First build VW Routan minivan

[MinuteMan]

So, all of my orders have arrived and all I need now is a few sheets of MDF to get started.

Forewarning, this will be a slow build as I don't have much free time. Hoping to be done by summer:

2010 VW Routan

HU:
Eonon GA2185
W/ USB OBD

Amps:
Taramps Smart Bass 3K
Taramps DS800x2
Taramps DS800x4

"DSP":
Taramps Pro 2.6

Speakers:
Audio Legion CMPG65 components (2 sets)
Audio Legion S25 6.5 (pair)
Audio Legion Gladiator 15 (pair)

Wires/Power:
Autotech 340a alternator
1/0 OFC (Big 3, and Smart 3k)
4ga OFC (DS800X2 &DS800X4)
Energie SC1600 Super Cell Battery (3x)
Custom solid copper buss bars
American Bass circuit breakers (300A, 200A, 100A x2)
Stinger volt guage
Knukonceptz distro blocks


Front Mids and tweets in the doors in stock location
Rear mids and tweets in the pillar stock location
6.5's midbass in 4th order bandpass under middle row seats.
15's in Ported box, 6.0cuft tuned to 25hz in floor behind 3rd row seats.

That's the basics for now, I'll slowly update as I get things built

Click to read more...

 

[MinuteMan]

 

[djdilliodon!]

Good thing I looked here cause you just saved me some money lol. That alternator looks nice! I’m gonna order one for my car as they do one for it. $385 powder coated and all for 320 amps? Sold! Did they say you gotta run a shorter belt or?

 

[MinuteMan]

Good thing I looked here cause you just saved me some money lol. That alternator looks nice! I’m gonna order one for my car as they do one for it. $385 powder coated and all for 320 amps? Sold! Did they say you gotta run a shorter belt or?

I do have to run a shorter belt, but just send an email and ask for your application. He was super quick to respond to my questions.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I do have to run a shorter belt, but just send an email and ask for your application. He was super quick to respond to my questions.

I sent them an email. I figured a shorter belt would be needed and it doesn’t matter as I’d replace it anyway while doing the alternator.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

6 cubes seems small for a box for two 15s. Have you modeled those in some box design software?

 

[MinuteMan]

6 cubes seems small for a box for two 15s. Have you modeled those in some box design software?

I have room for bigger, and originally had designed it at 7cuft. Spoke with a box builder from this forum, and the idea behind the 6 cube box was since I'm over powering the 15's, smaller box would help keep them in control.

If it doesn't sound how I want, I'll build it bigger.

Appreciate the response and I'm open to suggestions/ideas

 

[MinuteMan]

6 cubes seems small for a box for two 15s. Have you modeled those in some box design software?

Also, 3.0 cuft/sub is the minimum volume reccomend by the mfg specs, and the 6.0 is net after displacement.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Also, 3.0 cuft/sub is the minimum volume reccomend by the mfg specs, and the 6.0 is net after displacement.

Considering the price of the subs I’m willing to bet it’s running a soft suspension which will allow it to do fine in compact enclosures. The real challenge is getting the tuning frequency as the port will have to be long. If it will exit the side I’m sure it will be much easier to achieve.

 

[MinuteMan]

Considering the price of the subs I’m willing to bet it’s running a soft suspension which will allow it to do fine in compact enclosures. The real challenge is getting the tuning frequency as the port will have to be long. If it will exit the side I’m sure it will be much easier to achieve.

Port is exiting the front:

 

[djdilliodon!]

Port is exiting the front:View attachment 35959View attachment 35960View attachment 35961

Ahh it’s only 48 sq inches of port. Don’t know those subs so can’t say if that’s enough but the subs I build need 60 each or more lol. In my setup it’s 150 sq inches for the 2 15’s and I had to settle at 32 hz. Just can’t get it to the 29 hz I wanted

 

[MinuteMan]

Ahh it’s only 48 sq inches of port. Don’t know those subs so can’t say if that’s enough but the subs I build need 60 each or more lol. In my setup it’s 150 sq inches for the 2 15’s and I had to settle at 32 hz. Just can’t get it to the 29 hz I wanted

I guess I'm going to find out! Lol

If it doesn't work. I'm not scared to start over.

