Flxx fa12 review........vids

[quackhead 10+ year member]

How do you determine resonance of the alignment when it's already set, or at the very least altered, by the vent?
Maybe I should have said what I always say and that's "at or near tuning." Is at or near tuning going to be the exact lowest spot on the imedance plot? I don't know. I don't do impedance sweeps on every alignment I've ever owned, but I've clamped **** near every box I've had and impedance is pretty f'n low at my intended tuning.

kinda like this?

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Umm... ok. You just proved my point.

[Edit: that has to be anechoic testing. Interesting to note though that the SPLtot is actually a tad higher above "tuning" or Fb even in an anechoic environment with no cabin or room gain to speak of and rising to upwards of 15 flippin ohms. Also curious where the 1,000w total power measurement was taken on that plot because if it was at 30hz where impedance was 2.5 or so; it would be interesting to know where the output was rising to 15ohms around 45hz and maintaining the same SPL.]

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

man, I wasn't trying to open up a hornets nest of questions I cannot answer, lol..i was just trying to place a visual of impedance characteristics and port/driver interaction..i just put something up here that folks could wrap their heads around relating to what you and hspls were referring to.

it is a older program I use on another computer with windows Vista and an older version of microsoft office. I don't know if there is a newer release or not, but I like it a lot better than WinISD..

UniBox 4.08

UniBox - Unified Box Model for Loudspeaker Design

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

First :15 seconds

Kevin Hart Laugh at My Pain 2011 part 3.. ALRIGHT ALRIGHT ALRIGHT, YOU GON LEARN TODAY! - YouTube

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Umm... ok. You just proved my point.
[Edit: that has to be anechoic testing. Interesting to note though that the SPLtot is actually a tad higher above "tuning" or Fb even in an anechoic environment with no cabin or room gain to speak of and rising to upwards of 15 flippin ohms. Also curious where the 1,000w total power measurement was taken on that plot because if it was at 30hz where impedance was 2.5 or so; it would be interesting to know where the output was rising to 15ohms around 45hz and maintaining the same SPL.]

One of those peaks is the resonance of the box/port, and one is FS of the woofer. Resonance is always found by impedence peaks.

If you own a tone generator and have some patience you can plot a full impedence curve on your woofers in-box, or you can buy a tester like WT3 that will do it quickly.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

One of those peaks is the resonance of the box/port, and one is FS of the woofer. Resonance is always found by impedence peaks.
If you own a tone generator and have some patience you can plot a full impedence curve on your woofers in-box, or you can buy a tester like WT3 that will do it quickly.

I understand all of this. My question was why were you likening resonance to tuning and the point with lowest rise to impedance peaks?

Our conversation was about where best to clamp estimated system power. Resonance and/or an impedance peak would be the exact worst spot to do that. Unless, of course, you wanted to know the least possible amount of power you would see at a given volume at any given time.

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I hate to take this a different direction, but without resistance on the amplifier outputs, what difference would it matter what frequency you use when setting the gain with nothing but a dmm and a tone, as most advise?

ex: 20hz tone with no speakers hooked up vs 100hz tone with no speakers hooked up

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I understand all of this. My question was why were you likening resonance to tuning and the point with lowest rise to impedance peaks?
Our conversation was about where best to clamp estimated system power. Resonance and/or an impedance peak would be the exact worst spot to do that. Unless, of course, you wanted to know the least possible amount of power you would see at a given volume at any given time.

Exactly my point. To really be sure the woofer(s) will never be overpowered, one must set gains at the LOWEST impedence the amp will see. That will NOT be at resonance.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

I hate to take this a different direction, but without resistance on the amplifier outputs, what difference would it matter what frequency you use when setting the gain with nothing but a dmm and a tone, as most advise?ex: 20hz tone with no speakers hooked up vs 100hz tone with no speakers hooked up

From what I understand, meters are most accurate at 50/60hz. Also, you don't want to get into you crossovers if you use a tone too far one way or the other. but in all honesty, as long as your crossover isn't attentuating the signal, it probably doesnt matter.

Exactly my point. To really be sure the woofer(s) will never be overpowered, one must set gains at the LOWEST impedence the amp will see. That will NOT be at resonance.

Lol. You just reiterated what I said in my first response.

40hz is a good compromise since he's probably tuned around 32 or so. Keep in mind that way more effort and "behind the scenes" is going into this review than 99.99% of people that buy them will put in. Those people will slap them on a dirty 1500 or 2k and start beating the crap out of them.

 

[armykyle1 10+ year member]

I like this thread

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

From what I understand, meters are most accurate at 50/60hz. Also, you don't want to get into you crossovers if you use a tone too far one way or the other. but in all honesty, as long as your crossover isn't attentuating the signal, it probably doesnt matter.


Lol. You just reiterated what I said in my first response.

40hz is a good compromise since he's probably tuned around 32 or so. Keep in mind that way more effort and "behind the scenes" is going into this review than 99.99% of people that buy them will put in. Those people will slap them on a dirty 1500 or 2k and start beating the crap out of them.

OK, I thought you said tuning was 40hz so that was the lowest point.

Aren't these rated 600W anyway. Really I wouldn't expect them to survive long at even the 1200.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

OK, I thought you said tuning was 40hz so that was the lowest point.
Aren't these rated 600W anyway. Really I wouldn't expect them to survive long at even the 1200.

I'm not holding out much hope for them either; even on rated power.

Skip is hard on subs, but he's responsible about it. He's knows if a sub is in trouble mehcanically or thermally and I imagine his instinct is to shut it down. That's good news for the FLXX.

We need someone who's as knowledgable as Skip, but irresponsible. Lol.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

OK, I thought you said tuning was 40hz so that was the lowest point.
Aren't these rated 600W anyway. Really I wouldn't expect them to survive long at even the 1200.

I don't think they are rated very conservatively. By the pics I have seen, it looks like cooling might become an issue with the FLXX subs rather quickly..

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

Vid coming up soon from another opinion i played them for....hes had 2 setups now with SA subs so he knows what they should sound like/ perform like