Did this poor install lead to my speakers blowing??

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

So you have nothing to offer except jealousy and resentment? Go to bed.
Christ, it's like I paid for a high performance transmission but the shop filled it with water. I notice it isn't running right and blip the throttle and it grenades. Then I'm blamed. Uh...

C'mon sweety, don't be that way. Take a little responsibility for your actions and get over it. Then you can concentrate on what you've learned and make nice with all of us who took the time to humor your stupidity.

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

Which says "power levels momentarily exceeding 200watts per woofer."
Emphasis added by me. This does not disregard the power ratings that are clearly posted on their website (and in the manual) and the disclaimer than over 125W voids the warranty.

I repeat you're lucky they are helping you out at all if you're running them beyond their advertised limits AND you tampered with the gains.

Sadly it seems you have not learned a lesson here but carry on. Do whatever you like to those doors and those woofers will still burn up with 150W continuous power.

What's momentary? I'm not running DC through these. It also says "if played above 50Hz" and I'm crossed over at 80hz... But there is still confusion: no frequency below 50Hz? What crossover slope are we talking about here???

JL Audio is not very precise with the power ratings and crossover settings used to achieve those ratings (which would be extremely helpful for all their speakers).

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

What's momentary? I'm not running DC through these. It also says "if played above 50Hz" and I'm crossed over at 80hz... But there is still confusion: no frequency below 50Hz? What crossover slope are we talking about here???
JL Audio is not very precise with the power ratings and crossover settings used to achieve those ratings (which would be extremely helpful for all their speakers).

You are sending DC with varying voltages and frequencies to your speakers.
Here, let me help you so you will go away. Look up aperiodic membranes. That is the solution to your problem.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

You have offered no actual advice except:1. Repeating me when I said there is no best speaker

2. Saying your speakers are better

3. Saying I should have installed it myself

Not sure if you specifically mentioned this whole thing is my fault and the crappy install by the money taking business is blameless, but I've heard that a lot. But half of Americans are on the left side of the Bell Curve too.

Please point out where I said my speakers were better....

Your doing it again...rambling on about useless BS. Do you ever stfu?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Continuing to bitchh about this whole thing on this forum isn't gonna solve anything.

Rather, you should have asked for advice from us who have real world exp in just about all aspects of car audio.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Guess an email to Manville Smith is needed if JL Audio isn't holding up to their specs and power ratings because one customer got the "fiddle with it bug" up his sleeve....lol

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

You are sending DC with varying voltages and frequencies to your speakers.
Here, let me help you so you will go away. Look up aperiodic membranes. That is the solution to your problem.

Unless you are trying to tell me my "Dynamat Wall" is acting as a a periodic membrane, which it is not, I don't see the relevance.

What is going to happen is I'm going to make the shop rip the Dynamat Wall out (or, repurpose into appropriate areas inside the door like it's supposed to be). Then the woofer will be able to use the entire door cavity (like JL recommends), and secondly not have a melty flimsy chaos bringing Wall of Dynamat causing all sorts of frequency and phase issues.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

mo·men·tar·i·ly

[ˌmōmənˈterəlē]

ADVERB

for a very short time:

Duh

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Unless you are trying to tell me my "Dynamat Wall" is acting as a a periodic membrane, which it is not, I don't see the relevance.
What is going to happen is I'm going to make the shop rip the Dynamat Wall out (or, repurpose into appropriate areas inside the door like it's supposed to be). Then the woofer will be able to use the entire door cavity (like JL recommends), and secondly not have a melty flimsy chaos bringing Wall of Dynamat causing all sorts of frequency and phase issues.

I was telling you to remove the wall and adopt the aperiodic membrane approach, you dipshit.
Learned something on that last post, though, didn't you? With the DC? Eh? Will your pride allow you to admit it?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I was telling you to remove the wall and adopt the aperiodic membrane approach, you dipshit.

Doubt he knows what the apreodic membrane is/does since they were on the car audio market for a very short time.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

What is an "aperiodic membrane?" - CarAudioForum.com

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

mo·men·tar·i·ly[ˌmōmənˈterəlē]

ADVERB

for a very short time:

Duh

Well that clears it up. Kinda relative tho isn't it? Milliseconds? The time of one bass beat? 5 minutes? The entire human history? All can be relatively described as short or momentary.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

aka peak power.....which most companies use along with reg rms (continuous) Capeche?

 

[Ijcobra 10+ year member]

I was telling you to remove the wall and adopt the aperiodic membrane approach, you dipshit.
Learned something on that last post, though, didn't you? With the DC? Eh? Will your pride allow you to admit it?

Your pathetic membrane just seems unnecessary.

Not sure what you are saying about DC. I mean, AC technically is DC with varying voltages and frequencies... But then it really isn't DC but AC. Dude I work on radar and missile guidance systems I don't think you are going to school me on electronics theory or application.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Doubt he knows what the apreodic membrane is/does since they were on the car audio market for a very short time.

No doubt. Could work in this situation, though. Would be easy enough to try with what's going on in that door. Show the driver more apparent volume and let it play an octave lower with about 100 watts. Done deal, much smoother sound.