Finding control wire behind head unit

[evamodel00]

Hey all,

Following up on a previous thread my speaker install turned into quite the project. i am going to be adding a 4-channel amplifier, 10'' subwoofer, a new sony head unit, and a front pair of component speakers.

I have never installed an amplifier but I doubt it will be too crazy. I've given all of crutchfield's documentation a read. Just had a question on the power wiring.

I know that I have to run the power wire/fuse to the positive battery terminal but I also know that I need to run the control wire up to the head unit as well. Crutchfield's documentation stated that I should tap into the wire and solder it in. However, the documentation stated "This wire is generally blue". I guess i'm a bit scared by that because what if my wiring happens to be the different one which contradicts "generally"? I have a 2013 lancer. Normally, I'd look at an electrical diagram to confirm this, but I have never had to work with a vehicle fuse box. Am I looking for anything specific? Any specific fuse number? type? A little advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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[shauncox26]

The new headunit will always have a blue or blue/white wire labeled remote or power antenna. This will turn amplifier on when u turn headunit on. It's as simple as that.

 

[evamodel00]

Ah ok so you are saying to tap into the remote wire that is attached to the head unit side correct? Instead of tapping into the wire coming from the fuse box (eliminating the need to find it)?

Sounds good, guess that is easy haha.

Thank you,

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

Since you are running an aftermarket head unit and amplifier, you can run all new wires to the HU and amp. The other way people do it is buy a wiring adapter kit (dash kit) for your car that allows you to plug your aftermarket head unit into your factory wiring. This will give you the power and remove turn on wires for your new head unit. Then you can just run some RCA's from the head unit to the amp, along with a remote turn on lead. Good quality RCA's have a built in remote-turn on lead molded into the insulation for the RCA's (Monster brand and others)

 

[evamodel00]

VWBOBBY,

Ah ok, I see what you are saying. I actually thought that "Dash Kits" really only had panels which filled in OEM radio space. I didn't know that a wiring loom/adapter came with them. I will definitely go with that, as I want to have the least amount of electrical work to do. Leaves less room for error since this is my first time.

Best Buy seems to sell the dash kits for individual vehicle model. If I purchase the specific vehicle model kit, I take it the adapter will on one side fit my OEM wires, and the other side has a universal plug for most aftermarket HUs?

My old amp was installed by best buy actually and I think that they did the remote turn-on lead from the HU to the Amp. I tried to look at it as much as i could to get an idea of how they did it in case I happen to want to do it myself some time.

Thanks,

 

[evamodel00]

Also one last question about wiring. The subwoofer that I bought was actually a 4 OHm DVC subwoofer.

My plan was to have the 1st 2 channels of my amp running my component speakers while the rear 2 channels would be bridged for the sub. However, because it is a 4 Ohm DVC, does that mean it would be an 8 ohm load coming from the amplifier, meaning way less power?

My amplifier is a polk audio pad4000 which I believe supports 2 ohm loads, however I can't really do that if the subwoofer is a 4ohm dvc correct? I checked out some wiring diagrams and for the DVC it showed an 8ohm load coming from the amp to subwoofer, and then 4 ohms between the terminal connections on the sub.

What would be the most efficient way to wire the sub to the rear 2 channels? I believe that Polk rated the RMS of 2 bridged channels at 360W which is exactly what I want seeing as the sub is rated for 350RMS. I'd like to get that power draw if possible.

Thank you!

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

I should clarify, SOME dash kits include a wiring harness. It seems that a lot of the cheap kits made these days are only the panels or bezels for fitting the head unit itself, no harness included. Most wiring kits are available on Ebay or any major car audio retailer. The wiring kit has the plug for your factory wiring and you splice your harness that came with your head unit into the adapter kit harness. Its a good idea to use solder and shrink tube, but I have used butt connectors in the past...

a 4ohm DVC sub can be wired to 2 ohms. You just wire the sub in parallel... + to + and - to -. Wiring in series would give you 8 ohms.

Since your amp is 2 ohm stable, you could wire the sub to 2 ohms to get the most power out of your amp. Is the 2 ohm for bridges or 2 ohms per channel? Some amps are stable to 2 ohms bridged, 1 ohm per channel. Other amps are stable to 2 ohms per channel and 4 ohms bridged....VERY Important to check first.

Here is the wiring diagram for your sub: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42#results