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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
HELP!!!! JL 10w3v3 or 10w6v2
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<blockquote data-quote="zako" data-source="post: 7329830" data-attributes="member: 629735"><p>"Tight and quick bass" is just bass that belongs to upper sub bass and lower midbass frequencies. A subwoofer that mostly plays only "tight and quick" bass may actually have a deficiency in its sub bass response. The reverse may also be true. A subwoofer whose bass sounds slow and flabby all the time may have a hump in its sub bass frequency response. Ideally you want a flat in-cabin frequency response all the way down to like 30Hz. The best way to accomplish that is probably with a sealed box with a carefully chosen box size. Start with a perfect QTC alignment box size and then adjust its internal volume as necessary. Having said that, if you put an average 12 inch subwoofer into a sealed box that's way too small for it (that is, a box in which you get a very high QTC, like 0.95 and up), it may end up having a hump in its midbass response and steeper than usual sub bass response, so you end up with tight and punchy midbass response. An average 10inch sub in a sealed box will always play less deep than a comparable 12 inch subwoofer, so you can also expect from it a tighter and punchier bass.</p><p></p><p>Regarding, w3 vs w6, based on what I have read so far, w6 is a very serious SQ subwoofer. It's in a higher class than w3. However, given the power of your amplifier, w3 is a better match. I'd say go for a DVC 4ohm subwoofer with RMS rating of about 300watts, and wire it for 2 ohm load.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zako, post: 7329830, member: 629735"] "Tight and quick bass" is just bass that belongs to upper sub bass and lower midbass frequencies. A subwoofer that mostly plays only "tight and quick" bass may actually have a deficiency in its sub bass response. The reverse may also be true. A subwoofer whose bass sounds slow and flabby all the time may have a hump in its sub bass frequency response. Ideally you want a flat in-cabin frequency response all the way down to like 30Hz. The best way to accomplish that is probably with a sealed box with a carefully chosen box size. Start with a perfect QTC alignment box size and then adjust its internal volume as necessary. Having said that, if you put an average 12 inch subwoofer into a sealed box that's way too small for it (that is, a box in which you get a very high QTC, like 0.95 and up), it may end up having a hump in its midbass response and steeper than usual sub bass response, so you end up with tight and punchy midbass response. An average 10inch sub in a sealed box will always play less deep than a comparable 12 inch subwoofer, so you can also expect from it a tighter and punchier bass. Regarding, w3 vs w6, based on what I have read so far, w6 is a very serious SQ subwoofer. It's in a higher class than w3. However, given the power of your amplifier, w3 is a better match. I'd say go for a DVC 4ohm subwoofer with RMS rating of about 300watts, and wire it for 2 ohm load. [/QUOTE]
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HELP!!!! JL 10w3v3 or 10w6v2
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