a few questions

[dj2606 10+ year member]

So my amp keeps going into protection mode.

Amp

Kicker mono 500.1

Sub

Kicker - Solo-Baric L3 10" Single Ported

I have a dmm and have checked all wiring and fuses are good. I have disconnected rca's and and sub speaker, the amp stays out of protection this way. It only goes into protection when I hook up the sub. I have measure ohms with dmm at terminal and the speaker has continuity.

Does this not matter? Is my sub done? or the amp?

Also when everything is running the way it should I'm trying to adjust my HU for a better front stage. I'm running a Pioneer 80prs in 3 way network, in this mode there is no fader so how do I adjust for more front speaker?

Thank you in advance for help, let me know if I have left any info out needed for helping me diagnose

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[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

is the sub dual 4 or dual 2 sounds like the impedance is too low

 

[dj2606 10+ year member]

it's 2ohm

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Are you running the voice coils in parallel

or series

 

[dj2606 10+ year member]

info from sonic electronic

10" Solo-Baric L3 Series Subwoofer

RMS: 400 watts

Enclosure impedance: 4 ohms (Wired internally in series to final 4 ohm impedance)

High-temp dual 2 ohms voice coil

Sensitivity: 85.3 dB

 

[dj2606 10+ year member]

**** guys, my bad I pulled info from wrong sub

it's this one for sure. **** i feel retarted

10" Solo-Baric L3 Series Subwoofer

RMS: 400 watts

Enclosure impedance: 2 ohms (Wired internally in parallel to final 2 ohm impedance)

High-temp dual 4 ohms voice coil

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

check your ground maybe loose

 

[dj2606 10+ year member]

yep loose ground. The shop that installed it rigged the ground down with three screws because the ring terminal was 5/16 diameter. Do you think the sub could have blown because of this? When I got it to come back on it rattles, and doesn't really hit.

Right now I have the rca unhooked to not cause further damage to the amp. This is the third mistake I have found after they installed the subwoofer and amplifier. First was negative battery cable wasn't tightened properly (kinda nerve racking driving down the interstate and the car cuts out). second was the pipe connecting the air filter to throttle body wasn't even put back on just left hanging in the engine compartment. They better replace the subwoofer free of charge, if it is indeed blown!!!!!!

Either way thank you guys helping me find the issue.

Anyone familiar with the pioneer 80prs?

 

[dj2606 10+ year member]

I will post a picture of the ground terminal of the amp tomorrow when there is some daylight.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

yep loose ground. The shop that installed it rigged the ground down with three screws because the ring terminal was 5/16 diameter. Do you think the sub could have blown because of this? When I got it to come back on it rattles, and doesn't really hit.
Right now I have the rca unhooked to not cause further damage to the amp. This is the third mistake I have found after they installed the subwoofer and amplifier. First was negative battery cable wasn't tightened properly (kinda nerve racking driving down the interstate and the car cuts out). second was the pipe connecting the air filter to throttle body wasn't even put back on just left hanging in the engine compartment. They better replace the subwoofer free of charge, if it is indeed blown!!!!!!

Either way thank you guys helping me find the issue.

Anyone familiar with the pioneer 80prs?

First, don't go back to that shop for anything except to get the replacement equipment. Don't let them install it though. They are obviously a bunch of morons.

What do you mean it rattles? At low and high volume? Is your gain properly set?

What do you want to know about the HU?

 

[dj2606 10+ year member]

After they installed it and said that the gain had to be set low because the amp was way to much for the sub I popped in a 50hz tone cd and looped it, dialed the gain with my dmm to just under 28.28 volts and 3/4 HU volume.

Not really sure how to describe the sound other than it's kinda farting when it hits. I still haven't replaced the screws with a proper bolt on the amp ground because it's 12am where I'm at nothing is open and I also want the shop to see this in case the sub is in fact blown and will need to be replaced because of some lazy morons inability to do their job they are paid to do.

On the 80prs, if you're in 3 way network mode there is no fader adjustment. So I was wondering how to adjust it for more front speaker than rear.

 

[dj2606 10+ year member]

so just called them and spoke with the manager, he said the ground being loose wouldn't cause an amp to go into protection mode. Which I know is bs, because anything with a shorted ground or no ground connect will stop working. He also said that they normally wedge rivets on the ground because with that much vibration one screw tends to back out. I said so normally you use a 5/16 ring terminal and screws that are much smaller than it wedged to hold a ground into place instead of one proper sized screw and a lock washer? That makes no sense to me, if they have had issues of with screws backing out finding a ground elsewhere besides the trunk seems like a logical procedure. Hmmmm, like maybe the seat bucket just before a trunk in a 2 door coupe, and what else would help is using the proper fu**ing screw you moron. I hate when someone messes up and instead of admitting their mistake has caused damage they deny " Well that doesn't make sense it would do that, I sorry sir but I have been working car audio for several years and what you are describing isn't true." What happened to customer service?

sorry for the venting, but seriously this is ridiculous. Looks like I may be buying a new subwoofer