Ford 1999 Single Cab F150 Build(Lots Of Images)

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Yep, nothing fancy, no rims, no lowering or lift kit, no fancy exhaust. But I kept the truck exceptionally clean for one that is nearly 10 years old.

Well, it's may 23rd and I have purchased over 60% of the current future setup components which currently stand at:

HU: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X891 - *Bought*

(Kick-Panel)Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 6.5" Components

(Doors)Front Stage: RainbowSLC 5"x7" Components

Front Stage Amp: Profile AP1000 2-Ch Amp - *Bought*

Sub Stage: 15" DVC 2-Ohm Fi Q - *Bought*

Sub Stage Amp: Brutus Bxi1606d Class D Mono Amp - *Bought*

Enclosure: 3.35ft^3 @ 34hz - *Bought*

Deadening: RAAMAT BXT/Ensolite

Wiring/Dis. Blocks: KnuKonceptz Kolossus/Krystal/Karma SS Wiring. - *Bought*

Which is a world of difference from my past setup which was the following:

HU: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X791

Front Stage: Phoenix Gold RSD Comp Set

Front Stage Amp: Profile AP1000 2-Ch Amp

Sub Stage: 2x Kicker CVT 12" Shallow Mounts

Sub Stage Amp: Hifonics Titan Txi1008d

Enclosure: 2.36ft^3 Sealed

Wiring/Dis. Blocks: KnuKonceptz/JL Audio Dual Amp 4awg Kit

The above setup wasn't built to turn heads as much as it was built to provide a very decent sound solution to my truck. So why did I choose to completely overhaul everything on the setup?

Because of one problem, which was located in the head unit.

To begin you off before I start posting pics and other fun stuff, I'll summarize the past install:

Did I mention I like making everything clean?

The install was kinda rushed from the get-go and was planned to actually be completed in a week or less before college classes began. Unfortunately this planned time length didn't incorporate the time it would take to iron out different problems and difficulties, and being my very first install, there would be a lot of difficulties.

The installation period began at the end of July, July 29th to be exact and it began with the installation of the 4awg wiring and ended with the final installation of the component set in Mid-October. So much for a week huh?

The following problems were encountered:

1 - Hifonics Txi1008d would not output any sound.

- Shipped it to a amplifier repair shop to investigate the problem and they reported that it was indeed working fine even though I hooked up in different setups besides mine with no output coming from it.

2- Extremely odd remote wire defeciency involving the head unit.

- This problem was never really solved, it just kinda went away randomly.

3 - Hifonics Txi1008d not outputting any real amount of power without the bass boost being turned up.

- This problem actually resided in the head unit, but at first I thought it was the amplifier. But i was setting the gains and with all eq settings flat and bass boost at minimum, I was getting 0.4volts from the speaker outputs instead of the calculated 28-31volts but when the bass boost was turned up, the voltage rose according but ofcourse there was alot of distortion as well.

4 - Random CD player cut offs.

- Did some tidying around of the wires behind the unit and this problem was solved.

5 - Random HU USB error when music is too loud.

- This problem is still current on the head unit but doesn't really affect anything, it just kinda occured one day when the head unit restarted itself randomly and resetted all of the settings back to factory.

6 -Alternator whine issue through the front RCA's.

- This issue was discovered when we were installing the component set and it is probably one of the most mysterious issues encountered. Alternator whine was affected the front RCA's heavily, the rear RCA's were unaffected and now the component set is hooked up to them. I did everything to try and fix this problem, grounding the RCA's, grounding the HU on the chassis, distribution block, amplifier grounding point, and even directly to the negative terminal of the battery. I even bought a ground loop isolator which for some reason that knocked out the right channel of sound coming from the HU completely. I even trouble shooted the amplifier with a Y-adapter and an ipod to further pinpoint the problem to the headunit.

7 - Fried my PG RSD 6.5" midbass driver, no idea how I managed to pull that one off but when we first started up the system with the right side of the component set hooked up, the voice coil of the driver was completely fried. I ended up having to order a replacement one from Phoenix Gold directly.

8- Some really bad issues with mounting the component set due to lack of supplies and tools which could have and be affecting the performance of the midbass driver now as we speak.

Those were the major problems that affected the setup but at the end of October, the setup was finally operational.

Not exactly what I expected so I was pretty disappointed but there wasn't much I could do in the middle of school so I just dealt with it and planned for a new setup. The last setup I would put in that truck, hopefully. Distorted subwoofers, lack of any midbass from the component set. I would even say that I heard stock systems in newer vehicles which personally sounded better than my amplified set of PG RSD 6.5" components. I was extremely disappointed.

