HELP!!!! JL 10w3v3 or 10w6v2

[shortround8484]

Hey everyone, I'm kind of new to this, but I really need help. I am trying to figure out which of these JL subs I should get for my car. I drive an '08 Civic Si coupe and have the setup in the trunk facing into the car in a somewhat slim sealed box (it has a mount depth of around 9"). I am more concerned with sound quality than I am with volume. I am only going to have one 10" sub hooked up to my JL 250/1 audio slash series amp. I listen to some hip-hop, but I also listen to rock, metal, techno, dance music, etc. so I need the sub to sound as tight as possible and hit as quickly and precisely as possible. I have found the 10w3v3 for about $160 new online, and the 10w6v2 for about $260 new online, so given the amp that I will be using, I am trying to figure out if it is really worth it to put up the extra cash for the w6 instead of the w3. I have only rudimentary knowledge of car audio, so if you could please keep everything dumbed down, I would really appreciate it and won't be insulted if you present the information in a manner you might view as "overly-simplistic." Thank you so much and I hope you can help me with this.

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[Fiendstolemyamp 10+ year member]

I think you'd be better off with the w3 for that application. It's a better match for your amp & I think you'd be plenty pleased with it's performance.

 

[shortround8484]

Does that mean that the w3 has tighter and quicker bass? Or just that it's not really worth the additional money to go up to the w6?

 

[Fiendstolemyamp 10+ year member]

IMO either one would have the "quick & tight" sound that you're looking for but you simply don't have the power to justify going with the w6. Your amp would be nice for a single w3 10" though. Just my view.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

JL Audio is overpriced and there are better choices for less $.

This would be perfect with your amp and its only $120:

SSA Shop- SSA Dcon 10D4 Sub woofer300watt rms

 

[zako 10+ year member]

"Tight and quick bass" is just bass that belongs to upper sub bass and lower midbass frequencies. A subwoofer that mostly plays only "tight and quick" bass may actually have a deficiency in its sub bass response. The reverse may also be true. A subwoofer whose bass sounds slow and flabby all the time may have a hump in its sub bass frequency response. Ideally you want a flat in-cabin frequency response all the way down to like 30Hz. The best way to accomplish that is probably with a sealed box with a carefully chosen box size. Start with a perfect QTC alignment box size and then adjust its internal volume as necessary. Having said that, if you put an average 12 inch subwoofer into a sealed box that's way too small for it (that is, a box in which you get a very high QTC, like 0.95 and up), it may end up having a hump in its midbass response and steeper than usual sub bass response, so you end up with tight and punchy midbass response. An average 10inch sub in a sealed box will always play less deep than a comparable 12 inch subwoofer, so you can also expect from it a tighter and punchier bass.

Regarding, w3 vs w6, based on what I have read so far, w6 is a very serious SQ subwoofer. It's in a higher class than w3. However, given the power of your amplifier, w3 is a better match. I'd say go for a DVC 4ohm subwoofer with RMS rating of about 300watts, and wire it for 2 ohm load.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

The sound of the bass is dependent on too many variables.

You can still get a flat response curve with a ported setup.

 

[813thumper 10+ year member]

the W3 is a really good woofer. if you can find one for 160$ new then go for it. i had a pair and they were awesome.

 

[thevic24 5,000+ posts]

"Tight and quick bass" is just bass that belongs to upper sub bass and lower midbass frequencies. A subwoofer that mostly plays only "tight and quick" bass may actually have a deficiency in its sub bass response. The reverse may also be true. A subwoofer whose bass sounds slow and flabby all the time may have a hump in its sub bass frequency response. Ideally you want a flat in-cabin frequency response all the way down to like 30Hz. The best way to accomplish that is probably with a sealed box with a carefully chosen box size. Start with a perfect QTC alignment box size and then adjust its internal volume as necessary. Having said that, if you put an average 12 inch subwoofer into a sealed box that's way too small for it (that is, a box in which you get a very high QTC, like 0.95 and up), it may end up having a hump in its midbass response and steeper than usual sub bass response, so you end up with tight and punchy midbass response. An average 10inch sub in a sealed box will always play less deep than a comparable 12 inch subwoofer, so you can also expect from it a tighter and punchier bass.
Regarding, w3 vs w6, based on what I have read so far, w6 is a very serious SQ subwoofer. It's in a higher class than w3. However, given the power of your amplifier, w3 is a better match. I'd say go for a DVC 4ohm subwoofer with RMS rating of about 300watts, and wire it for 2 ohm load.

IIRC, the new W3's are SVC.....

JL Audio W3v3 Subwoofers - Car Audio Subwoofers

 

[shortround8484]

so given that the new w3s are SVC instead of DVC, should I still go with the latest w3 over the latest w6? p.s. thanks everybody!

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

ok, the W6 will play quite well on the 250w. it will actually sound better than the W3 on the same power. im a fan of JL, but for the money you can get two of the same quality subs from another builder.

if i had the money, i would go W6 in the JL box.

Matt

 

[shortround8484]

I had just spoken with an online rep from crutchfield regarding my potential setup, and he told me that i should even go to the lower JL 10w1 series, since this would be a better match for the amount of power I am running to it with my current amp. I was wondering what the benefits and disadvantages of such a move from even the 10w3 would do as far as volume and sound quality given my amp. thanks guys

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

if you are goign to downgrade. then go with 2 10W0 or 12W0s i had a 10W0 and ran it on 600w for awhile. sounded GREAT, unfortunatly the tinsel leads couldnt handle it and melted. got a new one due to factory fauly and ended up selling.

seriously, W6. you will be happy. even with the W3 you will be happy. but if you are looking for SQ, get the W6. even the W7 cant beat the W6 for SQ and the W7 is an AMAZING woofer all around.

Matt

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

meh, of the 2 i would use them as boat anchors or paper weights.

but if you must go with jl because you like the name, then get the w3 in s2 if possible (not sure, i cant stand jl)

and if you want to go with something that is truly sq later on when you have a bigger budget then look into hybrid audio technologies. they will put the jl's to shame.

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

pouble dost