Help me shake this Volvo

n3wt
10+ year member

Junior Member
Hey guys I'm working with a 99 Volvo s70. Just doing a sub and amp in the trunk but I want to do it right. My last setup I spent way too much on (Mazda b2300 xcab, 2x RF 800a2's, 2 eclipse ti12's, alternator, etc ) and when it got stolen I left the car audio game for a while but now I'm back.

So my budget is $800 for a reinforced box I will build out of MDF, wires, one big sub, and one mono amp to push it. I guess I will use a line level converter because I don't want to change the factory head unit as it will attract filthy thieves. I am willing to modify the trunk/back seat but I was just thinking of a rear firing 13w6v2 in a sealed box and a fosgate 1000w amp. But I heard that after best buy picked up Rockford Fosgate the quality has gone downhill.

Anyway tell me what you would do with $800 and an 8cu ft trunk.

 
I'm liking the looks of that DC Level 4 15 or maybe even the lvl4 18, its not like I will be playing any death metal. But I did have 2 15s in a truck before and it just didn't sound as good inside the vehicle as it did outside.

 
I'm liking the looks of that DC Level 4 15 or maybe even the lvl4 18, its not like I will be playing any death metal. But I did have 2 15s in a truck before and it just didn't sound as good inside the vehicle as it did outside.
its all in the enclosure man. That level 4 is secks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif If youd like it to handle a bit more power you can get level 5 coils in her...

 
I think I'll go with the AP10001D. Are DC subs sold anywhere online or do I have to contact a dealer for mailorder.. there's none anywhere near me.

I might go with a sundown z-15 but 1500w is getting a bit close to what my stock alternator puts out.

 
The max I can do is 8.3 cu ft (39"x17x22) because I still want to get my spare tire out from the bottom of the trunk. But for one sub that is plenty, I mean I could have two but then my budget comes in. I have always done ported in the past but the local audio store has been trying to tell me that sealed is better when it's in the trunk.. I was dreaming up ways of porting through the rear deck but I know nothing about how subs perform in trunks except that I will probably be investing in a lot of dynamat.

 
im not sure what shop said sealed is better for a trunk, but to me it sounds like they dont really know what they are doing. one thing you can do is if there are speakers in the rear deck just pull them and run a nice front stage, that will give you some space for the sound to come through and with a good amped comp set up front you will likely not miss them any.

 
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n3wt

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