Good 1 Cubed Foot Sealed Sub Enclosure?

[CivicRF 10+ year member]

For a 10" - Which size is the best for normal use?

1.) 12 x 12 x 12

2.) 14 x 14 x 10

3.) 14 x 14 x 12

If anyone has any other input, please feel free to help me out!

Will give out many "Thanks" for helping

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[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Any size will be fine. Sealed boxes aren't terribly picky about the shape, it's ported boxes that can start having problems. As long as you give the sub a little room in the back for venting you will be fine

 

[UMWDawg92 10+ year member]

Any size will be fine. Sealed boxes aren't terribly picky about the shape, it's ported boxes that can start having problems. As long as you give the sub a little room in the back for venting you will be fine

This^^ I've never had any problems with odd shaped sealed boxes or perfect cubes

 

[CivicRF 10+ year member]

Alright, I understand. Any of them that would produce a differwnt tunage on the box?

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

none of those should change much unless you made it wide as **** and had the magnet ON the back wall.. that would be the only time you might have a difference.. I have a truck and a 37" wide box that is less than a cube it sounds fine.. just saying

and as for the tunage for sealed boxes its pretty much just size that gives it any change.. and to figure that out you would have to do some experimenting with the sub you are planning on using

 

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

if you want to "tune" a sealed box and you have the room, you could add a passive radiator. that would give you more control over how it will sound

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

if you want to "tune" a sealed box and you have the room, you could add a passive radiator. that would give you more control over how it will sound

If you really wanted to go crazy with it ya.. but even then you have to know what you are doing find a good radiator to use specifically weight etc and play with it.. if he is asking questions about a cube that is probably a tad out of his ballpark atm..

 

[CivicRF 10+ year member]

Gotcha. Thanks to everyone, it's really appreciated. I'll let everyone know of the final product.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I have switched from a 5/8" MDF cube sealed box to a 3/4" MDF box of the same internal volume but with an angled back wall. There was an immediate difference in the bass. Part of that comes from the sturdier wood, and part of it is from not having a perfect cube. I recommend Atrend for a prefab box.

 

[CivicRF 10+ year member]

well I decided to stay away from perfect cube boxes. I'm doing a 14" x 14" x 12" box. Hopefully the sound will be great.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

well I decided to stay away from perfect cube boxes. I'm doing a 14" x 14" x 12" box. Hopefully the sound will be great.

That will be 0.92ft3 before sub displacement

Just a FYI for ya.

what sub are you using?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I have switched from a 5/8" MDF cube sealed box to a 3/4" MDF box of the same internal volume but with an angled back wall. There was an immediate difference in the bass. Part of that comes from the sturdier wood, and part of it is from not having a perfect cube. I recommend Atrend for a prefab box.

Standing waves aren't really a problem in a relatively small sealed box housing a subwoofer. If there really was a noticeable change, it was more likely from the new construction (sealed better, less flexing, etc) than from a standing rear wave issue like you are implying.

Like said above, generally sealed boxes are pretty flexible in what shape you can get away with using. Hell, some people have used plastic hose layed down inside their doors to increase the internal volume of the enclosure they have housed their mids in, which obviously is no where near a uniform size/shape throughout the internal space.