2011 Chevrolet regulated voltage controller


Dafaseles

CarAudio.com Recruit
Nov 12, 2020
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To begin, sorry for the essay, but I don't know how else to ask this question...
I have a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado that I'm putting a system into along with a lithium battery in the bed, and a battery delete under the hood. My truck has a regulated voltage controller. It's basically a donut/ clamp... whatever you want to call it, on a ground wire.
Everything I've seen and read says it goes between the alternator ground and the battery ground no more than 12 inches away from the battery. Looking at my truck, my RVC clamp is between the battery ground and the engine block. Looking at my cousins 2013 (same generation, just different year) which has had no work done to it, it's the same configuration. RVC clamp between the battery ground and the engine block.
So here's my question...
I was wondering if anyone had any experience in dealing with this RVC? I read that the RVC doesn't like it when you ground things to the frame. Well, I'm planning on grounding my lithium to the frame. Also, they say the RVC shouldn't be more than 12 inches from the battery. Well, mine will be maybe 15 feet away, if what I'm thinking will work in the first place.
I included a very crude drawing of what I was thinking of doing to install my lithium in the bed, have the battery delete under the hood, and keeping the RVC clamp in its original spot. I don't really want to look at a battery light on my dash board, and I don't want weird electrical issues after I install everything. I've spent quite a bit of money and I don't want to damage anything.
Thanks in advance and any info/ opinions will be greatly appreciated.
 

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1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
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Pharr, Texas
I don't really want to look at a battery light on my dash board, and I don't want weird electrical issues after I install everything
By grounding the battery to the frame you will be bypassing the RVC. IMO, this will tell the alternator's voltage regulator that not much energy us being used, so it will lower the charging voltage/time. I would use a heavier gauge from engine block to chassis, then from chassis to battery. After the chassis is where the VCR will go. Not sure how big of a gauge will fit in it, but the bigger the better. I hope by using a bigger gauge you will overcome the 12" from the battery rule. If not, then next step would be to be to use that clamp next to the battery with an extension.
 
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Dafaseles

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By grounding the battery to the frame you will be bypassing the RVC. IMO, this will tell the alternator's voltage regulator that not much energy us being used, so it will lower the charging voltage/time. I would use a heavier gauge from engine block to chassis, then from chassis to battery. After the chassis is where the VCR will go. Not sure how big of a gauge will fit in it, but the bigger the better. I hope by using a bigger gauge you will overcome the 12" from the battery rule. If not, then next step would be to be to use that clamp next to the battery with an extension.
That actually makes sense. I had a local stereo shop install the system that I'm currently ripping out. It was 2 AGM's under the hood. They kept the stock wire that went through the RVC, but they also grounded the battery to the frame and the chassis. If my truck sat for 2 days, it was dead. The battery light never came on, but it ruined the batteries in no time. Maybe because there battery was also grounded elsewhere, it wasn't charging the batteries correctly?
I can fit 1/0 through the clamp and was planning on upping it. I also read you can run next to the clamp and it work. I don't know if that's true though.
So, if I only do 1 run from the lithium, through the RVC clamp, to the block, I have to figure out a different way to ground the amps I think. I was just going to ground the amps to the battery, then do from the battery that picture. Should I still ground the alternator to the frame? My amps will also be in the bed, how would someone ground those?
 

1aespinoza

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May 22, 2013
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My amps will also be in the bed, how would someone ground those
The RVC is strictly for battery health. So only the ground cable should go to the battery. Ground the amps to the chassis. They will get ground through the cable coming from the batery through the RVC, and also from the engine to chassis ground cable.
 
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Dafaseles

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The RVC is strictly for battery health. So only the ground cable should go to the battery. Ground the amps to the chassis. They will get ground through the cable coming from the batery through the RVC, and also from the engine to chassis ground cable.
I didn't see a cable going from the engine to the chassis. I can add one though. The stereo shop had a ground coming from the battery to the chassis. It's no longer there.
Sorry to ask even more questions, but I've never grounded anything in the bed of a truck before. Is that chassis grounded? Should I run another 1/0 from the engine to the bed chassis? Also, there's 6 amps totaling over 10,000 watts (2 mono block amps and 3 4 channels) Also, should I run the alternator ground to the frame or elsewhere?
This build was supposed to be pretty straight forward. With the finding out about this RVC, it's become a crap ton more difficult lol.
 

1aespinoza

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May 22, 2013
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Also, there's 6 amps totaling over 10,000 watts (2 mono block amps and 3 4 channels)
Holy rattling panels Batman! This thread has just gone way above my pay grade! You are talking of about at least 800 amperes of power. So I think 1 alternator, 1 battery, 1 run of 1/0 awg will not suffice. I am a low power user, so I am out of my element here.
Also, should I run the alternator ground to the frame or elsewhere?
By chassis I mean frame. So holes in the bed to run down to the frame.
I didn't see a cable going from the engine to the chassis
This is usually from the starter to the frame from the factory.
 

Dafaseles

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From the engine block to the frame. The frame will be the ground for the amplifiers. But again, I have no idea how many 1/0awg cables will be needed for your power level.
I really appreciate the insight. I can figure out the runs easy, I just needed to figure out where to go with them so everything worked properly, which you have helped me with a ton!
I think what I'm going to do is go nuts with the grounding of everything else and over compensate.
I think the best thing to do is extend the wire for the clamp to the rear of the truck and keep it close to the battery. (I really hope it plays nice with the lithium). Then send a run from the battery to the engine. Maybe I'll try to fit a run of 4/0 through there. If not, just 1/0. I'll ground all the amps through the bed into the frame. Probably use a grounding block for the 7 amplifier grounds, then run 4 runs of 4/0 to the frame to ground all the amps. Then get one of those triple alternator blocks and send 1 to the engine block, 2 to the frame. Then from the engine (starter) to the frame, up that to 4/0. Does that plan sound like it'll work with an audio setup and that RVC (not so much if it's sufficient, but if it'll ground the truck well and play nice with the RVC)?
I really just wanted others opinions on where and how to ground everything. Because of the RVC, the "big 3" upgrade got kind of confusing. You've helped a ton!
 
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1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
972
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Pharr, Texas
I really just wanted others opinions on where and how to ground everything. Because of the RVC, the "big 3" upgrade got kind of confusing. You've helped a ton!
Glad to help. As long as the battery negatives run through the RVC first, after that you can run them straight to the frame if you want.
 
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