Best subs for metal music

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Nope..

Nor even close..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

You don't know how the warhorse works it's not a great amp for music..

Nor is it thd most powerful..

 

[WheresTheButta 10+ year member]

You don't know how the warhorse works it's not a great amp for music..Nor is it thd most powerful..

why isn't it great for music? I'm far from an expert, but from what I've seen/heard it's exceptionally efficient and makes rated power, plus has some nice features. As far as I can see, it's not the best out there, but it's an outstanding value considering it can be had for so cheap.

 

[WheresTheButta 10+ year member]

Its true that for a true SQ setup, the front stage (midbass, midrange, treble) are the key factors. In an ideal setup, the subbass is only responsible for reinforcing the front stage, where as the most popular belief seems to be to start with the substage, and then model the front stage around this. This is backwards thinking.

this is the truth. listen to it. as for wenn du weinst - yeah, some subs have better transient attack and better dynamics. That's the truth. However, that only becomes an issue once the substage is already properly implemented. Once properly implemented, however, a better woofer will perform better for sure.

 

[FtheNutHuggers]

WinISD couldn't predict group delay to save your life. It can't even model the effect of axis differentials between front and rear waves inside any given trunk, much less the cabin geometry mated to that trunk. It can't calculate at which phase a ports resonant impedance matches the drivers. That free program is free for a reason, cause it can't accurately calculate its way out of the proverbial wet paper bag. Try to get it to render two response traces, anywhere in the vehicle.....comparing two different subwoofer center point locations along the same baffle. It can't even calculate the difference in response when the dimensions of the compression chamber change, even if the chamber volume remains exactly the same. Velocity profiles anywhere.....forget it. Calculate effects of kinematic viscosity within a multiple-bend port.....nope. It can't pull its own sick @$$ off the toilet.

 

[lethaldosage]

I built 2 sound systems for my car.The previous one was 6 years ago when I was uninformed of sound systems.Then I made a research deeply and learned all technical information as much as possible.

In the light of what I learned,

Subwoofer must be chosen according to music genre.I am a brutal death/grind metal listener.

If you are a metal music listener,you must pick subwoofers that quickly react which means higher frequency and lower diameter.As you know sub frequencies are generally between 20Hz-500Hz and their diameter is 38cm which is tantamount to 15".Those dimensions are quite large for this music type.You have to pick max 10" subs which don't play lower bass sounds like 20Hz.They generally

start from 28Hz.These subs can react fast and keep pace with your music.You can feel better when the drummer in the music starts double kick drums.You must use 2 component mids (4 speakers+4 tweeters) and 2x8" subs which have quite low output like 120W rms and between 34Hz – 1.5kHz. The 8" subs are for mounting in the front doors.You will have totally 5 speakers per front door.

My sound system that I currently use

Kenwood 25th anniversary 1500W mono amp

Kenwood 800W 4 channel

1 x Alpine spx-17pro mids 100W RMS 35Hz-60kHz

1 x Alpine spg 13cs mids 65w RMS 65Hz-20kHz

2 x Alpine swe-843e 8" bass 120W RMS 34Hz-1.5kHz (for front doors)

1 x Alpine SWX-1043D 1000W RMS 22-500Hz (at the back)

Pioneer AVH-P6300BT in-dash

 

[SPL Blazer 10+ year member]

Yeah, none of that is a must. I listen to metal and haven't had any complaints listening to music with 10's, 12's or 15's. Haven't tried my dual 18's yet. A good 3 way set of components up front with a good mid-bass will sound awesome. Tuning the box a bit higher for metal works too, tune lower for cRap and such.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I built 2 sound systems for my car.The previous one was 6 years ago when I was uninformed of sound systems.Then I made a research deeply and learned all technical information as much as possible.
In the light of what I learned,

Subwoofer must be chosen according to music genre.I am a brutal death/grind metal listener.

If you are a metal music listener,you must pick subwoofers that quickly react which means higher frequency and lower diameter.As you know sub frequencies are generally between 20Hz-500Hz and their diameter is 38cm which is tantamount to 15".Those dimensions are quite large for this music type.You have to pick max 10" subs which don't play lower bass sounds like 20Hz.They generally

start from 28Hz.These subs can react fast and keep pace with your music.You can feel better when the drummer in the music starts double kick drums.You must use 2 component mids (4 speakers+4 tweeters) and 2x8" subs which have quite low output like 120W rms and between 34Hz – 1.5kHz. The 8" subs are for mounting in the front doors.You will have totally 5 speakers per front door.

My sound system that I currently use

Kenwood 25th anniversary 1500W mono amp

Kenwood 800W 4 channel

1 x Alpine spx-17pro mids 100W RMS 35Hz-60kHz

1 x Alpine spg 13cs mids 65w RMS 65Hz-20kHz

2 x Alpine swe-843e 8" bass 120W RMS 34Hz-1.5kHz (for front doors)

1 x Alpine SWX-1043D 1000W RMS 22-500Hz (at the back)

Pioneer AVH-P6300BT in-dash

15" subs are so "slow" that if you give them a 50hz signal they play 45hz. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

Size of driver has absolutely no bearing on performance below 120hz.

In case anyone missed the first time I posted this link:

Audiopulse » Myths About Subwoofers