MrSlaybury
Junior Member
View attachment 26554974Hi everyone. Although I've used this forum for years, this is the first time I've ever posted. I've been messing with car audio for 10+ years, but ironically this was my first Bose integration.
Thanks in advance for reading, and I have tried to be as detailed as possible in my description; that's why the post is so long.
The setup:
05 Maxima Bose Non-Nav
LOC (2 channel) with L/R level adjustments and a wired adjustment knob up front.
-LOC levels are set at max and knob is usually at 3/4.
1 Alpine MRP-500 - 500 RMS at 2ohm
1 Audiobahn AW1206Q 1100 RMS, 2 ohm load
6 Gauge power, 4 gauge ground, unfortunately "widdled" down to fit the MRP.
USASpec BT45, all testing tried through Bluetooth, Aux Cord, and CD player. Consistent results (which says a ton about USASpec's product!)
I know that I will never have as loud and clean of a signal that an aftermarket head unit will give me, but I still feel like my sub should hit harder. I followed the proper formulas and I set my gain using a DMM and proper tone with volume at 3/4 of the max (23) to shoot for 31.62v, putting my amp's gain around halfway (can't remember the voltage off the top of my head sorry). Using a proper test tone, the voltage at the RCA is reading 1.4 volts. I know a proper set up should be at least 2v.
What I'm wondering is if my wiring is 100% accurate. I spent hours looking over the wiring diagram for my vehicle, and I was almost positive I have everything as perfect as I can get it, but something doesn't seem right to me. The Bose sub wiring goes into the REGULAR Bose amp, then out to the dedicated sub amp mounted under one of the subs.
I tapped my LOC into what I believe is the Pre-Regular-amp wiring, coming directly from the head unit, and all bass notes mimmic the stock sub's identically.
I will also note that my head unit's "bass" adjustment affects my sub's volume also. Previously, I had an older Type R and what I did was instead of setting the gain based on my head unit's maximum volume, I set it based on my own max listening volume (22), so I set the volume at 16. This put my gain way higher, a smudge over 3/4...which is pretty high IMO. I also added just a little bit of the bass boost option on the amp for a little more oomph. Well, about a month after running this setup, running my head unit's bass level at 3 out of 5, with the volume no louder than 18-20...you can guess what happens next.
I smoked my Type R //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif RIP
Got the Audiobahn super cheap for a temporary fix.
I immediately rewired my amp, cleaned my battery terminals, new connections everywhere, and added 10 gauge speaker wire with the new setup. Now, I'm trying to do anything I can do (on a crazy low budget) to insure my amp is getting the cleanest, best signal possible, while maximizing BOOM.
My future plan is a new gen type r 12 with a MRX-110, but I'm a ways off from that setup.
My main questions:
If I wired the LOC to the post-Bose amp signal, how will that impact the voltage to the RCA's? What happens when you take a line level signal and run it through a LOC?
Am I just on point with my wiring, and the stock system is only capable of delivering 1.4v?
Is there a better way to wire the LOC?
I'm about to go get in my trunk for a couple hours and try to do some more voltage tests. I'd like to know a bit more about what my Bose system is sending for a signal. Out of all the countless hours and weeks I spent researching how to tap into the Bose system, I really didn't find any information that specifically led to the wiring I have now. Kinda just got the wiring diagrams and went for it.
If you made it this far...thank you. There's a lot of information, but I really would appreciate any tips anyone would have to give, even if it's something else other than my questions.
I know I wrote a book, but more detail means less follow up questions, right? Maybe? lol Thank you!
Edit: I studied the wiring diagram again and forgot that there is no dedicated "sub" signal sent from the head unit. So, where I tapped the LOC was the dedicated Sub Out signal coming from the Bose amp. Now I'm wondering what would happen if I tapped the signal coming from the Bose sub amp. Probably would result in a dirtier signal. Perhaps I can wire RCAs directly into those wires. Hmmm
Thanks in advance for reading, and I have tried to be as detailed as possible in my description; that's why the post is so long.
The setup:
05 Maxima Bose Non-Nav
LOC (2 channel) with L/R level adjustments and a wired adjustment knob up front.
-LOC levels are set at max and knob is usually at 3/4.
1 Alpine MRP-500 - 500 RMS at 2ohm
1 Audiobahn AW1206Q 1100 RMS, 2 ohm load
6 Gauge power, 4 gauge ground, unfortunately "widdled" down to fit the MRP.
USASpec BT45, all testing tried through Bluetooth, Aux Cord, and CD player. Consistent results (which says a ton about USASpec's product!)
I know that I will never have as loud and clean of a signal that an aftermarket head unit will give me, but I still feel like my sub should hit harder. I followed the proper formulas and I set my gain using a DMM and proper tone with volume at 3/4 of the max (23) to shoot for 31.62v, putting my amp's gain around halfway (can't remember the voltage off the top of my head sorry). Using a proper test tone, the voltage at the RCA is reading 1.4 volts. I know a proper set up should be at least 2v.
What I'm wondering is if my wiring is 100% accurate. I spent hours looking over the wiring diagram for my vehicle, and I was almost positive I have everything as perfect as I can get it, but something doesn't seem right to me. The Bose sub wiring goes into the REGULAR Bose amp, then out to the dedicated sub amp mounted under one of the subs.
I tapped my LOC into what I believe is the Pre-Regular-amp wiring, coming directly from the head unit, and all bass notes mimmic the stock sub's identically.
I will also note that my head unit's "bass" adjustment affects my sub's volume also. Previously, I had an older Type R and what I did was instead of setting the gain based on my head unit's maximum volume, I set it based on my own max listening volume (22), so I set the volume at 16. This put my gain way higher, a smudge over 3/4...which is pretty high IMO. I also added just a little bit of the bass boost option on the amp for a little more oomph. Well, about a month after running this setup, running my head unit's bass level at 3 out of 5, with the volume no louder than 18-20...you can guess what happens next.
I smoked my Type R //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif RIP
Got the Audiobahn super cheap for a temporary fix.
I immediately rewired my amp, cleaned my battery terminals, new connections everywhere, and added 10 gauge speaker wire with the new setup. Now, I'm trying to do anything I can do (on a crazy low budget) to insure my amp is getting the cleanest, best signal possible, while maximizing BOOM.
My future plan is a new gen type r 12 with a MRX-110, but I'm a ways off from that setup.
My main questions:
If I wired the LOC to the post-Bose amp signal, how will that impact the voltage to the RCA's? What happens when you take a line level signal and run it through a LOC?
Am I just on point with my wiring, and the stock system is only capable of delivering 1.4v?
Is there a better way to wire the LOC?
I'm about to go get in my trunk for a couple hours and try to do some more voltage tests. I'd like to know a bit more about what my Bose system is sending for a signal. Out of all the countless hours and weeks I spent researching how to tap into the Bose system, I really didn't find any information that specifically led to the wiring I have now. Kinda just got the wiring diagrams and went for it.
If you made it this far...thank you. There's a lot of information, but I really would appreciate any tips anyone would have to give, even if it's something else other than my questions.
I know I wrote a book, but more detail means less follow up questions, right? Maybe? lol Thank you!
Edit: I studied the wiring diagram again and forgot that there is no dedicated "sub" signal sent from the head unit. So, where I tapped the LOC was the dedicated Sub Out signal coming from the Bose amp. Now I'm wondering what would happen if I tapped the signal coming from the Bose sub amp. Probably would result in a dirtier signal. Perhaps I can wire RCAs directly into those wires. Hmmm
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