It did. So. I have a "double" low pass on my sub. One at 80Hz at the amp, and a 80Hz at the HU. I believe both would be a 24Db drop? so pretty much an instant cut off? I'm looking that up now. The Pioneer manual doesn't say, didn't look in the alpine.
You can try the mic. They work ok but again it's only going to do so much. -24db slopes are ok and common. You don't want to use both though.
Really? I've been told otherwise, but.... I'm starting to disregard a lot of that advise. So what do you think would be best? Full range from the HU, or from the Amp? I'm thinking LP the Amp because that LP seems like it'd be more true, but I haven't really experimented with that at all. I run my the amp for the components at full range (but I think I'm going to bump up the HP to at least 50Hz) and HP from the HU so I can control it when I have the sub off or low.
Yes. Do not use 2 crossovers to do the same thing. There was a thread about guy not being happy with his sound, was using x-overs on his hifonics amp. We told him to scrap that and cross at the deck and it made a lot of difference. So see which x-overs you like better and use that. There are also different x-over types and will affect the sound - Linkwitz-Riley, Butterworth, etc. Read the article on crossovers, then adjust. I think just setting them correctly at this point will make a big difference for you.
Really? The HU had a better crossover than the amp? Well, right now it is easiest for me to change the x-over from the HU (amps aren't exactly in the best place to change settings on the fly, thought I had it tuned before making the "amp rack"... little did I know).
Deadening first. Actually, not too expensive if you do it yourself and do it right. Btw do you mind adding all your current equipment to your signature? I keep forgetting between all the threads and looking back takes a while.
Depends which amp and depends which deck, that's why I suggested you see which one you like better. To me, x-overs are "set it and forget it" kinda deal, especially since I have to get out my laptop to change anything. So I don't think being able to change them on the fly is really that much of a benefit. The one that sounds best should be the one you use.
Yeah, I can do that.
Yeah. I just often don't play my sub past 10 PM. I have crappy neighbors that call the cops in the middle of the day, let alone night (no tuning at home). I also hate hearing peoples music when I'm trying to sleep, so I don't do that to people. I still like to hear the bass, which is why I like to allow some to come through the doors. I can achieve this by turning the sub way down instead of off, so its no biggy. The sub just travels much further than the doors is all.
Don't go cheap on deadener. The first layer is the only layer that has any effect. And the asphalt based stuff will melt and cover your car in black liquid stuff.
I don't think it was asphalt based, I just posted the article again. It was the compressed foam installation that is used for drop ceiling with the white shell taken off.
That's not deadening. That's for noise. Deadening is vibration control, panel resonance.
I see, so that is the silver tape like stuff right? Which I don't need much of, just enough to cover the big or large surface area spots with flex. Looks like he uses that too to hold everything in place too, how much of this should I plan on getting? Would about 14 SQFT be about the norm, like this one here: Kno Knoise Resonance Control 2 Door Kit 14sq ft - Merchandise
