Couple questions about IA Li

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Jakeeck
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Im not sure how that particular amp holds up when it comes to making "rated" power, but if it holds true to those ratings, you will need to order a D4, but the warranty on the sub will still be shot.

 
Im not sure how that particular amp holds up when it comes to making "rated" power, but if it holds true to those ratings, you will need to order a D4, but the warranty on the sub will still be shot.
why would the warranty be shot?

 
because it is rated at 600 watts RMS and when you go above that, the warranty is shot.
ok and why would i need a 4 ohm instead of a 2 ohm.. how do those 2 options relate to an amp?

 
ok and why would i need a 4 ohm instead of a 2 ohm.. how do those 2 options relate to an amp?
You can wire a d4 speaker down to two ohms which that amp should have plenty of power for. If you decide to add another speaker you could get another d4 and wire them to 1 ohm and that amp should still push them pretty good at 1 ohm.

It's kind of shitty for him to tell you that your warranty wouldn't be any good though. Just because you have the power available doesn't mean you have to overpower them.

 
Dual 4ohm means you would run an amp at 2ohm parallel or 8ohm series

Dual 2ohm would mean an amp would see 1ohm parallel or 4ohm series

Guess you could run that amp at 4ohm with a D2 and see around 400-500Wrms but then you might as well buy a smaller amp anyways since that amp is supposed to be 1200W

IA2 was saying that if you run a dual 4ohm sub at 8ohms you are not going to get much power at all, but if you run it at 2ohms then the sub is going to see 900W from the amp which would kill your warranty options if you heated the coil or something....

You could always get a D4, wire it at 2ohms and keep the gain down. Then like Bobby said, you could add another sub down the road.

 
Im not sure how that particular amp holds up when it comes to making "rated" power, but if it holds true to those ratings, you will need to order a D4, but the warranty on the sub will still be shot.
News flash!

Due to recent breakthroughs in amplifier technology, you can now adjust said amplifier to put out less than its rated power!

 
so wiring it at 2 ohms in parallel will give me optimal output for that sub?

warranty will be shot i guess but pretty much every1 plays their subs over the rated rms.. should be fine right?

 
so wiring it at 2 ohms in parallel will give me optimal output for that sub?
warranty will be shot i guess but pretty much every1 plays their subs over the rated rms.. should be fine right?
Like someone above me said, I would still get the DVC 4 ohm driver. You'll still have plenty of power at 2 ohms for the LI, and if you decide to get another driver, you can wire the amp to one ohm.

But if you don't plan on upgrading, then buy a DVC 2 ohm driver. People here run 1000+ wRMS to them all the time. IA underrates their power handling specs.

 
Like someone above me said, I would still get the DVC 4 ohm driver. You'll still have plenty of power at 2 ohms for the LI, and if you decide to get another driver, you can wire the amp to one ohm.
But if you don't plan on upgrading, then buy a DVC 2 ohm driver. People here run 1000+ wRMS to them all the time. IA underrates their power handling specs.

ya but im saying if i go with the dual 4 ohm i would wire the amp for 2 ohms and get 900w going to the sub right?

 
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