Buck Box Designs - Refreshed Thread

[Kybasshead75]

Don’t forget loctite PL premium literally will stick anything to anything, just wear gloves.

This is good stuff to know as I have seen the major benefits of lots of sound insulation and panel deadening. Stereos that powerful have a way of destroying things lol. 4btl's maxed out oh man

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

This is good stuff to know as I have seen the major benefits of lots of sound insulation and panel deadening. Stereos that powerful have a way of destroying things lol. 4btl's maxed out oh man

I sealed my sunroof off with loctite pl premium. So, I had .5" MDF glued to the entire front half of my roof in a double layer of 1" all around the sunroof, and the back had about 2.5 layers of deadner on the entire roof. That gained me about 2-3 db alone, adding the wood and sealing off my sunroof, and that was just with 2x 1400w rms 18's on a rated 1200w RMS. My sunroof would open about 1.5-2" on the lows 30's and below. The problem is that my hatch started ripping sheet metal after that, and I was going to have to like ratchet strap my rear doors closed. They were clapping so hard it was pushing right through the weatherstripping gaskets and hitting metal on metal. It was extremely annoying to hear, too. I braced my hatch with round wooden dowels and filled it all with high density foam, and it made it even louder, but made everything break more around the hatch half-glass. Ugh, man, I was literally ripping that Explorer apart.

My point is: whenever you stiffen one part of your vehicle, that pressure is going to try to escape out of another part of the vehicle. You really want to calculate what part of the vehicle you want to flex most that has the least likely chance of breaking.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I design boxes in attempt to make certain pressure zones in the vehicle.

Every single little part of this box, for a good example, is designed to create staged pressure zones from the back of the sub's cone all the way to the front of the vehicle. The subs are spread out in the exact fashion they are because I wanted them to pressurize a certain way both internally and have the air over the top of the subs flow in a certain way, although it was more an internal sub layout decision over anything else, in relationship to how my port was laying out. There's a huge reason why the port stops short of the baffle and the baffle is angled like it is, and why the subs are all the way at the front of the box and not like centered in the middle or something. This isn't just a ported box with an airspace and a tuning that I just threw together. I went through about half a dozen port styles before I settled on this one.

 

[Kybasshead75]

I sealed my sunroof off with loctite pl premium. So, I had .5" MDF glued to the entire front half of my roof in a double layer of 1" all around the sunroof, and the back had about 2.5 layers of deadner on the entire roof. That gained me about 2-3 db alone, adding the wood and sealing off my sunroof, and that was just with 2x 1400w rms 18's on a rated 1200w RMS. My sunroof would open about 1.5-2" on the lows 30's and below. The problem is that my hatch started ripping sheet metal after that, and I was going to have to like ratchet strap my rear doors closed. They were clapping so hard it was pushing right through the weatherstripping gaskets and hitting metal on metal. It was extremely annoying to hear, too. I braced my hatch with round wooden dowels and filled it all with high density foam, and it made it even louder, but made everything break more around the hatch half-glass. Ugh, man, I was literally ripping that Explorer apart.

My point is: whenever you stiffen one part of your vehicle, that pressure is going to try to escape out of another part of the vehicle. You really want to calculate what part of the vehicle you want to flex most that has the least likely chance of breaking.

That is what I was thinking with the sub and Port up design. The enclosure itself is far more rigid than the rear hatch and you want to concentrate that energy upward into the more rigid area yup.
That is so true I remember a guy that was starting to loosen everything with an underpowered kicker L7 15 on not even a legitimate 1K of power. Well and his Blazer was pretty old too but the point is very true.
Hell just go on and finish it off and fire the 415s into a great big reinforced slot and get a band pass effect out of it with no panel flex hehe

 

[Kybasshead75]

I design boxes in attempt to make certain pressure zones in the vehicle.

View attachment 33956

Every single little part of this box, for a good example, is designed to create staged pressure zones from the back of the sub's cone all the way to the front of the vehicle. The subs are spread out in the exact fashion they are because I wanted them to pressurize a certain way both internally and have the air over the top of the subs flow in a certain way, although it was more an internal sub layout decision over anything else, in relationship to how my port was laying out. There's a huge reason why the port stops short of the baffle and the baffle is angled like it is, and why the subs are all the way at the front of the box and not like centered in the middle or something. This isn't just a ported box with an airspace and a tuning that I just threw together. I went through about half a dozen port styles before I settled on this one.

I love it, this is like school only the classes are way way more interesting. That's why I'm more than happy to let you look at all these variables and design me a box. Take my money lol it really is all about the install and mastering those variables.
Impressive as hell, fun hobby. Can't wait to get the SUV she's coming back from overseas next week and is going to be getting her car shopping and then I'll b able to get it woo!

 

[Kybasshead75]

I design boxes in attempt to make certain pressure zones in the vehicle.

View attachment 33956

Every single little part of this box, for a good example, is designed to create staged pressure zones from the back of the sub's cone all the way to the front of the vehicle. The subs are spread out in the exact fashion they are because I wanted them to pressurize a certain way both internally and have the air over the top of the subs flow in a certain way, although it was more an internal sub layout decision over anything else, in relationship to how my port was laying out. There's a huge reason why the port stops short of the baffle and the baffle is angled like it is, and why the subs are all the way at the front of the box and not like centered in the middle or something. This isn't just a ported box with an airspace and a tuning that I just threw together. I went through about half a dozen port styles before I settled on this one.

I still got an old 18-in ascendant audio chaos, in the box sealed up I could switch that over to my Honda and pull the SQL 12s out of it and run four of them in the SUV that would work out about right with a slot port design like that. 4sql 12s on a 5k @2-2.5 cubes each should do pretty good on music. Just a thought

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Anybody wanna buy me one of these?

Z-24 V.5 D1- Sundown Audio 24" 2000 Watt RMS Dual 1-Ohm Zv5 Series Subwoofer

<p></p> <p></p> <p>The Z v.5 is the second step up in our "ultra-high excursion" subwoofer lineup after the X v.2 series and replaces the world-famous Z v.4 series. The 10, 12, 15, and 18" models all feature our custom tooled and patented frames (US Pat

www.woofersetc.com

 

[Kybasshead75]

Anybody wanna buy me one of these?

Z-24 V.5 D1- Sundown Audio 24" 2000 Watt RMS Dual 1-Ohm Zv5 Series Subwoofer

<p></p> <p></p> <p>The Z v.5 is the second step up in our "ultra-high excursion" subwoofer lineup after the X v.2 series and replaces the world-famous Z v.4 series. The 10, 12, 15, and 18" models all feature our custom tooled and patented frames (US Pat

www.woofersetc.com

Damn, that's cra cra!! Hey u never know

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

2 Digital Design Z4 18's ported wall going in the back of a Jeep Wrangler.....

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Peekaboo

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Sundown Zv6 18 ported going in the back of a small wagon.

This box is tuned super low, and the sub is on 3kw+. Almost all of this box is 1" thick sheet wood, except for the corner 45's. Should do some damage.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

I think the box up there needs more screws

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

I think the box up there needs more screws

Lmao, I know right!

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I think the box up there needs more screws

He added the second baffle to the design, which we had talked about. I think it was fairly difficult to add with the way he had to do it, but I lol'd pretty hard at the way you put that, I'm not going to lie.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I'm kind of getting an obsession for the Skar VXF woofers. This is the 12":

This thing just looks like a hammer, haha. I really like these VXF's.