how easy is it to get past a 2 way alarm?

yea i understand about the "advertising" thing. i just had the thought that if you advertise it they might know exactly what to get in order to by pass it...but didn't really see it from the perspective deterring a somewhat less "talented" thief if you will

 
All the DEI models use code hopping. I have a Viper 5900 and love the thing. It does a legit 5000 ft of range and more importantly, from my experience, seems to be less bothered by interference. I have several clients that work in hospitals and what not around a variety of machines that should kill their signal strength and so far I havent had anyone claim less than 4000 ft. Battery back up is essencial as well as a well hidden brain. In my car the alarm brain is behind one of my rear panels in the same location as one of my extra stereo batteries. The only component or wire installed in my vehicle under the drivers side of the dash is the satalite relay pack that is used to start the car, everything else is ran else where.

 
My fav brain install (and probably most evil) was one time when we hid it under the car's center console. If the thief could find that, they deserve to win.

Yeah, so a guy was like i dont need 2-way i have lo-jack, So im like yeah but most people can find lo-jack.

Hes like no they hide it so nobody can find it....

Fast forward 10 mins with me looking in his kick panel i see wire tapped ign and 12v. Into a black duck-taped box that reads something stupid then on the back the lo jack company..... i then laughed and went on with my business.

 
As far as 2ways go, I know if the thief unhooks or splits or cuts the power to the brain the 2way remote will ONLY show that the car isnt responding, it will not show that there is something wrong, and most alarm brains can be deactivated from the bottom of the car....

I also heard REGAURDLESS of a remote or an alarm all alarms are set by the gov. to deactivate if lifted to a certain degree ie. if your getting towed it will shut off.

So most car thieves have start just TOWING cars instead of breaking in. Towing them to a safe location and then just simply unhooking the alarm, jiming the lock and getting what they want. The entire car the system what ever, then they tow the car some where else and dump it or chop shop...

SO IMO BEST SECURITY IS!

1. LOCKING THE DOORS to deter optimistic thieves

2. INSURANCE put insurance on that shit so even if a tornado throws your car 100yards your good. =P

 
I'd say do the install yourself if you feel comfortable doing it.

Use a backup battery for sure (for alarm brain + sirens) and put a couple of piezo mini sirens

http://cgi.ebay.com/CAR-ALARM-LOUD-MINI-PIEZO-SIREN-VIPER-CLIFFORD-DEI-513T_W0QQitemZ200146724190QQihZ010QQcategoryZ60203QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

inside the car bolted under the dash.

Run a separate battery backup for the sirens inside and for your under hood siren use one with a built in battery backup also. Like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/CLIFFORD-CAR-ALARM-BATTERY-BACKUP-BACKUP-SIREN-DEI-5

15R_W0QQitemZ150156933905QQihZ005QQcategoryZ60203QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I'd also connect to the alarm a couple of StreetGlow red and blue strobe lights in the front dash/windshield and power them from the same battery backup as the piezo's inside the car.

Loud as hell, bright flashing and painfully loud inside the car also!

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
put a siren next to your brain and next to your stuff in your trunk. Thats what I'm doing.

Also, weird *** screws. Triangles, One-Ways, Square, Hex, Allen.

I used them all for my one sub and my amp.

 
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