2.7 ohm, 3 sub setup questions.

I am trying to figure out what my options are before buying anything else. I have a Silverado regular cab pickup, currently with two L7T 12" square DVC 4 ohm subs in the Kicker prefabbed boxes. (I chose these because they are the hardest hitting prefabbed that will let me put the seat ALL the way to the back. I am currently running a fosgate 1K watt amp. I chose these because the size is perfect to sit behind the seats, and the width is enough, where if I put the center seat back down, they are not visible.

I have taken some quick measurements and I believe I can fit a third enclosure back there, (will be tight, and I will either have to remove or cut the C pillar panels to make it fit). This is actually the finished product how it sits, other than I have since replaced these subs with the square ones (more power and 30% more cone area). I am currently running 3 subs with a focal 100x2 to some JL audio 4" in the C pillars, a Hertz D power 4 with 130x2 to a set of JL audio ZR 650 components in the door, and the 2 L7t 600w RMS 12" Kicker subs powered by a Fosgate P1000x2 amp, (that sits completely under the seat, and will cut out from overheating when its about 108+ degrees out with the windows down, after about an hour at full). It might not look good in the picture, but that's fully installed, and completely hidden when the seats are installed. (That junk in the middle is a board with the two distribution blocks, a relay and a busbar to wire the remote wires). It's decently loud and hits well, considering I wasn't going to compromise on the seats or my leg room.

setup.jpg


ON TO THE QUESTIONS:
1. Just to triple check, as long as an amp can run 2 ohms, it can run at 2.7 ohms?

2. 2.7ohms is 1/3rd between 2ohm and 4ohm (where all the power settings are listed). If I put in a 3rd sub, they are rated at max of 600w RMS. I would like to get as close to that as possible. The JL audio HD amps are one of the few that run the same RMS power at 2 ohms and 4 ohms. If I want to get 1800w @ 2.7ohms, how can I get to that number? Is there a formula that would allow me to figure this out, or is it just something I would have to guess at? (I tried searching for this, and from what I gathered I would need, to know the amplifier's amperage output, and would then be able to figure the wattage). Is there any way to figure out what an amp's wattage is at 2.7ohms when nobody lists that?
 
I am trying to figure out what my options are before buying anything else. I have a Silverado regular cab pickup, currently with two L7T 12" square DVC 4 ohm subs in the Kicker prefabbed boxes. (I chose these because they are the hardest hitting prefabbed that will let me put the seat ALL the way to the back. I am currently running a fosgate 1K watt amp. I chose these because the size is perfect to sit behind the seats, and the width is enough, where if I put the center seat back down, they are not visible.

I have taken some quick measurements and I believe I can fit a third enclosure back there, (will be tight, and I will either have to remove or cut the C pillar panels to make it fit). This is actually the finished product how it sits, other than I have since replaced these subs with the square ones (more power and 30% more cone area). I am currently running 3 subs with a focal 100x2 to some JL audio 4" in the C pillars, a Hertz D power 4 with 130x2 to a set of JL audio ZR 650 components in the door, and the 2 L7t 600w RMS 12" Kicker subs powered by a Fosgate P1000x2 amp, (that sits completely under the seat, and will cut out from overheating when its about 108+ degrees out with the windows down, after about an hour at full). It might not look good in the picture, but that's fully installed, and completely hidden when the seats are installed. (That junk in the middle is a board with the two distribution blocks, a relay and a busbar to wire the remote wires). It's decently loud and hits well, considering I wasn't going to compromise on the seats or my leg room.

View attachment 41466

ON TO THE QUESTIONS:
1. Just to triple check, as long as an amp can run 2 ohms, it can run at 2.7 ohms?