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[Trepkos 10+ year member]

So my future setup, the one currently in the works has changed forms several times over the past two or three monthes.

It first began as mainly a substage upgrade:

A bigger enclosure which would enclose 2x 12" Kicker CVX DVC 4-Ohm subwoofers, and I would run them off of a Hifonics Txi1508d class D mono amplifier.

The amplifier changed from a Txi1508d to a Bxi1606d class D for reliability issues and recommendations. Soon even the 2x 12' Kicker CVX's changed to a single 15" Fi Q w/o BP option.

But as the project progressed it became apparent that I was willing and wanting to upgrade and overhaul almost every aspect of my current system. Thus, the faulty head unit was to be upgraded to a Pioneer DEH-P7900BT then that changed to an Alpine CDA-9887, which changed to a Kenwood eXcelon kdc-x991, and then finally settled on a Kenwood eXcelon kdc-x891.

Upgrading the front stage of the system was controversial since I was mostly satisfied with my PG rsd comp set besides the midbass(or lackof). But I decided that I would need an increase in my mids and highs to balance out my sub stage. I first began with the idea of keeping the PG comp set and installing a set of stand alone tweeters with built in crossovers into the pillars of the door. This changed to actually getting a 6x8 Rockford Fosgate T-Series component set to replace the Phoenix gold set in the doors and essentially move the phoenix gold set to custom Q-form kick panel enclosures for 6.5" speakers. This eventually changed to putting Rainbow SLC 5x7" component speakers in the factory locations in the door and the 6.5" Rainbow SLC in the kick panels.

To run this front stage I planned out running it all directly off a 4-Channel Alpine PDX 4.100 amplifier, and even bought the appopriated 4-channel RCA cables to do so. But after research, I decided that I could possibly save money and keep the Profile AP1000 2-channel amplifier and run the two component sets on it, it outputting 225watts x2 @2Ohms. But this is still controversial, because I'm not sure if the amplifier really puts out the power needed to effeciently power these two component sets. In which case I am looking at possibly getting a eD NiNe.2.

Ok, enough of that text block.

The biggest problem that affects putting a system in a single cab pick up truck is space(or lack of). Especially when your only real substage options are restricted by the space available behind the bench seat in my truck. The box which housed the 2x Kicker CompVT's was exceptionally small at best, 2.36ft^3 and sealed.

Its dimensions was 9"BDx4.5"TDx16"Hx50.75"L and that box was a snug fit.

This box would have to have a lot more air space, alot more mounting depth and was also originally planned to be sealed. To do this would require the enclosure to take up all available space and even then some.

Design by Cody Smith of SM Customz

4.4ft^3 sealed.

This was the original enclosure design. But unfortunately I thought that the Bxi1606d being as overrated as it is, would not output enough power to efficiently move two CVX's which thermal power handling was 750watts a piece. So I opted out for a single 15" Fi Q, and better yet, why not port it.

Thus this design came to be.

3.5ft^3 @ 33hz Ported

Design by Cody Smith of SM Customz

As you can tell by the way that the back side of the enclosure is shaped, the enclosure is built to fit into the back wall of the truck and wrap around the support beam adding 2"+ of mounting depth. This would mean that some modifications would be needed to be made so that the enclosure could sit comfortable against the back wall, cutting panels and clothe and exposing the metal. Unfortunately one issue arose before construction began and that was the breathing room for the side-firing port.

At 55" there was be very little, 2-3", of airspace distance from the port and the side rear panel of the truck where the empty rear speaker slots sit. For that reason, the enclosure length was decreased to 53" to allow around 7" of breathing room and ofcourse alot of space if the air traveled around the edge of the passenger's seat. This decreased the airspace to 3.3ft^3 and increased the port tuning to 34hz. I also had to take into account the obstruction of the seatbelt compartments on the rear panels.

Oh yeah, the sub and port placement has been reversed, sub on the driver's and port on the passenger's.

With a top depth of 7"'s there seat my sit a tad bit upright.

Look at that abundance of space!

The crew at SM Customz are currently in the process of building the box which may arrive sometime next week.

Now one of the biggest issues with the last install was the lack of tools and tools such as wood/disconnects/connectors/and other assorted wiring accessories. I decided to be prepared this time around.

Meet my toolbox...

Old tools from the last install mainly include the power drill which wasn't used until later in the progress of the install. Quite a bit of screws, screwdrivers, zip-ties, hammer, broom, my handy DMM, circuit tester, assorted small wires for remote and headunit wiring, and my broom and really decent black gel(for restoring black color on faded black plastic panels and vinyl,this stuff works extremely well for a walmart product.) and some crappy pliers and wire strippers.

