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Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8647905" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>without actual clamp testing and current measures with a fluke meter we honestly cant really tell but in almost all cases the traditional 1-100 cap doesnt really help much, not unless its these kinds of caps coupled with a high output alternator. About 3000 farads per piece. We do use caps but if the setup's alternator cant keep up in the first place, the cap itself pretty useless. If the alt can keep up than the setup doesnt really need the cap either. The setups involving these ultracaps require extremely fast high powered discharge for a single burp and these caps store a lot of power and dump a lot of power and i mean A LOT of power. You can actually get several thousand farads of a smaller bank for the same price as the 10 farad stinger cap and for sure you will notice a giant difference with those. They are industry regulated too compared to car audio where there's literally zero regulations so the farads you getting are actual TRUE farads. There's a lot better things you can get for your money nowadays bang for buck wise and overall performance to cost wise. Same with welding cable, from a proper source its just as flexible as car audio cable but the quality of copper is much higher and the wire is industry regulated while car audio cable has zero regulations and the welding cable is 1.6 dollars a foot for 1/0 and 2 dollars for 2/0 while car audio cables are 4-8 dollars a foot for inferior 1/0 unregulated wire. Car audio is an unregulated world of manufacturer lies and marketing sadly.</p><p></p><p>ps i'm not using my condescending tone, I'm legit just having a normal conversation here....</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/leR2UaeeM50/maxresdefault.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8647905, member: 650438"] without actual clamp testing and current measures with a fluke meter we honestly cant really tell but in almost all cases the traditional 1-100 cap doesnt really help much, not unless its these kinds of caps coupled with a high output alternator. About 3000 farads per piece. We do use caps but if the setup's alternator cant keep up in the first place, the cap itself pretty useless. If the alt can keep up than the setup doesnt really need the cap either. The setups involving these ultracaps require extremely fast high powered discharge for a single burp and these caps store a lot of power and dump a lot of power and i mean A LOT of power. You can actually get several thousand farads of a smaller bank for the same price as the 10 farad stinger cap and for sure you will notice a giant difference with those. They are industry regulated too compared to car audio where there's literally zero regulations so the farads you getting are actual TRUE farads. There's a lot better things you can get for your money nowadays bang for buck wise and overall performance to cost wise. Same with welding cable, from a proper source its just as flexible as car audio cable but the quality of copper is much higher and the wire is industry regulated while car audio cable has zero regulations and the welding cable is 1.6 dollars a foot for 1/0 and 2 dollars for 2/0 while car audio cables are 4-8 dollars a foot for inferior 1/0 unregulated wire. Car audio is an unregulated world of manufacturer lies and marketing sadly. ps i'm not using my condescending tone, I'm legit just having a normal conversation here.... [IMG]https://i.ytimg.com/vi/leR2UaeeM50/maxresdefault.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???
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