2000 Camry Build

I

Ive done some vehicles in a non-insulated shop being in the 30s and 20s outside and maybe mid 30s in some areas inside. A nice old 60-75 watt shop bulb/light inside the vehicle and windows cracked about 1/2" and cutting sheets inside the vehicle, laying, rolling, and using the Heat gun on High/100watts or if you have a 1500 watt?, hit over the laid section for about 30 seconds and rolling? She Sticks!!
Oh yeah, i gots me a 1 jigawatt unit, never an issue!
 
It's pretty damn cold here, 32 today and that is warm for Boise this time of the year. Unless you have a heated shop where your vehicle can stay heated overnight, kind of limited. When it's this cold, the metal car aks like a large cooling fin, and even trying to heat inside with a heat gun can be a challenge for sure, but absolutely critical as for without, no chance in hell it's going to stick.
There are a lot of people in the lower portion of the States that still do not have a garage,shop or even a carport for theyre vehicles. One my trucks deff doesnt fit in the standard sized garage. I crank it daily in winter and cover what I can, when I can and point the motor/hood South. Be surprised what you can accomplish with Cardboard or cut up trash bags. LOL. I can care less what neighbors think. Im able open my doors and drive off while they are working on getting in theyre doors alone 🤪 🤪
 
There are a lot of people in the lower portion of the States that still do not have a garage,shop or even a carport for theyre vehicles. One my trucks deff doesnt fit in the standard sized garage. I crank it daily in winter and cover what I can, when I can and point the motor/hood South. Be surprised what you can accomplish with Cardboard or cut up trash bags. LOL. I can care less what neighbors think. Im able open my doors and drive off while they are working on getting in theyre doors alone 🤪 🤪
That's one of the reasons, I don't drive a crew cab. Being able to pull my reg cab in the garage and have room to stand in front of it is a huge plus. I even turned a few houses down when shopping, just for that reason.
 
That's one of the reasons, I don't drive a crew cab. Being able to pull my reg cab in the garage and have room to stand in front of it is a huge plus. I even turned a few houses down when shopping, just for that reason.
Got to have it for my working needs. I have to haul long and heavy materials and use the tommy to lift and lower heavy equipment/materials usually. Didnt need it until I went freelance
 
That's one of the reasons, I don't drive a crew cab. Being able to pull my reg cab in the garage and have room to stand in front of it is a huge plus. I even turned a few houses down when shopping, just for that reason.
Even one myXcab 98 Chevy 3 drs barely fits in this garage on one side. Perfect at the shop out at the land for all them inside. More convenient here to hit the highways and run
 
My bro in Havasu City has 2 joined GD huge fully insulated, temp controlled RV garages, JEALOUS!
My next shop will be at min of 3k sq ft and min of 14ft high so I can get a 12k car lift installed. Roll ups on each end so I can drive straight through. I want to do a nice sized wood burning stove or make one that will take 30" logs all day long with a lid I can open up and use a winch to pick up and drop them in 😁
 
It does sound like you are trying to be rude, and just trying to argue. You're also using more assumptions to try to make your point like

That's a first. I think you're wrong on the heat transfer, and a vehicle heating up a garage so he doesn't lose heat. I also think if it's that cold out where a vehicle can't heat up a garage, then a heat gun (on low because of paint) is going to take 30 minutes to sit there and heat up a door to make a difference.

We can try this again later or not. I think your mindset is trying to have a one-sided conversation right now. I don't know you or anything, but you always seem more chill, and reasonable than the way I'm perceiving this. If I'm wrong, then okay.
Deff a waste of my energy to respond upon this today with quotes as it is and a waste of the OP thread to gain useful information for his questioning. Im as chill as the pill presented as anyone should be. Especially when I know for a fact what works and with hands on for more than 20+ years of experiencing and ruining myself or hasnt worked or does not work. My DM/PM is always available to those asking for help,advice, to conversate,to debate,or just to criticize in general. A grain of salt is considerate rather than a 10lb bag. Agreed? Im not an intellect,a scientist,or have a PHd in Physics,electrical, and the like. Im just a regular Joe that has been in this hobby for more than 30 years and have tried different things, blown things up, cooked audio gear,and several other things before we all even knew what an amplifier can and can not do or a sub or speaker and installing for shops and shops on weekends for free just to learn. Im still learning as times have changed and are changing to more digital aspects of this hobby.
I still wonder even today.. does anyone use the High level inputs on any amplifier these days rather than using an LOC as we did when I first started this hobby, and still works without the need of an LOC other than to boost signal
 
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In regards to applying deadening in the trunk, is there a good/better/best way to apply it? Such as start in the spare tire well, maybe do the flats first. I guess I'm looking for the best way to maximize materials.

Where do you guys start?
I start at the upper portion of the tire well/trunk outer sections near the tire wells and work my way back in and whats left to fill in the tire well last,especially if you retain the use of it, and I usually place a false floor with 5/8"-3/4" plywood rather than MDF to screw down outter edges to secure,using the existing carboard and carpet as a templet.hinge the area if wnting to get spare back out and move enclosure just behind that for access. gives you security to screw the enclosure from inside down so it doesnt move and no ugly L brackets to look at and areas to screw amps and other things down securely. Cheap and worth the time and effort. But i start near the fender wells and work my way around to the inner area myself
 
In regards to applying deadening in the trunk, is there a good/better/best way to apply it? Such as start in the spare tire well, maybe do the flats first. I guess I'm looking for the best way to maximize materials.

Where do you guys start?
To apply.. I use my same methods. Cut some 1ft x1ft or 18" sheets to be ready to peel, lay, roll, heat and roll and move to the next section. Larger sections are a little more harder for me to work with and roll out to contour to the shapes and molding areas as they change. Some areas that you cant get the roller on.. its easy to hit with a heat gun and use the backside of a wooden or plastic kitchen spoon or an old wooden back scratcher palm up to push and contour with. Ive got all kinds of wooden made tools i use to get in crevices that ive made myself over the years
 
If you do the false flooring.. you can save materials to use elsewhere as that false floor will deaden up and seal off that area as it lays
 
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