how easy is it to get past a 2 way alarm?

[RFCV 10+ year member]

I tried to tell ya. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

That was because the dome light (current sensing) triggered when the punk lifted up on the handle. In a post above, you stated "current sensing is for morons" to which I replied back that current sensing is useful for electrical system tampering which this is a classic example of. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Let me further address this "just door & other openings being alarmed with NO other alarm sensing protection" idea...

If a thief really wants in, he can just break the window & shave the outer glass fragments clean to crawl through it WITHOUT opening the doors. This is especially true if you have announced the presence of a alarm with the tell tale flashing LED. Case in Point: If he breaks the window & the alarm does not respond with the LED flashing, he most likely can figure out either 1 of 2 things. Either it is a fake LED or just the hard entrances are alarmed with no shock. Hence if he is a diehard, just crawl through the window & if there is another punk with him, hand off the merchandise to him.

Another thing to consider is this: What if the alarm is triggered if the doors are opened & you are not aware of it. The alarm triggering scares the punk(s) away for the moment, but they do not close the doors to rearm them & leave them open. They (or any other punk) then can come back to clean the car out or steal the entire thing without any other alarm sensor to alarm to stop them.

And what about vandalism. Without any kind of shock or other alarm sensor than just the hard entrances being alarmed, there will be no alarm activation to scare the vandals away. By vandals I mean punk(s) that just want to cause external harm without actually taking anything.

Also, with no other alarm sensor protection than just the hard entrances alarmed, the punk(s) can easily take the whole car to boot!

*The main point I am making with all this is this:

Without any alarm sensors other than just alarming the hard entrances (doors, hood, hatch/trunk) you are really limiting the proper alarm protection for your vehicle in many ways.

 

[realrapent 10+ year member]

I just boought a compustar alarm system with the lcd remote.

PLUS MY BRAIN AND BACK UP BATTERIES HIDDEN IN THE TRUNK//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

I also have dual shock and a motion proximity sensor.

PLUS A BOGUS ALARM SIREN with fake wires NEAR THE RADIATOR //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

now i just need two piezo and i'll be good.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[UpNCommin 10+ year member]

well that antenna depends on what make/ model the unit is... i mount that " transmitter ant" on the front windshield just below the rear view miror to asure the best reseption possiable. due to the amount of metal there is in the windshield and the roof...now my omega 2 way on my car has the ant, L.E.D. and valet button all in one.. i like that allot!!!

even tho you might not want to let someone know you have a alarm on the vehicle it's allot better to show it off and not have anyone mess with ur car do to the advertisment, ie: led, this car is protected by... stickers ect....

no advertisment for a alarm will make the rookie's think they can bust a window, grab and go....

id rather have someone notice my alarm, then not notice it, brake a window and run!!! and im left with a broken window.. but still they didnt take anything....

also i have a mercury tilt sensor in my car so that if anyone try's to jack it, take my wheels' ( if i had some) or try to tow my car it will set the alarm of due to a tilt or movment in the mercury sensor..

this is ur best bet!!

the brain!!! hide it.. most of allllllll alarms are installed under drivers dash. yes it's easy for the installer's to install it there... but it's not the best spot.. and can be found in a heart beat!!!

hide the brain, up high, or even on pass side of car.

siren, mount it inside a fender if you can with no wire's showing even a back up siren if possiable.

back up batteries ive never installed one on both my vehicles... maybe because my car's arnt worth takeing. car jacking and being stripped of, but if you have a bmw. ect i would seggest one.

STARTER KILL!!!!

and that's all i can think of right now.

fellow installers feal free to add...

