Did this poor install lead to my speakers blowing??

Status
Not open for further replies.
Your pathetic membrane just seems unnecessary.
Not sure what you are saying about DC. I mean, AC technically is DC with varying voltages and frequencies... But then it really isn't DC but AC. Dude I work on radar and missile guidance systems I don't think you are going to school me on electronics theory or application.
I know you're not sure what I'm saying about DC. But you just keep playing semantics. I'm going to bed and I will reflect upon how jealous I am about all of your accomplishments.
Good luck with that great looking install.

 
I know you're not sure what I'm saying about DC. But you just keep playing semantics. I'm going to bed and I will reflect upon how jealous I am about all of your accomplishments.
Good luck with that great looking install.
Dream of me. Just don't touch yourself.

 
i set my midrange amps with a 0db tone and its more than loud enough..
Me too, but we are way more sensitive in midrange. I'm running -12dB input from DSP to my amps and have run -18 without a whole lot of perceived difference (for midrange channels only).

 
What's momentary? I'm not running DC through these. It also says "if played above 50Hz" and I'm crossed over at 80hz... But there is still confusion: no frequency below 50Hz? What crossover slope are we talking about here???
JL Audio is not very precise with the power ratings and crossover settings used to achieve those ratings (which would be extremely helpful for all their speakers).
You burned up your woofers because you put too much power into them. It really is that simple and whatever JL meant obviously isn't what you attempted to do or you would still have working woofers instead of arguing on here trying to get us to cosign your bullshit.

Have you noticed that not one single person has come in here saying "yeah, that shop did something wrong and that's why they broke"? Do you reckon that's a conspiracy or a coincidence?

 
Guess some people are afraid to speak up. Esp after dumping tons of $$ into an install, I'd say something. You had the opportunity to....why didn't ya?
I overlooked this post earlier.

Like I said, I had just gotten the car back after a week. I just got new a-pillars installed with new 4", tweeters, and door panels with the 8"s. I was excited to take it home and tune it, which I did... Over and over. Never could get the 8's to sound great. But it couldn't be the install! Maybe the speakers aren't that great? Maybe 8's aren't much different than 6's. I wasn't sure. Time flies. Not really feeling like going back to the shop and probably having them try to **** me like businesses do (that's what they all do), or being without a car and managing a rental or something. Keep tuning. It can't be the install. Buzz... Blown speaker! Buzz! 2nd blown speaker in same week (happened during hottest week of late summer). Just shut them off in DSP and lived with it for a few months because I'M BUSY but finally make an appointment (Minnesotians love their appointments) and they pull the speakers and I finally see behind the speaker at the crap install and Dynamat Wall.

 
U

You burned up your woofers because you put too much power into them. It really is that simple and whatever JL meant obviously isn't what you attempted to do or you would still have working woofers instead of arguing on here trying to get us to cosign your bullshit.
Have you noticed that not one single person has come in here saying "yeah, that shop did something wrong and that's why they broke"? Do you reckon that's a conspiracy or a coincidence?
You're right, the woofers would still be working... awfully.

"Whatever JL meant" is right. Why is there so much ambiguity regarding the recommended/allowed power? Just give us a straight answer: 150 watts RMS using a 50Hz sine wave at 0dB level with a LR band pass filter between 80-400hz at 24db/octive (125 watts if using 12db/oct).

Something like that leaves no question.

125 watts RMS with a 6db/octive crossover likely produces way more average power than 150 watts RMS with 24db crossovers if crossed at the same point... Yet JL is silent on the issue.

 
Like I said just run them at about 100 watts give or take a little and you will be happy. Once those doors are done right on that power you will be fine. Speakers are more finicky than subwoofers because of the wide range of frequencies. If everything is fine at that point then run a little more power to them if you so desire.

 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

About this thread

Ijcobra

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
Ijcobra
Joined
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
97
Views
4,825
Last reply date
Last reply from
whitedragon551
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top