But to add to my arsenal I have acquired the following and hopefully have finished my tool and accessory purchasing for this project.

- 15ft Red 3/4" Split-Loom(For the 0/1 awg wire going from the engine compartment to the inside of the cab.

- 25ft Black Techflex Wiring Covering(For the big 3 0/1 wiring in the engine compartment.)

- Wedge-On Crimping Tool (For crimping 0/1 awg wires in their ring terminals.)

- 8x 1/0 Gauge ring terminals w/insulation(For the battery hookup and Big 3 installation.)

- 11-Piece Soldering Tool Kit - This came from radio shack and is a nifty little soldering kit which includes the gun, alot of other assorted accesories for wire management and a small amount of 60/40 solder. Unlike last time, the wiring will secured to their speaker terminals on the speakers with the help of disconnects and solder instead of just twisted and tied on.

- Kronus Heavy Duty Automatic Wire Stripper/Cutter - an extremely handy wire stripper/cutter and crimper for the speaker and subwoofer wires.

- Heat Shrink Tubing Set(36-Pack) - This is for the headunit wire connections to provide a more secure connection without coating the entire thing in butt connectors and electrical tape like last time.

- 4x 12awg Female disconnects - This is for the subwoofer terminals, I bought these when I thought that I would be dealing with 2 subwoofers instead of one, thus 4 of em instead of two.

- 50x 14-16awg Female Disconnects - Cant have enough of these little jokers for the component system wiring, lots of room for error with this many.

- 1lb of 60/40 solder - idea for electrical use such as wire connections.

- Heat gun - this ofcourse will be used with the heat shrinks.

All of the tools I gathered are ones which survived the last installation and new ones which will provide better connections, more easy and security in the installation as well as increase in stability. No jerry-rigging this time.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

One of the biggest parts of this build project is the wiring which will include the upgrading of the big three with 0/1awg wiring as well as upgrading the audio system wiring standard from its previous 4 - 8awg setup to a 0/1 - 4awg setup.

And also I will be using 12awg for the speakers and 16awg for the front stage speakers. I have finished acquiring all the wiring components and wire needed. Which consisted of the following:

25ft KnuKonceptz Kolossus 1/0 Gauge Power Wire

2x In-Line Waterproof ANL w/300A Fuse(One for the Big 3, one for the main system)

2x KonFused Negative Battery Terminals

2x KonFUSED 2-Way Distribution Block(2x 150A) Fuses

Several Feet Of 4 Gauge Power Wire(This was leftover JL audio wiring from the last installation).

20ft Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire

30ft Karma SS 16 Gauge Speaker Wire

Krystal Kable 4 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable(Might not need now.)

So as far as wiring and tools are concerned I am pretty much prepared. Hopefully the 25ft of 0/1awg wire will last through the Big 3 and the small distance it needs to travel to get to the distribution blocks in the cab of the truck.

Now to occupy that wonderful enclosure being designed and built above came the 15" Fi Q. Probably the biggest subwoofer and one of the sexiest subwoofers I have ever seen in person.

The last pic was where I was measuring the dimensions of the motor and basket of the subwoofer to make sure it would fit in the designed enclosure.

And to power this subwoofer will be the Hifonics Bxi1606d Class D Mono amplifier.

An issue with this amplifier is mainly its length which is around 2-3"'s longer than the previous Txi1008d amplifier which sat beneath the seat. The combination of this length and height is conflicting with the seat movement bar on the underside of the seat so the amplifier will be switching places with the front stage amplifier on the underside of the passenger's side.

Similar to the previous setup, the amplifier and distribution blocks will be placed underneath the bench seat.

Since the subwoofer is going behind the seat and the enclosure is such a large fit I ordered a 15" Bar Grille to offer protection to keep the surround and dust cap from becoming damaged by the backside of the seat. The previous Kicker CVT's left impressions in the back fabric of the seat. Amazingly the grille actually fits over the subwoofer, barely, but it does. But to keep it from pushing the seat upwards i may need to cut into the seat to allow the grille to sit inside the back of the seat.

The grille will also allow more breathing and movement room for excursion. Did I mention it looks hawt too?

I actually have planned out the entire installation process on a wordpad file which included a checklist to make sure each and every aspect of the system is finely tuned, operational, and secure. I plan for the installation to begin in mid-June and last an entire week. This is the latest date, allowing me enough time(hopefully) to save up the money needed to purchase the remainder of the system.