Dont forget the glass sensor //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Paddy McTaint 10+ year member]

That was because the dome light (current sensing) triggered when the punk lifted up on the handle. In a post above, you stated "current sensing is for morons" to which I replied back that current sensing is useful for electrical system tampering which this is a classic example of. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif



QUOTE]

And for all these years I thought current sensing alarms monitored voltage drop and not a positive trigger from a dome light. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[thejoker989 10+ year member]

That was because the dome light (current sensing) triggered when the punk lifted up on the handle. In a post above, you stated "current sensing is for morons" to which I replied back that current sensing is useful for electrical system tampering which this is a classic example of. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Im not quite sure what you mean by current sensing, but if you're implying that the alarm activated because it saw current flowing thru the main power wire, that is not the case. It triggered because my alarms door trigger input is connected directly to my dome light circuit, so it will trigger both on attempted driver door open, and if any other door gets fully open.

dome light (current sensing)?

I would say its voltage sensing, as that is what triggers the alarm. That wire could have tons of current flowing at milivolts but it wouldn't trigger the alarm, but as soon as any current flows at +12V it triggers.
Edit: didnt read the post above mine, but hopefully now that two people have chimed in on what current sensing is, he'll get the idea.

 

[RFCV 10+ year member]

That was because the dome light (current sensing) triggered when the punk lifted up on the handle. In a post above, you stated "current sensing is for morons" to which I replied back that current sensing is useful for electrical system tampering which this is a classic example of. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

And for all these years I thought current sensing alarms monitored voltage drop and not a positive trigger from a dome light. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Current sensing does monitor voltage drop from the car's electrical system btw of the battery. As I stated above, the door handle being lifted & the dome (courtesy) light coming on is a classic example. In some vehicles when the door handle is lifted (even with the doors locked) the light activates & if current sensing is enabled will also activate the alarm. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[RFCV 10+ year member]

Edit: Didn't read the post above mine, but hopefully now that two people have chimed in on what current sensing is, he'll get the idea.

Current (voltage) sensing is another method of using the vehicle's electrical system powered by the battery to cause alarm if a interior light is activated or the electrical system is tampered with. It is a method used instead of a wired pin switch from the protected entrance to the control module to activated the alarm.

 

[RFCV 10+ year member]

Gotta love the GM's that trigger the domelight when the handle is pulled, regardless of if the door opens or not.

Or is locked or not (for Paddy). Better locked though, especially in this case //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

BTW, this is current (voltage) sensing at work! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

just curious, is there a way that a transmitter can be hidden in a car so you can track it if it is stolen? Not so the police can track it, but personally see exactly where your car is?

 

[RFCV 10+ year member]

Just curious. Is there a way that a transmitter can be hidden in a car so you can track it if it is stolen? Not so the police can track it, but personally see exactly where your car is?

http://cgi-ebay.com/WIRELESS-GPS-GSM-CAR-ALARM-SYSTEM-IMMOBILISE-REMOTE_WOQQitemZ120157105274QQihZOO2QQcategoryZ31250QQrdZ1QQrsPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

thats the thing...i know they will try, i just want to know when they try.
but yea, anything that gives me a somewhat of chance to get to the car before anything can happen is what im looking for. and thats why im interested in the 2 ways especially with the rolling code since they might be the toughest to get by

I dont know the price of it, but I would get this one.

http://newsblaze.com/story/2007101606051000022.mwir/newsblaze/AUTOMOBI/Auto.html

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

This is a little off the path but,If you have the Big 3 done in your car and say a theif cuts your ground wire , wouldn`t your alarm still work becuase of the extra ground wire on the Big3? this is my thinking that it would becuase the extra ground wire acts as a back up ground wire.

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

alarm noobs

 

[Paddy McTaint 10+ year member]

BTW, this is current (voltage) sensing at work! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Oh, now it's voltage sensing too? Current and voltage are 2 different things. Typically one thinks of current sensing alarms as the "one wire hookups" measuring sudden voltage drop and voltage sensing as positive triggers from any source providing 5+vdc. Current sensing is proven to not be reilable as any high performance battery will not even blink at a dome light being activated.

We're all on the same page, just reading different paragraphs...

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

I'm going to go check the amount of amperage my sirens pull, then fuse each run right after it splits off the brain. It occured to me the other day that you could probably just ground the power wire for a siren and short out the entire brain, killing all other sirens. Is this common practice?