

You are correct. I was meaning current sensing as a voltage drop.

BTW, current sensing is also a feature that can be activated on most non "1 wire hookup alarms".

Current sensing is proven to not be reliable as any high performance battery will not even blink at a dome light being activated.

And here I thought you were going to make some sense & I then read this statement above. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/ponder.gif.ec2527b23f1d287b60dcbba54f95edba.gif

True, current sensing is not as a reliable method of detection as a pinswitch connected directly to the alarm instant trigger on the control module, but to say "any high performance battery will not even blink at a dome light being activated" is wrong. A good battery (let alone a high performance one or special car audio battery) will notice the -.6 voltage drop when the interior lights come on.

 

[thejoker989 10+ year member]

Or is locked or not (for Paddy). Better locked though, especially in this case //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
BTW, this is current (voltage) sensing at work! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

No it isn't. And stop winking at me. My alarm does not have current sensing. It monitors the volatge in the domelight circuit and when the handle is lifted the domelight circuit has +12V. +12V Because the lights are LIT. Its not a classic example, and not even an example at all //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[thejoker989 10+ year member]

You are correct. I was meaning current sensing as a voltage drop.
BTW, current sensing is also a feature that can be activated on most non "1 wire hookup alarms".

And here I thought you were going to make some sense & I then read this statement above. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/ponder.gif.ec2527b23f1d287b60dcbba54f95edba.gif

True, current sensing is not as a reliable method of detection as a pinswitch connected directly to the alarm instant trigger on the control module, but to say "any high performance battery will not even blink at a dome light being activated" is wrong. A good battery (let alone a high performance one or special car audio battery) will notice the -.6 voltage drop when the interior lights come on.

Current sensing is not very reliable and that is why you do not see it in a lot of alarms. I would much rather tag every wire that would alert a break in, than relying on my alarm picking up a smal drop in voltage. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Paddy McTaint 10+ year member]

Most current sensing alarms won't detect a .6 voltage drop. Hell, there are some ghetto multimeters that won't even pick that up. I'm talking +1V difference. That's usually what it takes to get some alarms to trigger their current sensing capabilities.

And optima's won't drop .6v from a single dome light. Some cars have multiple lights inside in doors and such and yes, that will pull enough juice to warrant a .6-1v drop.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[RFCV 10+ year member]

No it isn't. My alarm does not have current sensing. It monitors the voltage in the domelight circuit and when the handle is lifted the domelight circuit has +12V. +12V Because the lights are LIT. It's not a classic example, and not even an example at all.

Let me put this 'current sensing' issue at rest (hopefully).

Current sensing:

"The ability to detect a change in the draw in a electrical system, usually the draw associated with turning on the domelight. This allows monitoring of the doors without finding the pin switch wire, as current sense technology can be applied through the power wire of the alarm. Not used in high-end systems, as it is not as foolproof as hardwiring to the pin switch."

Security Sense mag/1996.

Lifting up on the door handle with the interior lights triggering IS a classic example of current sensing.

Case in Point: I have installed self-contained '1 wire hookup alarms' for others on a tight budget. There is only 2 methods of detection with these alarms. (1) Dual stage shock sensor (2) current sensing.

Now, I have lifted the door handle thus causing the interior light to be "LIT" & guess what? The alarm sounds! Now I ask: what can it be? The answer is: current sensing. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/idea.gif.5acb6a39a9b92425414c316dda202bad.gif

*The alarm already has +12v applied, so the means of detection by current sensing is the fluctuation of voltage drop when the lights are triggered.*

Basically this is the bottom line:

If the alarm is relying on the interior lights to activate to cause a alarm condition, then it is current sensing. On the other hand, if you have hardwired your existing door pinswitch into the appropriate (+ or -) trigger input wire on the control module, then you do not have current sensing.

 

[RFCV 10+ year member]

Most current sensing alarms won't detect a .6 voltage drop. Hell, there are some ghetto multimeters that won't even pick that up. I'm talking +1V difference. That's usually what it takes to get some alarms to trigger their current sensing capabilities.
And optima's won't drop .6v from a single dome light. Some cars have multiple lights inside in doors and such and yes, that will pull enough juice to warrant a .6-1v drop.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

I got that .6v drop for current sensing from my own alarm install manual.