Alex's Silverado

That is just scary ! A whole lot of potential for very bad things to happen ! But on the flip side you really made me rethink my battery situation and I am starting on a new angle iron rack probably mounted to the frame through the tool box and bed.

 
Got some patio chairs for the gf's dad.

Can still haul stuff (kind of) lol

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Well, I finally did it.

Hooked up all 4 7k's and went for a drive earlier today. After about 10-15 minutes, something started rattling and my subs weren't as loud. Thought for sure I slinkied a coil. There wasn't any smell though....

Went home and pushed on each cone one at a time. Yep, one of them scraped. Pulled the sub out, but the coil looked fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

IMG_20160508_175122_328_zps2e4f1wej.jpg


Then I noticed the spider landing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

IMG_20160508_175134_665_zpsqrui5chp.jpg


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Came un-glued all the way around. The song I was listening to was "Glad You Came" slowed by "DJ Slowfets". Some of you have probably heard it because he put the zip links on this forum. I'm confused as to why that song caused it to separate. It's not even that low, which would make me think it was damaged mechanically from playing below tuning.

Idk, probably just too much power. They were wangin' while they lasted though. I can probably re-glue it down. I'm just worried about alignment.

I've got $1,600 saved up and it will be $2k this Friday. I'll also be working hella hours once Summer starts. I was planning to move out next Monday though. Rent would be $250 a month for me.

Now I'm considering staying longer so I can have more money for the replacement subs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

I'll probably do 4 18's in a 4th next unless I can think of something better to do.

For now, I've got a huge paperweight //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

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Yep, I just don't know the best way to keep it aligned when re-gluing it. Plus, won't it just happen again with this power?

That's why I'm thinking about finally switching subs.

Might buy a bunch of X-12's from the next Sundown yardsale. Still spitballing

 
Bumping two subs for now. Sealed off the third hole. Wired each sub to a pair of amps strapped. Wayyyyy more power than they'd like, so I'm taking it easier on them.

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Well, I finally killed my window and door lock switches in my door panel today //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

The assemblies broke off both doors a long time ago and are now held on with duct tape, but today my lock/unlock switch stopped working and my windows wouldn't roll up/down. After hitting the door panel a few times, it worked for a little bit, then quit working again.

Also been driving without gauges for a couple weeks now. Ran out of gas once. Now, I just fill up every few days to be safe. Only gauge I really miss is the fuel gauge

 
Well, I finally killed my window and door lock switches in my door panel today //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
The assemblies broke off both doors a long time ago and are now held on with duct tape, but today my lock/unlock switch stopped working and my windows wouldn't roll up/down. After hitting the door panel a few times, it worked for a little bit, then quit working again.

Also been driving without gauges for a couple weeks now. Ran out of gas once. Now, I just fill up every few days to be safe. Only gauge I really miss is the fuel gauge
Why not fix it while you wait on sub decision ?

 
Well, I finally killed my window and door lock switches in my door panel today //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
The assemblies broke off both doors a long time ago and are now held on with duct tape, but today my lock/unlock switch stopped working and my windows wouldn't roll up/down. After hitting the door panel a few times, it worked for a little bit, then quit working again.

Also been driving without gauges for a couple weeks now. Ran out of gas once. Now, I just fill up every few days to be safe. Only gauge I really miss is the fuel gauge
If this is true then you are running to low on voltage.

Bass will not destroy the connecton between two connectors.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 
If this is true then you are running to low on voltage.
Bass will not destroy the connecton between two connectors.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
I've killed my gauges a couple times. They came back on though and I never did figure out what the issue was.

 
I've killed my gauges a couple times. They came back on though and I never did figure out what the issue was.
Voltage spike + stock wireing.

Most of the stocks components like the tach and door locks have small 10 gauge power wire from the fuse. Even tho your amp sees the quick drop these other components cant handle the sudden drops.

Just like when the bass hits your gauge needles go crazy and 100% of the time if your running real power your dash will light up as if your battery died.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 
Why not fix it while you wait on sub decision ?
Yeah, going to take a look at it

If this is true then you are running to low on voltage.
Bass will not destroy the connecton between two connectors.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
How many times do I have to say it?

I am running ISOLATED ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS.

My sub amp voltage has nothing to do with my stock electrical seeing low voltage. My secondary electrical doesn't even drop below 14v with four 7k's anyways //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Vibration does rattle connections loose. See it all the time with vehicles that come in the shop. Their battery cable isn't tight and the vibrations from driving shake it, causing weird issues

I've killed my gauges a couple times. They came back on though and I never did figure out what the issue was.
Connections or solder joints are loose.

Voltage spike + stock wireing.
Most of the stocks components like the tach and door locks have small 10 gauge power wire from the fuse. Even tho your amp sees the quick drop these other components cant handle the sudden drops.

Just like when the bass hits your gauge needles go crazy and 100% of the time if your running real power your dash will light up as if your battery died.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
No, you're an idiot.

I don't even have gauges anymore //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
Yeah, going to take a look at it


How many times do I have to say it?

I am running ISOLATED ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS.

My sub amp voltage has nothing to do with my stock electrical seeing low voltage. My secondary electrical doesn't even drop below 14v with four 7k's anyways //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Vibration does rattle connections loose. See it all the time with vehicles that come in the shop. Their battery cable isn't tight and the vibrations from driving shake it, causing weird issues

Connections or solder joints are loose.

No, you're an idiot.

I don't even have gauges anymore //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
I find it funny how you take the time to always try to be the "smarter" one. Does your mom act that way that its become the norm for you?

As far as solder joints breaking from bass especially a GM design is far from the truth.

Look into a bluetooth obd + ipad or android with torque pro

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 
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