best budget battery?

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

i wouldn't run that battery as your primary starting batt.. since its rated at about 300 cranking amps.

so it would be wise to get a die hard gold, and run this bad boy to the back correct?

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

http://www.splcell.com

Call or e-mail him for real pricing.

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

also, i like that stinger because the sit at voltage is 13.8, which is pretty **** good, unless its hype, which will **** //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

15 Volts (Cyclic Use) 13.8 Volts (Standby Use)

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

also, i like that stinger because the sit at voltage is 13.8, which is pretty **** good, unless its hype, which will **** //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
15 Volts (Cyclic Use) 13.8 Volts (Standby Use)

That is a TINY battery, like one you can pick up in one hand... made for small systems...

The smallest I'd get and find useful would be something like an SPV44... if you're stuck on stinger...

nG

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

That is a TINY battery, like one you can pick up in one hand... made for small systems...
The smallest I'd get and find useful would be something like an SPV44... if you're stuck on stinger...

nG

Not really stuck on stinger, more like their price. But i already have a replacement battery i am picking up for cheap. I was thinking of putting this is the back, and connecting it to my replacement battery. Is it pointless or worth it. I already have 1 run of Kicker 0 gauge going to the back, i can just hook that up to the Stinger. And find a solid ground, and connect the amp to the Stinger.

Thats what i was hoping, and if its small and light, thats even better. I hate not knowing this stuff //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Also i have a small system, just a 5 Channel amp

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Like I said... it's tiny...

nG

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

Like I said... it's tiny...
nG

But will it work for what i want to do? Which is get a steady voltage, higher than 12V, its standby is 13.8, and i am doing the big 3 as well. So will it give me more power to do it like this?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

I would keep going on... but man its not worth it. Your clearly in love with your kinetiks...


I do have one question though. Why aren't 2400's popular at all in street classes for db drag?

a few street guys and a few street max guys used and still do use the 3200.

what i have seen listed on what is competitive on a world scale i wouldnt call "budget" at all and from what past results have shown those as you would say "competive" batteries aren't even mentioned in this thread. Street class comp battery is totally different need than a daily battery and those that are really up there in street probably dont use their "burp" batteries in daily systems, because they have a track record of not being reliable or streetable or even worse they become weaker as they get used more.

 

[scottiej 10+ year member]

But will it work for what i want to do? Which is get a steady voltage, higher than 12V, its standby is 13.8, and i am doing the big 3 as well. So will it give me more power to do it like this?

The cyclic and standby numbers you are refering to are in regard to charge voltage. Cyclic charging at 15v, standby or float charge at 13.8v. These batteries will rest at 12.8-13.1v just like any other sealed lead acid battery that is fully charged.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

The cyclic and standby numbers you are refering to are in regard to charge voltage. Cyclic charging at 15v, standby or float charge at 13.8v. These batteries will rest at 12.8-13.1v just like any other sealed lead acid battery that is fully charged.

INdeed.

I'm still enjoying my D31 Yellow Tops, going strong for 3+ years @ 13.1v resting...

If I were to buy new now, I would more than likely go with Powermaster batts...

nG

 

[scottiej 10+ year member]

****ing? At retail pricing stinger actually costs more. If you look at the AH charts the Kinetiks are all on a higher load so if you compared the Kinetik 1800 vs the spv70 (the Kinetik 1800 under a 4.05 amp load and the SPV70 under a 3.5 amp load). If they were at the same normal power load the 1800 would still be turning out the power longer for less money,so it looks to me like unless you are buying a graph and not POWER you are getting a lot more power and for less money with the 1800 by the Stinger test. the 2400 was under almost 2 times the amp load as the spv70 and it still costs less...Hmmmm. I wonder why they chose not to publish the 2000 discharge test???? Funny the SPV35 is not available for viewing.when looking at the graph look at everything

I have used an sp1000 (not an spv) under the hood and lasted a grand total of 14-17 months ("deal" price locally was higher than i can buy a kinetik 1400 for locally) . The majority of that time the Sidekick it was in didnt even have an audio system. The Kinetik i have under the hood now is in a crappier vehicle on an equally powered system for almost 3 years (system is older than the battery) and i use it key off for charging other batteries on weekend afternoons 6-9 hours at a time + listen to music when I am not wrenching.

