Alarm sensing a door open.

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

So my alarm has been working flawlessly for quite a while, and then all of a sudden about a week ago it went off indicating an open door, and since then I haven't been able to arm it without out it chirping.

I checked the hood pins for continuity to ground, and they check out, so they aren't shorted out.

My interior lights work flawlessly, so it's not a problem with the stock wiring.

I just checked the relays, and they all appear to be fine.

The one fuse I could find (I know there are more, but I got tired of sitting on my neck.) was ok.

Should I just keep looking for the other fuses? It would seem to me that a blown inline fuse from the alarm wouldn't cause the issue since the switches are normally open.

Is my thinking ****ed up here?

Any thoughts would be appreciated as I want to get this fixed, but I'm still in the very early stages of finding and fixing the problem.

Pardon the ignorance alarms are not my forte.

Also, everything else seems to work fine, RS, keyless entry wise.

Click to read more...

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

On your caprice? What year is it?

Have you tried opening each door by itself to see if the dome light still comes on? Is there a pin on the rear hatch?

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Checked each door the day it happened. I checked all of the added pin switches as well.

It's a 95

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

What kind of alarm?

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Galaxy 5000RS

I was just reading the manual and my HP and door input are on separate circuits (which makes sense, but I forgot that.)

So really, a lot of my logic just got thrown out the window.

Seems I just need to find where my doors hook in and trace it back as best as I can.

God I wish we hadn't hidden everything so **** well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Them's the pipes I guess.

The manual if you're interested.

http://www.scytek.net/pdf/product_galaxy_combo_5000RS-2W_manual.pdf

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

Galaxy 5000RS
I was just reading the manual and my HP and door input are on separate circuits (which makes sense, but I forgot that.)

So really, a lot of my logic just got thrown out the window.

Seems I just need to find where my doors hook in and trace it back as best as I can.

God I wish we hadn't hidden everything so **** well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Them's the pipes I guess.

The manual if you're interested.

http://www.scytek.net/pdf/product_galaxy_combo_5000RS-2W_manual.pdf

That is where I would start. The door trigger wire could be grounding out causing the alarm to false. You could have also hooked up another trigger to the door trigger and didnt diode isolate or a connection could have broke somewhere.

Did you check the under dash light to see if it still works? Probably doesnt matter but a thought since directechs says to get the trigger there.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

All of the lights do work.

Looks like it's time to pull it in the garage and start pulling the interior. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Thanks for the time MD

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

I got the door trigger in the driver's kick jason, high up in it and near the grommet into the door IIRC.

That is most likely what it is if it isn't a problem with the bulbs/interior lighting. It's a tight space up there...

nG

 

[THUNDERBIRD 10+ year member]

I got the door trigger in the driver's kick jason, high up in it and near the grommet into the door IIRC.
That is most likely what it is if it isn't a problem with the bulbs/interior lighting. It's a tight space up there...

nG

so you installed it for him? there is your problem. just playing, at least he knew where he got it at.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Hey, I soldered some shit. At least we put fuses... ****ing.... EVERYWHERE. So the brain should be fine.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Brain is fine...

I'm betting it's the connection for the door trigger...

nG

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Update. No continuity in the door hook up unless the door is actually open.

I get 0V when the door is open, and 8.5V when it's closed. Seems like an odd number.

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

I know of quite a few cars that wont read 12v on a door trigger so that isnt too out of the ordinary.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

So if it gets voltage when the door is closed, and the brain thinks it's always open a blown fuse in line would make sense correct? or possibly a cut wire, something of that sort.

And if I eliminate those then what? Bad brain?

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

Chances are there isnt a fuse inline. Where are you testing for voltage? Are you doing it where the connection is? Can you get to the brain and test the door trigger there for voltage?