Did this poor install lead to my speakers blowing??

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

This is what needed to happen with the install if the 8s are the only drivers in the door.

A strong a$$ mount needed to be made. Good deadener needed to go on the door skin as much as possible. The frame needed to be sealed with deadener, big holes needed some kind of cover(ABS, sheetmetal).

That's it. Lay foam where needed and brace where needed once it's playing.

Set bandpass 80-300hz.

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

ZR800-CW - Car Audio - Evolution® - ZR - Mid-Bass Driver - JL Audio

IMO you're lucky that they'll even repair them for 100$. If you look at the JL website over 125W voids the warranty.

This is why we follow instructions and use our equipment within its intended limits.

Check page 3 of the manual for these speakers: http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/ZR800_CW_MAN.pdf?1305784109

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Your just making one excuse over another. I'm talking about car audio install....not roofing or anything ******* else. Some people are good at other things than just one thing. Just saves time and $$.

Perhaps you can pull your head out of your *** and come to realization of the things were telling you here rather than just ramble on....isn't gonna solve the issue.

(waits for another stupid reply)

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Now you have to change your fancy shmancy sig. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Why? I'm sure these 8's will be great once installed correctly.

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

This is what needed to happen with the install if the 8s are the only drivers in the door.
A strong a$$ mount needed to be made. Good deadener needed to go on the door skin as much as possible. The frame needed to be sealed with deadener, big holes needed some kind of cover(ABS, sheetmetal).

That's it. Lay foam where needed and brace where needed once it's playing.

Set bandpass 80-300hz.

Roger that, and this is exactly what I initially expected: a professional expert and custom installation.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Pay me 100 bucks. I'll install those speakers for ya correctly.

(Not hard wire up the speakers then screw them in place. Done)

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Why? I'm sure these 8's will be great once installed correctly.

Because earlier you said you identified the 8" as a weak link. Why put it back in? And why use an 8" at all if you're only going to play down to 80hz? You can do that with a 5" driver. Playing those subs up into the male vocal range are ya?
Did you watch the vids I provided in the link? Hear how low those 6's were playing on less than 50 watts?

I just think your whole approach is flawed. Your'e reaping the benefits of your sit-back-and-pay-everyone-to-do-it mindset.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Would the speakers have blown if the install wasn't botched? No, because there would be no need to take them to the extreme of (useless) tuning. The tuning was useless because no amount of tuning could make then sound good/loud (I know because I tried every possibility). As others have said, the ZR-800's would have "shaken the door apart" and I would naturally would have throttled back, but they were never even remotely close to that level of power/performance.

Thing is, bad install or not, the person that turned the gain up was not the store, it was you, sounds like you didn't even set it with a multi-meter and just cranked it instead. Just remember for next time, if you crank it up a decent amount and there's no midbass, then there's already something wrong with the install which needs to be addressed. Do not continually boost and crank things up because gains are more than likely at its maximum point already. Just got to own up to the mistake and move past it. Try some different 8s instead.

I'm willing to bet however there was a major phase issue with the speaker having improper polarity from a manufacturer defect or something else phase related if your midbass gap is that huge. I've had speakers in tiny boxes that still played midbass loud, just not that low, even with EQ. The main thing that a small door enclosure like that would affect is the frequency response, not necessarily output because speakers in a small box have a heavy lung/chest piercing/punching snap kick from my experiences. Its called a low QTS style of enclosure and it should still work, just in a different way.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Because earlier you said you identified the 8" as a weak link. Why put it back in? And why use an 8" at all if you're only going to play down to 80hz? You can do that with a 5" driver. Playing those subs up into the male vocal range are ya?
Did you watch the vids I provided in the link? Hear how low those 6's were playing on less then 50 watts?

I just think your whole approach is flawed. Your'e reaping the benefits of your sit-back-and-pay-everyone-to-do-it mindset.

Those ZRs can get retarded.

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Your just making one excuse over another. I'm talking about car audio install....not roofing or anything ******* else. Some people are good at other things than just one thing. Just saves time and $$.
Perhaps you can pull your head out of your *** and come to realization of the things were telling you here rather than just ramble on....isn't gonna solve the issue.

(waits for another stupid reply)

You have offered no actual advice except:

1. Repeating me when I said there is no best speaker

2. Saying your speakers are better

3. Saying I should have installed it myself

Not sure if you specifically mentioned this whole thing is my fault and the crappy install by the money taking business is blameless, but I've heard that a lot. But half of Americans are on the left side of the Bell Curve too.

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Because earlier you said you identified the 8" as a weak link. Why put it back in? And why use an 8" at all if you're only going to play down to 80hz? You can do that with a 5" driver. Playing those subs up into the male vocal range are ya?
Did you watch the vids I provided in the link? Hear how low those 6's were playing on less then 50 watts?

I just think your whole approach is flawed. Your'e reaping the benefits of your sit-back-and-pay-everyone-to-do-it mindset.

The flimsy reverberating false wall of Dynamat and resulting lack of air space (the installation!) is why the 8's sound bad; the speakers themselves are great and will be once the Dynamat wall is removed. Plus I have fiberglass door panels cut and built specifically for these ZR-800 speakers.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Those ZRs can get retarded.

I believe it. Really, any 8" should unless it's PA gear.

You have offered no actual advice except:1. Repeating me when I said there is no best speaker

2. Saying your speakers are better

3. Saying I should have installed it myself

Not sure if you specifically mentioned this whole thing is my fault and the crappy install by the money taking business is blameless, but I've heard that a lot. But half of Americans are on the left side of the Bell Curve too.

I told you I had no intention of helping you. I based that on how you responded to the other members here when they attempted to. I'm beating up on you because you strike me as the type with too much money and not enough know-how. You'll always be paying someone to do things for you and complaining about whatever.
I think you're angry that you don't know what to do with some pretty decent kit but your pride is getting in the way of any good advice coming your way.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Check page 3 of the manual for these speakers: http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/ZR800_CW_MAN.pdf?1305784109

Which says "power levels momentarily exceeding 200watts per woofer."

Emphasis added by me. This does not disregard the power ratings that are clearly posted on their website (and in the manual) and the disclaimer than over 125W voids the warranty.

I repeat you're lucky they are helping you out at all if you're running them beyond their advertised limits AND you tampered with the gains.

Sadly it seems you have not learned a lesson here but carry on. Do whatever you like to those doors and those woofers will still burn up with 150W continuous power.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

The flimsy reverberating false wall of Dynamat and resulting lack of air space (the installation!) is why the 8's sound bad; the speakers themselves are great and will be once the Dynamat wall is removed. Plus I have fiberglass door panels cut and built specifically for these ZR-800 speakers.

Cool. So why the thread, again?
Yeah, that was rhetorical. I know the answer.

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

I believe it. Really, any 8" should unless it's PA gear.
I told you I had no intention of helping you. I based that on how you responded to the other members here when they attempted to. I'm beating up on you because you strike me as the type with too much money and not enough know-how. You'll always be paying someone to do things for you and complaining about whatever.

I think you're angry that you don't know what to do with some pretty decent kit but your pride is getting in the way of any good advice coming your way.

So you have nothing to offer except jealousy and resentment? Go to bed.

Christ, it's like I paid for a high performance transmission but the shop filled it with water. I notice it isn't running right and blip the throttle and it grenades. Then I'm blamed. Uh...