Different door speakers

I did connect them my self and I went back and checked the wires and there fine only the 2 front are doing that the rest are fine so I'm guessing they only work when they get so much power
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---------- Post added at 07:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:20 PM ----------

 

It's a 2014

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It don't work that way. Something is wrong somewhere. If that was the case no radio would ever work at volume 1.

 
You drunk gramps, they cost 55 dollars for the pair but they arent rated 55 rms. They are 100 each, You throwing at best 15% of what they want to perform. They do fine in the proper environment and proper tune with proper power. I had 145 watts to each and when the kick drum snaps, you feel a deep, sharp kick piercing through your lungs.
watch the videos on my below post just to see whats the BARE minimum in order to get your door mids to sound half way decent.

No1UhL.jpg
dude u looking at wrong speakers i looked it up to be sure before i replied.. COAX

 
You drunk gramps, they cost 55 dollars for the pair but they arent rated 55 rms. They are 100 each, You throwing at best 15% of what they want to perform. They do fine in the proper environment and proper tune with proper power. I had 145 watts to each and when the kick drum snaps, you feel a deep, sharp kick piercing through your lungs.
watch the videos on my below post just to see whats the BARE minimum in order to get your door mids to sound half way decent.

No1UhL.jpg
Hey take it easy of paw paw..

 
They would still play. Do you have a digital multi meter? They are a few bucks at harbor freight. Get one and make sure they are not blown.
I probably won't habe time till the weekend but wouldn't it be odd that both of them blew at the same time?

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I probably won't habe time till the weekend but wouldn't it be odd that both of them blew at the same time?
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don't worry about the multimeter. im almost positive that the factory signal has a slope around 300hz and draws the bass and subbass to the rear. you can go on a wild goose chase . ill bet you my bottomw dollar that is the problem combined with probably 20 watts ms to the driver.

want to know if im full of ****? pull the drive out hte door and connect it to the rear deck speaker leads and i bet it sound better in hte bass region!

 
don't worry about the multimeter. im almost positive that the factory signal has a slope around 300hz and draws the bass and subbass to the rear. you can go on a wild goose chase . ill bet you my bottomw dollar that is the problem combined with probably 20 watts ms to the driver.
want to know if im full of ****? pull the drive out hte door and connect it to the rear deck speaker leads and i bet it sound better in hte bass region!
That makes sense but that doesn't really explain why they are cutting on and off

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If I get 8 ohm speakers it wouldn't hurt even if they were 4?
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Honestly man i think your wasting time in money going in that direction buddy.

if you want something that's going to work properly its going to take some cash and work. nothing going to really sound right without getting a full range signal and some additional power. trust me your going to spend less money in hte long run doing it they way we suggest.

 
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