First build log ever

I still enjoy using an Indash EQ. Old school style still with adjustments at my finger tips. I may look into a DSP later on. Not interested in it atm
I'm actually using an Axxess DSP so that I can edit each speaker individually and the Clarion EQ to move frequencies up and down as I like for the entire car. That way I have God mode cheat code access to each frequency and whichever way I want.
 
I'm actually using an Axxess DSP so that I can edit each speaker individually and the Clarion EQ to move frequencies up and down as I like for the entire car. That way I have God mode cheat code access to each frequency and whichever way I want.
I dont have DSP but I have TA and I like the EQ for that reason.I feel like I have easier control to tune in
 
Finishing the passenger side door:

Today my door adapters finally arrived so instead of putting the carpet in like I was supposed to I decided to sound deaden and mount the speakers into the passenger side door.

Here's some pictures of the Hertz mid bass compared to the factory one that came out of the door:

20220815_201100.jpg20220815_201110.jpg

I can tell that they're going to make a huge difference in the quality and the loudness of the front stage.

This time I remembered to add sound deadening to the inside sheet metal as well as the actual door frame. I didn't cover the entire door as I did with the passengers. What I actually did this time was I made sure to address any flat areas without any bends that would create vibration.

20220815_195207.jpg20220815_195721.jpg20220815_200814.jpg

I also remembered to add sound deadening around the mounting point for the speaker adapter and the speaker gaskets to prevent unnecessary noise.

When I put the door back together and found that everything fit perfectly with no issue I was pretty stoked. It's kind of nice to see a 6 month plan begin to coalesce into the final product and have it come out super close to what your original vision was.
 
Completing wiring and the driver side door:

I completed the sound deadening on the driver side door and the component set fit perfectly on that side as well

20220816_114845.jpg

I also ran RCA cables beneath the center console to the back of the car as well

20220816_152100.jpg20220816_152050.jpgreceived_812618133067394.jpegreceived_1495041027621510.jpeg

Once I was done I realized that I messed up pretty badly because I did not label the RCA jacks at all. But it took me 2 hours to run down as neatly as I did and to make them fit perfectly beneath the console so I'm definitely not going to undo that to figure out which one is which.

I am however very open to options as to how I can sort them out without having to redo everything over again. Right now I'm going with plug one into the receiver and test them for signal one by one.

Any better ideas?

Lewis King
 
Completing wiring and the driver side door:

I completed the sound deadening on the driver side door and the component set fit perfectly on that side as well

View attachment 41666

I also ran RCA cables beneath the center console to the back of the car as well

View attachment 41667View attachment 41668View attachment 41669View attachment 41670

Once I was done I realized that I messed up pretty badly because I did not label the RCA jacks at all. But it took me 2 hours to run down as neatly as I did and to make them fit perfectly beneath the console so I'm definitely not going to undo that to figure out which one is which.

I am however very open to options as to how I can sort them out without having to redo everything over again. Right now I'm going with plug one into the receiver and test them for signal one by one.

Any better ideas?

Lewis King
Use a long wire with an alligator clip and test continuity buy attaching the alligator clip to the positive post of the rca plug and the other end of the wire to the multimeter. Then with the remaining probe find the matching rca by touching the positive post on the other end.

Your just making a long set of test probes
 
Use a long wire with an alligator clip and test continuity buy attaching the alligator clip to the positive post of the rca plug and the other end of the wire to the multimeter. Then with the remaining probe find the matching rca by touching the positive post on the other end.

Your just making a long set of test probes
So I thought about it and I realized that with the little deductive reasoning I actually only needed to test two of the RCA's and from that I can figure out what all of them were so once I did it it only took like 5 minutes.
 
Mocking up kick panels for the 3 and 1/2 coaxials:

Today I figured out another thing that had stumped me for a couple of weeks. I couldn't figure out how to mock up the kick panel pods for the three and a half inch speakers that I have from Hertz.

20220817_134416.jpg20220817_134443.jpg20220817_134445.jpg

In the pictures I have two different angles marked up but I'm honestly not sure which one would be the best or how to figure that out. Because once I do the fiberglass it's going to be permanent.

20220730_170401.jpg

That's what it'll look like once the speaker is inside the pod. Then I'll cover it with a metal grill to protect from shoes.

So I guess I'm going to have to give it a few more days so I can figure that out but at least I have the problem solved.
 
You could get a laser pointer, attach it to the baffles and aim at the headrests. This works but I would wire them up and listen and find the best position. I would get them as deep and wide as you can if you're going in the kicks. You have a car similar to the size of mine so this should be fine.
Have you thought of building them into the "A" pillars? Just curious. Do they need a chamber to fire in (enclosure)?
 
You could get a laser pointer, attach it to the baffles and aim at the headrests. This works but I would wire them up and listen and find the best position. I would get them as deep and wide as you can if you're going in the kicks. You have a car similar to the size of mine so this should be fine.
Have you thought of building them into the "A" pillars? Just curious. Do they need a chamber to fire in (enclosure)?
I did think about the a pillars I'm just not skilled enough to put them there because I would have to really like create the entire pod from scratch.

This way I'm just basically taping the two things together covering it with a piece of fleece and then soaking the fiberglass into it to make sure that they stay together.

FYI I used sound deadener to tape both of the pieces together so it would keep the panel from rattling as well as providing a really solid adhesive.

I would wire everything together and test the sound but I literally have no receiver and don't have wiring run completely for the amps because I'm waiting on a distribution block to step down the power. So I don't have the infrastructure built in yet to do that.

Thanks though those are both awesome ideas I'll try to laser pointer see if I can find one.

Lewis King
 
A quick update:

I'm still working on a build I'm just kind of in this in between state where I'm deciding which way is going to be the best way to go next. I've done some cosmetics upgrades that are completely independent of the sound system.

The next big steps that I need to take are to fiberglass the kick panels for the three and a half speakers, figure out the amp rack, build the box, and a thousand little things that go into those that I'm forgetting.

I won't lie. I feel like I've reached a brick wall in the system design and I'm having a difficult time figuring out how to get around it. But that's part of the learning process.

I've been asking questions about other parts of the system, getting input from others. But today I realized that it's just a delay tactic so that I can justify not facing the real problems that I've run into.

The biggest issue is the amp rack. Because it has to be mounted vertically behind the subwoofer box so that when I open the trunk of the car is the first thing that I see. There isn't enough room in the trunk behind the box to mount everything horizontally.

It's going to have a false bottom so that the wiring can be run below it to the battery and the box.

Instead of being a single piece of wood it has to be a box measuring 30" wide x 16" tall x 4-5" deep. The plan is to secure it to the spare tire cover with bolts to keep it in place since there's not a way to bolt it directly to the back of the subwoofer box. It's always become a real problem.

But once I get it figured out I'll give you a guys an update on the progress and continue on to the finish.

Lewis King
 
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