 

[djdilliodon!]

I guess I'm going to find out! Lol

If it doesn't work. I'm not scared to start over.

Not enough port area it can sound bad, kill output, and cause port noise. Too much port area it can lower power handling and cause a sub to bottom out (never had that happen to me personally). General rule, 12-16 sq inch per cubic feet. I’d say 70-80 sq in for those subs would be good. Input power, driver size, and xmax can also deviate from the 12-16 sq inch rule so don’t take it as gospel.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Also, 3.0 cuft/sub is the minimum volume reccomend by the mfg specs, and the 6.0 is net after displacement.

The thing is that the vast majority of consumers just get some idea in their head about what cone area they "need" and plan to either throw it in some shitty prefab or have very limited cargo area so they are primarily making their buying decision based around the largest cone area they can jam into whatever too-small space they plan to use. I mean it stands to reason that some shitty 15" woofer will outperform any 12" woofer, right? Bigger is better.

This generally works out well enough since the sort of people that buy this way generally won't know any better when the end results are lackluster.

That all said, that audio legion stuff is extremely budget so I'd have reasonable expectations but just from what I've seen over the years with "recommended" box volumes from a variety of manufacturers I'd go out on a limb and say you'll almost always get better performance going larger and I'd also worry that the port area is inadequate, though adding more port area will become very impractical if you're insisting on 25hz tuning. Any particular reason you're tuning so low?

 

[MinuteMan]

The thing is that the vast majority of consumers just get some idea in their head about what cone area they "need" and plan to either throw it in some shitty prefab or have very limited cargo area so they are primarily making their buying decision based around the largest cone area they can jam into whatever too-small space they plan to use. I mean it stands to reason that some shitty 15" woofer will outperform any 12" woofer, right? Bigger is better.

This generally works out well enough since the sort of people that buy this way generally won't know any better when the end results are lackluster.

That all said, that audio legion stuff is extremely budget so I'd have reasonable expectations but just from what I've seen over the years with "recommended" box volumes from a variety of manufacturers I'd go out on a limb and say you'll almost always get better performance going larger and I'd also worry that the port area is inadequate, though adding more port area will become very impractical if you're insisting on 25hz tuning. Any particular reason you're tuning so low?

Thanks for the input. Feedback like this is exactly why I posted BEFORE building boxes!

I have no delusions of what the audio legion speakers are. But I did read a lot of positive reviews on them, for what they cost.

Vehicle is a daily that hauls 5 kids to soccer regularly. Netflix etc is watched on the video monitors.
25 hz was my target tuning to be able to hit lows, and I assumed cabin gain and rise would bring peak up closer to 30hz anyway (idk what I'm doing so may be a dumb assumption).

6.5s in the bandpass take over around 80hz. So my idea was full range of bass and mid bass between the 2.

The audio legion stuff was just so cheap, it allows me to build a complete system "now" while not skimping on my "guts" (wiring, Alternator, battery bank, etc).

I haven't touched the Gladiator 15's they're still in sealed boxes and I've already started planning their replacements. Lol

So, I'm overpowering the 15's, going to push then hard, and WHEN they fail, I'll upgrade.

Might make sense to go with a bigger box in the first place so when it's upgrade time, I could utilize the same box for the upgraded subs.

I think the 6.5's will hopefully do the job intended. They appear to be nearly identical to the skarbage evil 6.5's (spec sheets are exactly the same).

If not, again I'm open to upgrade.

2 Months ago this started with the idea of adding a powered sub for a little more bass... and here I am. Lol

My car audio knowledge before 2 months ago consisted of "bass go boom" and that's about it. Lol