EricN CX-7 Build Log

[ls2poweredgoat 5,000+ posts]

im also curious why the 8awg for the h.u. ??? but very nice man looks real good so far keep up the great work.

I can't figure it out either.

A headunit only has a current draw of 10 amps, 18 gauge wire would be more than fine.

 

[audiobahnuser18 5,000+ posts]

yeah i know right ls2 i've never heard of such a thing either man. maybe he will tell us.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

8 gauge cuz I don't know what I'm doing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Please help me on my power layout if I have it wrong.

I currently have one 1/0 gauge going from battery to fused distro in the rear of vehicle. From that distro I will have two 4 gauge and one 8 gauge going to the three amps. I now need to get power from this distro to the HU and H100 processor. Please tell me how to do that.

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Ok, I'm going to use the wiring harness power for the HU. I'm going to put the processor in the rear of the vehicle and use some power from the distro.

No 8 gauge run! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Fiercetimbo17 10+ year member]

you could power your processor off the headunit too

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Thanks Fierce! If I can get the processor to the rear cargo area it is a shorter run to the distro, so I think that would be best.

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Today's Update:

Was out of RAAMmat, but UPS was delivering a roll. Problem is they don't get here until late afternoon and I took the day off.

So I decided to go ahead and remove all the door trims in prep for the RAAMmat since I was hoping to deaden all 4 doors today. After removing the trim I decided to go ahead and run the speaker wire to the front doors.

Ended up finding a nice place in the connectors that I could snake some 14 gauge wire through

Here is the connector removed:

Drilled using my Dremel and a regular drill bit. Tried act like I was a dentist and took it slow and steady so I didn't break through the other sides:

Put the connector back together and fed the speaker wire through:

Looks stock:

All done up front:

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Later in the day my roll of RAAMmat came!

Went straight to it starting on the front doors.

Ended up w/ two layers on the outer door and one layer on the inner door:

Followed it up w/ a layer of ensolite on the outer door:

Then put one layer on parts of the inner membrane and around the speaker hole:

Unfortunately that took up the whole **** roll, so now I'm $200 in on sound deadner and only have two doors and a front cabin to show! still have the entire rear cargo area and two back doors. Guess I'll order two more and some more ensolite as well...

 

[Rawr-DQ 10+ year member]

Hey it's a giant subwoofer!

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Today's update, received my 0-gauge cable so I wired up the engine. Added an 0-gauge ground and ran the power cable to the rear of the vehicle with an in-line fuse in the engine capartment.

Any fuse size recommendation? If I'm fusing the wire than I assume 250 would be ok for 0-gauge.

Pic of factory ground location:

Took it down to bare metal:

Made up my cabling with TechFlex and heatshrink:

Found the wiring hole in firewall (grey rubber in back):

Cut a hole in the rubber, ran the power wire down the driver's side complete w/ TechFlex. Installed in-line fuse holder on top of factory fuse holder. Added a Stinger negative battery terminal and connected factory grounds plus my 0-gauge to that.:

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Been swamped this week, but received my rolls of RAAMmat from Rick. That is one stand up guy, recommend highly!

So this week I need to finish complete sound deadening, but I'm also getting everything else ready.

Here is where I'm at on the amps. I have this MRV-T420 that puts out 110x2 @ 4ohms. That is appx 55w@8ohms, so seems perfect for the L1s.

The JL 300/4 is 75wx4 @ 4ohms for $389.00. I can get a ED Nine.4 that is 65wx4 @4ohm for $245.00. I could use this to power both the L1 and L6, but 65w to the L6 is low since it states 150w on HAT website.

However, if I use this to only drive the L6 I can bridge and get 150w and save $140.00 over the JL.

Thoughts?

 

[JayinMI 10+ year member]

I'm not a big fan of bridging the JL slash series amps, because it doesn't make any more power. I've also seen them have issues when run that way, so I try to avoid it. I used my 300/4 to run my mid/tweet combo actively, my 300/2 for my 8" midbasses and a 500/1 for my subs. The new revamp will probably be 300/4 and 500/1

Jay

 

[AK SloPok 10+ year member]

Excellent attention to detail. I am gonna keep my eyes on this one. For someone who "doesn't know what they are doing" you are doing awesome.

 

[Anh721 10+ year member]

Excellent attention to detail. I am gonna keep my eyes on this one. For someone who "doesn't know what they are doing" you are doing awesome.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Thanks guys for the kind words. I'll have an update later this evening of the deadening finally done. What a pain. 25+ hours just to get the car deadened //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Also decided on a final power strategy:

Hybrid Audio L1 tweeters powered by Alpine MRV-T420 (110 per channel)

Hybrid Audio L6 midbass powered by Elemental Designs Nine.4 (bridged 150 per channel)

Elemental Designs 13aV2 sub powered by Elemental Designs Nine.1 (bridged 1200w x 1)

Appx 1500w overall so it should be good!

Hope to get L6 speakers rings made and midbass speakers mounted this weekend along w/ starting the amp rack.

Stay tuned.