Did this poor install lead to my speakers blowing??

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

The ZR800s are tough to beat as a midbass. They will shake your doors apart if the install is off. I had 150rms per mid but I'm not a tard.

I've heard that before but have yet to see anything similar... probably because my install *****. How did you have yours crossed over?

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

Since you seem to know everything why dont you fix it yourself?

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Since you seem to know everything why dont you fix it yourself?

1. I shouldn't have to because the biggest and "best" install shop in the entire Midwest United States should know how to do something as simple as install a set of door speakers without turning it into the world's worst "sealed" box.

2. I paid a lot of money for "professionals" to do it so I don't have to because I work and do not have the time to do it myself.

3. I want the shop to own up to their fault and correct it. I'm tired of businesses automatically refuting any and all liability 100% of the time unless forced with extreme measures. I was hoping some agreement on here would provide me some "backup" but instead I got internet experts talking about gains and installers with the same liability limiting agenda as the shop I am dealing with.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

No. Clipping is a thing on lists. It's recommended by Rockford Fosgate and anyone who actually wants their MUSIC (not test tones) to sound good and loud!
How to Properly Set Your Gains (Gain Tutorial)

I've tuned with no Gain Overlap and it *****. It's completely adequate for my grandma tho.

Wow....this is def sig worthy.

Your more dumb than you reply on here and stubborn to say the least w/o listening to any of us who actually have exp in this hobby.

 

[murph 10+ year member]

No. According to JL's manual for these speakers:
Infinite Baffle (which is what I was told these speakers are installed as):

As a dedicated mid-bass speaker operating

above 50 Hz (with active filtering) the

ZR800-CW can be safely operated at

power levels momentarily exceeding 200

watts per woofer. When operating below

50 Hz as a true woofer, power should be

limited to no more than 125 watts per

woofer in infinite baffle applications.

Yes I am running active and crossed over between 80-300Hz at 24db LR (sometimes to 350Hz; I adjust a lot because the sound ***** and I try to make it better).

My DSP tells me my headunit is good until 37 out of 40 on volume, so I do not exceed that.

I never use any sort of bass boost/loudness/etc.

Knowledge check: when you say 125 or 150 watts, is that at 0db attenuated input signal? Is that at 3/4 volume on the headunit, or at the point of clipping (37 in my case)? What amount of gain overlap do you recommend on these midbass drivers in this application?

Personally I would set the gain with the head unit at 35. It will give you more volume play. As far as gain overlap until you figure out what is causing what I would do between -3 and -5 DB.

Now for the sake of you and whoever installed this horrible setup, PLEASE HAVE THEM FIX IT. I mean for goD sakes do they even know what the hell an infinite baffle is? The rear behind the speaker looks far from infinite. I think you got your ass handed to you buy the products you bought and the installation you received.

You do have nice products but, for 2k you could have had so much more.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Ok I'm gonna say this once...

There is no best. Period.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

You messed with their settings. That's not their fault, it's yours. If you were unhappy with the performance, you should have voiced your concern.
Judging by the fact that you paid to have your install done, you should not have messed with it. That is not the best equipment, contrary to what you might believe.

Approved.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

1. I shouldn't have to because the biggest and "best" install shop in the entire Midwest United States should know how to do something as simple as install a set of door speakers without turning it into the world's worst "sealed" box.2. I paid a lot of money for "professionals" to do it so I don't have to because I work and do not have the time to do it myself.

3. I want the shop to own up to their fault and correct it. I'm tired of businesses automatically refuting any and all liability 100% of the time unless forced with extreme measures. I was hoping some agreement on here would provide me some "backup" but instead I got internet experts talking about gains and installers with the same liability limiting agenda as the shop I am dealing with.

Read JL's manual and warranty information. Every single manufacturer states they do not cover blown speakers.

You got exactly what you asked for on this forum. You got an honest answer by people who have been competing and experimenting for years. Instead of listening you try to argue to prove a point you cannot. To bad so sad. Sometimes it goes your way and sometimes it doesnt. Learn and move on.

Fact: You messed with the shops settings absolving them of all responsibility. The second you touched it, it became your fault.

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Approved.

You recommend doing nothing? Just living with crappy midbass that you paid a lot of money for?

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Personally I would set the gain with the head unit at 35. It will give you more volume play. As far as gain overlap until you figure out what is causing what I would do between -3 and -5 DB.
Now for the sake of you and whoever installed this horrible setup, PLEASE HAVE THEM FIX IT. I mean for goD sakes do they even know what the hell an infinite baffle is? The rear behind the speaker looks far from infinite. I think you got your ass handed to you buy the products you bought and the installation you received.

You do have nice products but, for 2k you could have had so much more.

Ok I'm gonna say this once...


There is no best. Period.

But... Iz awl JL Audioz stuffs. Is best, no?

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Read JL's manual and warranty information. Every single manufacturer states they do not cover blown speakers.
You got exactly what you asked for on this forum. You got an honest answer by people who have been competing and experimenting for years. Instead of listening you try to argue to prove a point you cannot. To bad so sad. Sometimes it goes your way and sometimes it doesnt. Learn and move on.

Fact: You messed with the shops settings absolving them of all responsibility. The second you touched it, it became your fault.

There were no "shop's settings". No shop has ever made any settings to my car stereo system (amps, DSP, headunit).

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Guess some people are afraid to speak up. Esp after dumping tons of $$ into an install, I'd say something. You had the opportunity to....why didn't ya?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

i set my midrange amps with a 0db tone and its more than loud enough..

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

You recommend doing nothing? Just living with crappy midbass that you paid a lot of money for?

No, I approved of his post. I thought it was helpful. Have you seen some of the other stuff he poasts?
Anyway, yeah... The second you decided to to start fiddling with settings. Got yourself into this mess. Diddn't ya?

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Ok I'm gonna say this once...


There is no best. Period.

We can say that again.

As far as ZR-800's not being the best: there is no best. But they are quite adequate IF installed correctly. The search for the best woofer is a case of diminishing returns... especially in mobile audio.