2000 Camry Build

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

4x8 sheet of plywood goes a long way and not as expensive as the deadner for securing your enclosure and amplifiers and deadening that area as well

 

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I do plan to install a plywood floor. I have an idea that will make it easy to remove. I plan to install a few rivet nuts and make some locating screws which are simply 1/4" bolts that have been sharpened and after installing them you press down on the plywood to indent it and then drill it out. I will countersink the holes and then when I'm ready to finalize it I will cover it with carpet and cut a small X for the flat head socket bolt to pass through. A little blue loctite will keep them from backing out. I don't plan to use the spare tire well as the box will be way too heavy to move and I already have roadside assistance with my ins. company. I do like the idea with screwing it down from the inside of the box but I don't want to have to reach through the rear seat opening to install 71lb subs. I just don't have the back for it. I plan to cover the sub box with truck bed coating and the brackets will get a couple coats of Krylon Tough Coat paint. Very durable spray paint. Everything will look good in black. Man I got so many ideas I want to do but it's gonna take a couple or three months to get all this stuff done. I wish I could afford to get it all at once but I don't want to drain my bank and live on edge. Either way, this is happening. I really do need to decide on a DSP and make it final. I wanted the Dayton DSP-408 but the local shop owner told me that there may be an extra charge as they don't know how to use it and would take longer to set it up. He talked me into the RF DSR1 as that is their go to DSP. And then again, I have read the RF has issues. So I don't know. Man these are tough decisions. Expensive ones at that.

Sounds Great!! You have some really great Ideas,.Thank you for sharing! Im always wanting to learn something new and new Ideas! I have used a scissor jack and a block of wood to install one large sub, and remove from inside the enclosure and predrill 2 top holes for the last sub to go in,and use a scissor jack and wood to hold outside sub so i could hit those two screws to hold it up with a small cordless impact with magnetic bit. Ive even done one on each side. hit one not all way in then roll the sub up and hit the other all way in and work on the others . I have some HUs with DSP, but Im still Old school and like an External PreAmp EQ to tune on the Fly. Too much work for me to pay attention on the road going in and out of the hu to tune when all i have to do is reach out and tune with a knob

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So is it a moot point to apply any deadening to the trunk at this point? Aside from the sides and trunk lid?

Depends on you really on how you want to deaden your vehicle. I like do do ALL I can. Is it really necessary to use deadner where you will be placing plywood to cover that area? Not really IMHO. but if I have enough and planned on it anyways? Hell Yes.. Or use the rest for other aresa as needed such as the doors,front floorboards ect?

 

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So is it a moot point to apply any deadening to the trunk at this point? Aside from the sides and trunk lid?

Maybe it will, maybe it doesn't matter, I already bought this stuff for the floor so why not! I'll feel better about it. Plus a 24 year old car is very prone to rattles!

Its your vehicle. You do whatever you want with it and feel like works for you man.

 

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

So is it a moot point to apply any deadening to the trunk at this point? Aside from the sides and trunk lid?

I did my trunk area then attached the false wood bottom. If you want to conserve, the trunk/spare tires areas usually have some damping material in place, hit the areas that don't and then mount the false bottom. Screw the bottom down to the metal (make sure to pay attention to what is underneath, don;t want to puncture a gas tank!, The use L brackets to secure the sub. You can always paint the brackets but L brackets better than protruding bolts or nuts to prevent movement, need a bracket at every corner, front an back. In the trunk area, the fender wells, generally the area covering the tires should be the priority. As for flats or raised areas, I try to cover all that I can. The flat areas first as they will tend to resonate much more that areas that are welded to braces.

 

[HardofWhoring]

In regards to applying deadening in the trunk, is there a good/better/best way to apply it? Such as start in the spare tire well, maybe do the flats first. I guess I'm looking for the best way to maximize materials.

Where do you guys start?

I do plan to install a plywood floor. I have an idea that will make it easy to remove. I plan to install a few rivet nuts and make some locating screws which are simply 1/4" bolts that have been sharpened and after installing them you press down on the plywood to indent it and then drill it out. I will countersink the holes and then when I'm ready to finalize it I will cover it with carpet and cut a small X for the flat head socket bolt to pass through. A little blue loctite will keep them from backing out. I don't plan to use the spare tire well as the box will be way too heavy to move and I already have roadside assistance with my ins. company. I do like the idea with screwing it down from the inside of the box but I don't want to have to reach through the rear seat opening to install 71lb subs. I just don't have the back for it. I plan to cover the sub box with truck bed coating and the brackets will get a couple coats of Krylon Tough Coat paint. Very durable spray paint. Everything will look good in black. Man I got so many ideas I want to do but it's gonna take a couple or three months to get all this stuff done. I wish I could afford to get it all at once but I don't want to drain my bank and live on edge. Either way, this is happening. I really do need to decide on a DSP and make it final. I wanted the Dayton DSP-408 but the local shop owner told me that there may be an extra charge as they don't know how to use it and would take longer to set it up. He talked me into the RF DSR1 as that is their go to DSP. And then again, I have read the RF has issues. So I don't know. Man these are tough decisions. Expensive ones at that.

What to do? Apply to flats only or 100%?

View attachment 55458

If you have enough, then 100% will do more. It's not a question of will it work, (yes it will be better), it's a question of how much money and time do you want to spend, and how many layers do you want to do.
What I've found the best way to do is to use your finger tips, and tap on it hard, (kind of like when trying to find the stud in the wall). You will hear the difference. Thin metal will sound tinny, and the built up creases will sound thicker. The tinny is the need, and usually for several layers. The thicker areas, can usually get away with just one layer.


I recently started using rivet nuts, and had a hell of a time. They just kept spinning on me. I then tried using rivet studs, and found after install I was able to put a nut on there and tighten them down by hand about another 1/8th of a turn, and it locked em in. I think that same process would transfer over to the rivet nuts. After you install one, put a nut on that size thread bolt, with a washer out. Then install the bolt as deep as you can get it with light force. Then tighten the nut down, and you SHOULD pull the rivet nut in, just a little bit farther. This is not something I have done, and if it was me, I would test this on a scrap piece of metal in a vice to see if this idea works.

 

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[Old_Slapper]

What to do? Apply to flats only or 100%?

View attachment 55458

To help, you could spray expandable foam in the holes of the lid. Not too much, though. Remember, the foam expands, so it could cause your lid to bulge.

 

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The Stevens are a great buy right now as well. $99 a pair.

SA1 25mm Tweeter (pair)

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