Deadening

Which one you use or like the best?

  • Damplifier

    Votes: 42 43.8%
  • Raamat

    Votes: 17 17.7%
  • Fatmat

    Votes: 7 7.3%
  • Dynamat Extreme

    Votes: 25 26.0%
  • B-Quiet Ultimate

    Votes: 2 2.1%
  • eDead v1SE

    Votes: 3 3.1%

  • Total voters
    96
Anecdote is around every turn, but sadly it means nothing to the performance and value-oriented buyer.
So is delusional thinking.

Having said that, I like Dynamat Extreme cauz the shit's extreme....says right on it.
No man, it's Xtreme - that's way beyond any word you can start with an "e".

 
I'll answer.

Second Skin

Thickest foil in the industry. Thickest material in the in the industry when considering the Pro. Adhesive like no other. I use it, love it, will never use anything else. Best thing since sliced bread.

 
I'll answer.
Second Skin

Thickest foil in the industry. Thickest material in the in the industry when considering the Pro. Adhesive like no other. I use it, love it, will never use anything else. Best thing since sliced bread.
Damp Pro is not the thickest in the industry. eDuh has a thicker one. As inferior as it my be to Damp Pro, its still thicker. Thickness doesn't necessarily account for much.
 
super unbiased here, but if I said I bought Damp pro and said it didnt work, sux, etc...Nobody would believe me, they would assume user error not bad product..But if I get Edead and it works, Im lucky or I would get bashed?? Sounds like nut-hugging to me...Rep is everything and since somebody made a test 4 years ago using stupid simulations, makes 1 that much better then the other?? I mean who the fawk would go through that much temp change in ur car...I see soooo many blown DD and AQ subs, yet they are a big forum boner...Blown=Failure..

 
Good point and with that said, this is a never ending battle about what will perform best. I have good luck honestly with most deadening, from Hushmat, Second skin, Peel and Seel, Fatmat, Dynamat, stinger and others and really didn't have any fail on me in various installs in not only my cars, but others I helped do. I guess it is all about prep time and just taking your time on the install and doing it right.

To me it is about price and I could have done my whole car in fatmat and been happy with it, but I was skeptical at first and bought a trunk kit from Second skin and it is nice, but I can't see a huge difference in it besides it being easier to install besides cutting my hands on it that is.

And even if I doubled up all on fatmat, I could have done majority of my car with that, it still would have been cheaper.........a lot cheaper than if I had just second skin in my car.

Anyway, I guess this is all IMO, but I have yet to see any deader fial me and I have been through some of it, but I never did any testing like Rudy has, because honestly I don't have that kind of time.

He may be right and I am sure there are better qualities from one to another, but I can't see them. All of them have done the trick for me, which helped stop rattles and sound coming in. My car, which is loud from the factory is very quiet now.........for the most part. I still get vibrations in the trunk, but mild compared to before. Oh and my second skin is in the trunk. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
super unbiased here, but if I said I bought Damp pro and said it didnt work, sux, etc...Nobody would believe me, they would assume user error not bad product..But if I get Edead and it works, Im lucky or I would get bashed?? Sounds like nut-hugging to me...Rep is everything and since somebody made a test 4 years ago using stupid simulations, makes 1 that much better then the other?? I mean who the fawk would go through that much temp change in ur car...I see soooo many blown DD and AQ subs, yet they are a big forum boner...Blown=Failure..
Nobody should pay much attention to claims that follow the form: "I used X and it worked for me". The fact is that almost anything will be at least slightly better than nothing so any single person's subjective impressions of a single product don't mean a lot. The important question is: does it do enough to be worth the cost and effort and is the product reliable enough to consider using in your vehicle.

No car is going to be exposed to 400°F and it's very hard for me to believe that anybody honestly believes that was the point of those tests. That would be a more valid criticism if the samples were only exposed to 400°F, but they were heated to a range of temperatures starting with a level that can easily occur at the vehicle's sheet metal, during the summer, in the sun.

There are two good reasons to heat test polymers - like the adhesive layer used for most sound deadening mats. At the time, many sellers (including ED) were being intentionally vague or outright dishonest about the composition of their products. Heating to 180°F-200°F very quickly demonstrated which were asphalt and which were butyl. None of that testing would have been needed if sellers (including ED) had been forthcoming about this important "detail" in the first place.