Today I purchased the head unit for this system, which is Kenwood eXcelon KDC-x891; which has everything I want out of a head unit. Eventhough my past experience with Kenwood head unit hasn't been the best, I love the look and functionality of these decks, plus for the price and amount of features, this deck was my final choice.

Both it and the custom enclosure should be shipped in sometime next week, my next build related post will probably include information about those two components, and the process of getting the box to fit behind the seat and also the installation of the subwoofer in that box.

Hopefully all of that will go flawlessly, I will be using the 12awg wiring, the 12awg disconnects, and solder to provide for an extremely secure connection, as well as drilling and screwing the subwoofer and grille into the enclosure. Once that is done, cutting into the panels and possibly into the seat as well as seat adjustments would be done to make sure that the box has a comfortable fit without too much trouble.

Remaining Parts Include:

RAAMAT BXT Deadening Material

Ensolite™ MLC

V&S Spray Adhesive

Q-Forms Kick Panel Enclosures(6.5" Midbass, 2.5"Tweeter)

07' Rainbow Audio SLC SAC 265.25 6.5" Component Set

08' Rainbow Audio SLC 238 w/ Cal25 Tweeter 5x7" Component Set

Not sure how much deadening material I need, but I plan on deadening the doors, back wall, and floor of the truck. Other changes that may be made is the incorporation of a new two channel amplifier.

I began the process of locally selling my subwoofers and amplifier, in doing so, I actually discovered that the defect that sorta started this entire overhaul, the defect which I blamed on the amplifier was actually a defect affecting the head unit. The amplifier would not output the amount of voltage it was rated to put out, 0.4v instead of 28-31volts without the aid of a heavily distorting bass control remote.

After selling the amplifier to the same individual which I had sold my subwoofers and helping him install the two components in his single cab truck. I discovered that the CVTs were hitting much much louder than they had been in my truck, and that is without the gain, bass eq, and bass boost control turned to max.

But it all made sense now, the front RCA preout isolated alternator whine, random USB errors, and low amplifier output voltage were all the result of a defect in the headunit.

Other than that, thats all for right now.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

for the exception of this truck being a ford, im eager to see the end product.

Is that grill tall enough for the FI?

Hint: use less words, summarize, and more pics always a plus.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

for the exception of this truck being a ford, im eager to see the end product.
Is that grill tall enough for the FI?

Hint: use less words, summarize, and more pics always a plus.

Yeah, kinda maxed out the number of pics for each post.

Only 4-1/2' of exposure on the top and bottom with that grille, but that shouldnt pose a problem.

The back seat will not touch the surround, since the grille will sticking out a whole lot more than in that picture, what little fabric that doesn't make contact with the bars will simply descend from that point hopefully without contacting the surround.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Yeah, kinda maxed out the number of pics for each post.
Only 4-1/2' of exposure on the top and bottom with that grille, but that shouldnt pose a problem.

that should be fine

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Anyway, thanks for the replies, suggestions, attention and everything else.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Woo...

 

[SuperchargedRS 10+ year member]

Looks like your dumping some time and money into that truck.

I think it would look 10x better w/o the chrome mexi rails on the bed, steering wheel cover and blue lights and lack of hub cap

 

[KINGDELL91 10+ year member]

interesting...

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Looks like your dumping some time and money into that truck.
I think it would look 10x better w/o the chrome mexi rails on the bed, steering wheel cover and blue lights and lack of hub cap

Got a hub cap, rails are there for a reason, if you saw the steering wheel you'd want the cover on there, blue lights are extremely handy.

 

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

I want ot know how in the hell your'e doing 3.35 in that truck, unless you're a midget. I had a 99 f-150 single cab, had many of different setups, best is the one that the box is still sitting in the garage. Built for one 12" woofer at 40hz, took up all the room I had near about, and it was 2.25, IIRC

I lost a few clicks on the seat with that, it was almost uncomfortable to sit in and I'm only 5'10

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

I want ot know how in the hell your'e doing 3.35 in that truck, unless you're a midget. I had a 99 f-150 single cab, had many of different setups, best is the one that the box is still sitting in the garage. Built for one 12" woofer at 40hz, took up all the room I had near about, and it was 2.25, IIRC
I lost a few clicks on the seat with that, it was almost uncomfortable to sit in and I'm only 5'10

Ok, I will show you the next post. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Ok, I will show you the next post. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The only issue I should run into is the top depth of 7 inches at 20 inches height, but I think/hope that the only issues can be solved by cutting into the back of the seat and moving it forward a bit.

 

[gladiator_jai 10+ year member]

Looks good bro, waiting eagerly to see the box.