Dsp help

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That’s a valid criticism about not giving it a chance, but...I’m new to the dsp world and just want ease as well as the most of of the equipment I purchase no matter what the price is. Had a chat with a rep from Dayton and their statement basically is the dsp408 is every bit as adaptable to oem integration as well as being able to sum signals he referred me to page 8 in the manual. 

The manual is pretty subpar especially if you’re not familiar with a dsp 

http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/230-500-dayton-audio-dsp-408-user-manual(2).pdf

its really not good at signal summing nor fixing the factory head unit's signal and EQ curve at all. Honestly sounds like a mess straight out the box if the factory head unit is bad, a very clear audible difference if you do direct swaps from speaker level inputs vs the aptx dongle. Try it yourself and you'll see.  You'll find out that it doesnt matter if you are playing Store bought CDs on a factory head unit that is already messing up the signal  so bad that it'll sound like 128kbps mp3, no amount of processing or EQ can restore that resolution due to a p*ss poor internal dac. Vs compared to a Lossless APTX stream thats actually going through and being processed and losslessly converted by a higher quality dac from the DSP.   Reasons why SQ competitors still have to swap out their factory head units to something else is soley because of that reason.  Sh*t input signal, no matter how much you try to polish and refine it, it'll have its limitations and will always be your weakest link.

Only a rare few factory head units output a clear unprocessed signal which need special Maestro connectors. 
 

thats why I made the statement that even with lossless store bought CDs through the low level or hi level inputs to the dsp, the quality was way worse than a 320kbps aptx stream to the dongle by FAR.  It sounds even better when you use lossless streaming services like tidal.