back and forth on batteries

tdblanchard13
10+ year member

Member
ok guys ive done quite a bit on searching on batteries and what makes one better than another. im looking to spend around 120 or less on the battery locally. optimas are pretty pricy so i was looking at other options. in the process i found that CCA isnt exactly what makes a battery good for car audio. im running a sundown sae-1200d off my stock battery right now. im not having much dimming issues until i pump the volume up. my voltage is still low though (battery is 5 years old anyways). long story short im looking at duralast golds and am wondering if this will be fine. it has a high CCA but idk what exactly determines what spec of a battery determines if it can stay at a higher voltage. also people keep saying you can get better for 20 or so more dollars. can someone point me to one of these that can be bought at any local car shop? any help would be great.

 
i have a 2 month old optima d31t (huge)

Specifications:

• BCI Group Size: 31 (3/8" Stud)

• Voltage: 12

• Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 F: 900

• Cranking Amps @ 32 F: 1125

• Reserve Capacity Minutes: 155

• Amp Hour (20 Hour Rate): 75

• Weight: 63 Lbs

Dimensions (Maximum Overall):

• Length: 12 13/16"

• Width: 6 1/2"

• Height: 9 3/8"

 
i need a 78 group size. that doesnt exactly answer my questions on what makes a battery ideal for car audio. if the duralast will improve my voltage readings then thats all i need. like i said, unless im really pushing the amp, i see no dimming. i just want my amp to have more voltage to play with so it can stay cooler with no clipping.

 
lol ok guys. again this isnt a wtb thread, im asking about what specs makes batteries ideal for car audio. originally i thought it was CCA and the reserve, but when i was searching on here it sounding like there are other variables. i was just looking to know what they are and if the duralast gold could work for my setup. i guess i should mention i want to run one group 78 battery up front and thats it. thanks for the offers though.

 
they are trying to tell you that for the money you spend locally you can do better online and shipped. for 140$ i got a D5100 from Mechman and I couldn't be happier. My voltage drops and dimming have basically disappeared. granted i also have a stinger spv44

 
i understand that, but none of those batteries on mechman.com show that they are a group 78. i dont have much space at all where my battery is (there is a big rod and everything directly above it). and most of those batteries are a little out of my price range. show me one that will fit in an 2005 impala and costs less than 150 and then i would consider it. is maximum amps what i need to look at, or CCA? no one is really looking at the question. what is ah? thanks for the help.

 
You guys aren't answering his question at all lol

OP: look for a higher AH rating. With 1200 watts, you should be fine with an optima.

Good AH ratings are around 135+

CCA doesn't matter - since that's just the cold cranking amps - if its a supplemental battery it wont be used anyway.

 
You guys aren't answering his question at all lol
OP: look for a higher AH rating. With 1200 watts, you should be fine with an optima.

Good AH ratings are around 135+

CCA doesn't matter - since that's just the cold cranking amps - if its a supplemental battery it wont be used anyway.
thanks man. the website for duralast doesnt post the AH ratings for whatever reason. anyone have any idea what i would be working with? like i said even with a 5 year old stock battery im not experiencing much if any dimming. i would just like to get a stronger battery while im replacing mine anyways. thanks.

 
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