$5000 QS System for 2007 Tahoe

[bikinpunk 10+ year member]

I dont want the mids and highs to get drowned out by too much bass.

If you get enough power, good speakers, and good install you won't have to worry about it.

I can run my w7 full tilt and my front stage keeps up just fine.

 

[atsaubrey 10+ year member]

I FIRMLY!!!!! believe in what I run, just look at my sig line. PM me for any advice I might offer, I will leave it at that. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[btdickey99 5,000+ posts]

I also agree with the rest as far as going with the w6s. They have such a smooth sound to them with nothing added. Also I think the 1000/1 is one of my favorite amps that I have ever owned, and provides lots of versatility. Now as far as the mids go I would definately look into some other products. I am a huge JL fan but to me their comp dont sound as great as I would expect. Maybe its just my taste but I do believe there are diff/better options out there.

As stated before I do believe that lots a dampening would be very smart esp with you wanting this high quality of a SQ setup.

Great choice on the cleansweep... I havent have a chance to listen to one but have read many reviews, and understanding what it does it should work perfect for you.

Please keep us posted on what exactly your getting/planning

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

id look into Fi's SSD 12's.. flatter response, less distortion, smaller box and less $ than the 12w6v2

http://www.ficaraudio.com

a SAZ-3000D

http://www.sundownaudio.com/

Hertz Mille MLK165

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/default_en.htm

and http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5455

a review on the Milles, not that a mag review means a whole lot these days but since i got a chance to listen to them, and i liked them... http://www.caraudiomag.com/features/cae_0709_hertz_mille_mlk_165/index.html

 

[dcole18 5,000+ posts]

as far as the processor have you looked into the jbl unit... i thought it was supposed to be pretty much the best integration processor availible //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[btdickey99 5,000+ posts]

id look into Fi's SSD 12's.. flatter response, less distortion, smaller box and less $ than the 12w6v2
http://www.ficaraudio.com

a SAZ-3000D

http://www.sundownaudio.com/

Hertz Mille MLK165

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/default_en.htm

and http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5455

Did you not read that he is pretty dead set on the W6s?

Quit trying to upgrade to what the boner is on the forum

SSDs are awesome subs but if he has already found that he really likes the sound of the w6s then let him go that way

 

[Pl8er 5,000+ posts]

Am I the only one that notices the newbies always come on saying how they have TONS of cash to build a system and what to get?

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

Did you not read that he is pretty dead set on the W6s?
Quit trying to upgrade to what the boner is on the forum

SSDs are awesome subs but if he has already found that he really likes the sound of the w6s then let him go that way

you said it yourself.... "upgrade"

he should be asking himself... "why not?"

 

[bikinpunk 10+ year member]

you said it yourself.... "upgrade"
he should be asking himself... "why not?"

w6's are widely regarded as one of the best subs out.

The ones you mentioned aren't bad, but I don't know if any are significantly better (if at all) than the w6. The benefit of not going JL is saving $. To some it's not worth the $$$, to some it is. Think we can all agree on that.

 

[DukesDF 10+ year member]

By the way, I am not NEW to car audio at all. I have been installing my own stereos since I was 16 years old. I have used products from Kicker, Soundstream, Orion, Image Dynamics, Alpine, and stinger in the past, but do not have experience with the newer stuff out today. I havent been able to purchase new gear during the last few years due to finishing graduate school. And spending 5 grand on this setup is not really a big deal to me. I spent more than that on prior systems and components.

I have never heard of the SSD Subs. How do they compare to the JL's?

The more I read about the JL Slash 1000v2 the more im starting not to like it. I talked to the guys at JL and they said this thing pulls 100amps almost continuously. That seems like crazy power draw. Are there any other 1000 watt amps out there that are more efficient?

 

[bikinpunk 10+ year member]

By the way, I am not NEW to car audio at all. I have been installing my own stereos since I was 16 years old. I have used products from Kicker, Soundstream, Orion, Image Dynamics, Alpine, and stinger in the past, but do not have experience with the newer stuff out today. I havent been able to purchase new gear during the last few years due to finishing graduate school. And spending 5 grand on this setup is not really a big deal to me. I spent more than that on prior systems and components.
I have never heard of the SSD Subs. How do they compare to the JL's?

The more I read about the JL Slash 1000v2 the more im starting not to like it. I talked to the guys at JL and they said this thing pulls 100amps almost continuously. That seems like crazy power draw. Are there any other 1000 watt amps out there that are more efficient?

You could look into the PDX 1.1000. The PDX's (as I said earlier) are 90%+ efficient. Check the fuse rating on the amp and you should get a ballpark idea of current draw. Though I would imagine 100amps for 1000w rms is pretty good. I don't have any problem with my 1000/1 and I drive a Civic.

 

[btdickey99 5,000+ posts]

Yea I do agree that one of the downfalls of the jL 1000/1 is the amount of current it does draw

To me its worth it, and to some it isn't

There are many other amps out there that are just as good and as bikinpunk had said, may save you some money

 

[DukesDF 10+ year member]

Do most people using 1000 watt sub amps upgrade their alternators? Even when I was using my 600 watt soundstream amp i was chewing up stock alternators. I know it wasnt a wiring problem either. I dont want to get into problems with my new truck (ie lights dimming at red lights etc). Like i said, i have my old stinger 200 amp alternator but I dont want to use it unless I absolutely have to.

Does anybody have a problem using a ported subwoofer box when trying to achieve good sound quality? I was under the im pression that sealed boxes are crisper and tighter, while ported boxes are boomier and "lower". Is this correct?

Where can I buy zapco amps?

Is anybody still using Image Dynamic Compression drivers or component kits with success?

Thanks again.

 

[DukesDF 10+ year member]

Would the Zapco DC1100.1 work nicely with 2 JL w6v2 12's or 13's? Would this provide enough power to make the subs bump nicely?

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Does anybody have a problem using a ported subwoofer box when trying to achieve good sound quality? I was under the im pression that sealed boxes are crisper and tighter, while ported boxes are boomier and "lower". Is this correct?

I'm a sealed fan, personally...and sealed boxes will always have lower extension than ported...