The second reason to heat test polymers and the reason serious scientists and manufacturers do it is that polymers react to heat in a way that is very similar to the way they respond to time. Heating gives us insight into how a material will age.

Once we pass the minimum threshold of whether or not these things are what the sellers say they are and whether or not they meet basic usability requirements for the purpose for which they are being sold, we need to evaluate damping performance. Consider that for a minute. These things needed to be tested to see if they were actually what the sellers claimed they were and if they could survive when used as directed //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

There are standardized test for this but they are very expensive and it doesn't seem likely that anyone will provide the results for us. Since some people will automatically assume these results are rigged and others will attribute more validity to them than they deserve, I'll just say that these represent RTA readings taking from 12" square samples of 22 gauge steel mounted in a closed termination configuration to the front of a sealed chamber that contained the measurement microphone. The front surface of the sheet metal was hit with pink noise. These graphs show the untreated steel blank (top line at the panel's resonant frequency in the 50-100Hz range) and then with 25% coverage.

Before people start looking at these results and interpreting them to mean that all you need is twice as much eDead or 3 times as much P&S to equal the performance of Damplifier Pro, it doesn't work that way. Vibration damping is much more a minimum threshold meeting process than it is linear. I got to 25% coverage in three stages - 8 1/3%, 16 2/3%, 25%, using 3 2"x6" strips added one at a time to the center of the panel. Doubling coverage yields something like a 1/2 dB improvement meaning that you would really need something like 6 times as much eDead v1SE² and 8 times as much P&S (or eDead V1, FatMat, etc.).

These results are an attempt to isolate the vibration damping performance of these products - which is what they should be used for. Attenuation at the panel's resonant frequency and throughout the frequency range should be of interest. There were other products that performed very well in these tests, but since I'm responding to an eDead v. Damplifier Pro post, I kept it to those two products with asphalt P&S thrown in for fun.

A few final notes. I've already addressed the fallacy of using individual subjective results to evaluate these products - if you used ICIX for your information, you would conclude that whichever version of eDead was being sold at the time was the best product on the market. Interestingly, I've read many such reviews over the years and I can't remember ever seeing one that followed your hypothetical:

"but if I said I bought Damp pro and said it didnt work, sux, etc.". I've seen many posts that say that for other products including eDead.

Before jumping on a bandwagon that seeks to dismiss any inquiry as stupid or biased, consider the motives of your sources. I actually thought these tests were pretty stupid when I did them and didn't expect them to do any more than demonstrate who was telling the truth and who was lying - until I was contacted by several polymer scientists and NVH engineers who were kind enough to walk me through the ways in which what I had done reproduced their stand testing methodologies.

Peel & Seal - ~2.5 dB reduction at the panel's resonant frequency, very little attenuation at other points in the spectrum:

ps.gif


eDead V1SE² - ~3.5 dB reduction at the panel's resonant frequency, limited attenuation at other points in the spectrum:

v1se2.gif


Second Skin Damplifier Pro - ~7 dB reduction at the panel's resonant frequency, more attenuation at other points in the spectrum than the others:

dp.gif


 
I mean who the fawk would go through that much temp change in ur car..
While your car might not get to 400*F, those high temps can be a somewhat valid indicator of the product's performance.

CLD mat (constrained layer damping) has an optimal operating temp at room temp. If you graph it's performance you will see a bell shaped curve with damping loss dropping off at least 5x on either end. Here in MN, it goes from 20* below F to 95* F. In a car door that's probably -40*F to 150*F.

This is the reason why CLD mat has limited apps in a vehicle. Problem is: the majority don't know any better and use it as a one-stop problem solver.

 
this is a never ending battle about what will perform best.
That's because people continue to lump all of these products together, look at how much coverage they can get for the $$$, and generally don't understand how they work in the first place.

It's not a never ending battle, it's never ending confusion. We've (well mostly me) already defined "deadener" in terms of the what it's supposed to consist of and what it has to do to qualify. Problem is, a lot of these so-called "deadeners" do NOT qualify.

 
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