So you're saying an Amp Hour rating over a 20hr period is more usefull than quick discharge ratings over 5 seconds? I find it hard to beleive that a battery that can provide 5 amps for 20 hours is better for my system than a battery that can provide 1700A for 5 seconds. As I've mentioned 1000 times before there is a perfect balance between good reserve capacity and great discharge capacity... this is the battery you want for your system, and there is only one place I know of to get it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

http://www.xspowerbatteries.com //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[scottiej 10+ year member]

INdeed.
I'm still enjoying my D31 Yellow Tops, going strong for 3+ years @ 13.1v resting...

If I were to buy new now, I would more than likely go with Powermaster batts...

nG

Thanks! Another great choice //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

So you're saying an Amp Hour rating over a 20hr period is more usefull than quick discharge ratings over 5 seconds? I find it hard to beleive that a battery that can provide 5 amps for 20 hours is better for my system than a battery that can provide 1700A for 5 seconds. As I've mentioned 1000 times before there is a perfect balance between good reserve capacity and great discharge capacity... this is the battery you want for your system, and there is only one place I know of to get it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
http://www.xspowerbatteries.com //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Where did i say you wanted to use 5 amps for 20 hours? I was basically explaining the graphs. I merely stated that 2000 amps is not realistic for consumers and they need real current draws such as 100 or 200 amps over and over again repeatedly. No battery can take the super high burst currents repeatedly and should NEVER be hooked up that way anyway. As long as a battery can provide propper current for the real world bursts at a few hundred amps max real world. They also need to be good at storage and durability after it is determeined that the battery/batteries can cover the max current that an amp needs. Anything at the super high currents are just not realistic real world needs.

 

[scottiej 10+ year member]

Where did i say you wanted to use 5 amps for 20 hours? I was basically explaining the graphs. I merely stated that 2000 amps is not realistic for consumers and they need real current draws such as 100 or 200 amps over and over again repeatedly. No battery can take the super high burst currents repeatedly and should NEVER be hooked up that way anyway. As long as a battery can provide propper current for the real world bursts at a few hundred amps max real world. They also need to be good at storage and durability after it is determeined that the battery/batteries can cover the max current that an amp needs. Anything at the super high currents are just not realistic real world needs.

I dont think you understand Amp Hour Capacity. A 100Ah battery does not mean that it can provide 100A for 1 hour, it means that it can provide 5 amps for 20hours. Ah ratings are given in C/10 or C/20 rates (10 or 20 hour discharges) In your post you are claiming how the Stinger was given a lesser load than the Kinetik... that is because it has a lower Amp Hour Capacity.

For Example

Stinger 3.5A load for 20hours = 3.5 x 20 = 70Ah

Kinetik 4.05A load for 20hours = 4.05 x 20 = 81Ah

The charts are showing how the batteries do not meet specs... so I'm not quite sure what you are trying to point out?

Just becase a battery has a higher Ah rating means nothing to me in car audio, unless you plan to draw low amounts of current (20A or less) over a very long period of time. People use Ah as a reference to judge the capacity of one battery vs another... has nothing to do with high current (100A+) dishcharges unless an internal resistance is given with it.

While I'll agree that 2000A is unrealistic for the average consumer, I still fail to see how you can get anything from this independant testing other than the Stinger is the better choice given the two options? Looking for an educated explanation //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Why because it MAY burp a couple tenths of a db louder? Does a consumer with a daily driver care about that or that it will be working properly 6 months down the road? The battery that is still working the same is better than any trashed battery that "used to be a couple tenths of a db louder" 6-12 months ago, but now broken. To me the answer is obvious I would rather have something that works very well and performs the same longer.