DIY fuse block

I would use wood instead. Metal to metal posts might screw things up.

Scrap wood, some threaded rod, nuts,washers.....I bet you can make one for about 10 bucks or less.

 
SOB...I just saw someone made a fuseblock from scrap wood not too long ago and now I can't find it. it looked good too....stained bottom with 3 fuses and a small piece of lexan cover over it.

 
I wouldnt use wood. Wood can hold moisture like what we experienced one time using wood as battery straps to hold 12 batteries in place. The wood laid across both polarity terminals when moving them one time and shot straight up out of the car. Left burn mark on the wood yet there was no visible water on the wood. It was later discovered wood is a terrible electrical insulator.

I'd use Fiberboard as it's cheap and denser than the wood that's available at hardware store.

If you are going to use the bolt to bolt fuse block, make sure the washers and bolts you use can handle the heat associated with the connections used.

 
Shizzzon, its really you?!

Wood...because it's cheap, and some people have scraps laying around. A little water protectant on it should be good. And...fuse blocks belong inside the vehicle, I wouldn't chance it in the engine bay.

Medium

Density

Fiberboard

 
Ours was in the back of the vehicle. Somehow moisture seeped into the wood with everything sealed.

We believe a hidden air leak somewhere in the rear hatch allowed the wood to absorb the moisture in the air and hold it.

 
IT was odd though.. it could poor rain.. no water in the car.. No water anywhere ever..

But the wood had to be holding water for it to be conductive. This is why we moved away from using wood as it's dangerous.

Fiberboard, i cant remember the abbreviated classification for it.. something 3 or 4 is specifically designed to be great electrical insulator. It comes in red and will EAT through saw blades and drill bits if attempting to cut through it like wood.

 
Sorry for the bad drawing. But I have mdf laying around and cans of spray on bed liner or plasti dip which is a rubber pretty much no? I can spray the mdf with it will be mounted to my back of the back seat. I want to run two leads to side I and fuse across and connect 4 amps to side b. Or should I just use 4 fuses at that point? Here's what I have in my head. Would steel bar from Home Depot work or no?

5x6e4y.jpg


 

---------- Post added at 06:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 AM ----------

 

Like a hybrid fuse block/busbar

 

---------- Post added at 06:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 AM ----------

 

And I have a ton of tools at my disposal to use. Just not material.

 
So would stainless bolts and nuts/washers work? Will be using a ppi 900.4 ct 75.4 for mids and highs and either one cab 1600

At .5(yes they can run .5 but I wouldn't recommend it) or maybe two cabs strapped so each amp is seeing 1ohm final. Running two d2 15s

 
Steel "works" but raw steel isn't ideal. That's why i mentioned aluminum instead.

If you go steel, at the minimum, it should be zinc plated.

If you decide to use MDF, have you ever painted MDF before? It's ridiculously porous. You will have to paint it over the course of some days to let the paint properly sit in before the next coat. I think this method is involving too much over-engineering for something too simple.

 
^^thank you for the advice. And yes I've painted mdf and have plenty of time to work on it. I do maintanace for 3 schools so I have a shop and all the tools needed and figured why not build it vs buy one. And I can do aluminum for sure.

 
Ok. I was also going to use a layer of rubber in between the back of the seat and the wood just for added safety. So aluminum for the bars and stainless bolts? I may be able to find copper unless the stainless is justs as good. Sorry. Noob when it comes to my metals. Going to spend a few with google and do some research

 
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