2. 2.7ohms is 1/3rd between 2ohm and 4ohm (where all the power settings are listed). If I put in a 3rd sub, they are rated at max of 600w RMS. I would like to get as close to that as possible. The JL audio HD amps are one of the few that run the same RMS power at 2 ohms and 4 ohms. If I want to get 1800w @ 2.7ohms, how can I get to that number? Is there a formula that would allow me to figure this out, or is it just something I would have to guess at? (I tried searching for this, and from what I gathered I would need, to know the amplifier's amperage output, and would then be able to figure the wattage). Is there any way to figure out what an amp's wattage is at 2.7ohms when nobody lists that?
You're going to probably want something with a regulated power supply so you can get consistent power output between two and four ohms like the tar amp smart 3K. That way you get consistent power between two and four ohms going with a 3K amp. It may be a little much, but you can always keep the game turned down that way you don't use the full 3 kilowatts of power
 
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I had to look up that amp. It is 3,000 w at 1 ohm and 2 ohm, then 2,000w @ 4 ohm. That one would definitely be too much for me.

I don't see how dropping the gain would help. I have a DD1 (or whatever is close to that), so I can set my gains correctly. Gains just match the voltage from the head unit to the amp for the best input signal. The gains set properly is just the best way to always set up amps.

Unless I'm somehow mistaken, I think of gains as: When you're talking on the phone, the setting is like the distance you hold your phone away from your mouth. If the gain is set low, you are holding the phone farther away, and need to turn up the volume at the head (unit/mouth) to get the same decibel coming through. Hold it to close and you clip, (again, against your mouth), and you start to distort the signal. The best thing to do is to hold it at the right distance away so its at its clearest, and you take that variable out of the equation.
 
I had to look up that amp. It is 3,000 w at 1 ohm and 2 ohm, then 2,000w @ 4 ohm. That one would definitely be too much for me.

I don't see how dropping the gain would help. I have a DD1 (or whatever is close to that), so I can set my gains correctly. Gains just match the voltage from the head unit to the amp for the best input signal. The gains set properly is just the best way to always set up amps.

Unless I'm somehow mistaken, I think of gains as: When you're talking on the phone, the setting is like the distance you hold your phone away from your mouth. If the gain is set low, you are holding the phone farther away, and need to turn up the volume at the head (unit/mouth) to get the same decibel coming through. Hold it to close and you clip, (again, against your mouth), and you start to distort the signal. The best thing to do is to hold it at the right distance away so its at its clearest, and you take that variable out of the equation.

No gain is only to adjust the amps sensitivity to input voltage.

Below the max output voltage of the radio the gain knob act like a power knob. And 2000w at 4ohm is what I would look for since your amp will never see less than 2.67 and will only see higher due to box rise.

The dd1 is great for maximizing the output of an amp but using simple math you can set an amp that makes rated power to any wattage below what it actually makes

V(ac)=√(w×r)
√(1800watt×2.67ohm)=69.3v(ac)
It only takes a multimeter set to ac voltage at the amp outputs.

And having more power than needed isn't a bad thing
 
No gain is only to adjust the amps sensitivity to input voltage.

Below the max output voltage of the radio the gain knob act like a power knob. And 2000w at 4ohm is what I would look for since your amp will never see less than 2.67 and will only see higher due to box rise.

The dd1 is great for maximizing the output of an amp but using simple math you can set an amp that makes rated power to any wattage below what it actually makes

V(ac)=√(w×r)
√(1800watt×2.67ohm)=69.3v(ac)
It only takes a multimeter set to ac voltage at the amp outputs.

And having more power than needed isn't a bad thing
No it isn't. The GAIN is the amp GAINING voltage to improve the signal. The gain is taking the head unit's, output signal VOLTAGE and GAINING, VOLTAGE.

Setting the gain properly is maximizing the voltage signal to the amp's ability, (in conjunction with the head unit). When you set the gain too high, you are pushing too much voltage into the wave and distorting the wave, that is clipping. If you set it to low, then you are creating a weaker signal. It doesn't act like a power knob as in wattage. It is only sending out a weaker signal ( "a lazy/weak wave"). It then takes more power/volume/wattage to get to the same decibel.

Setting the gain too low, is like trying to yell while talking in a whisper. It's not going to change the wattage at all, it's only going to change the signal. Setting the gain properly is your best singing voice. Setting the gain too high is like screaming and your voice breaks/cracks, (even if its at a low volume).
 
If you are going to run a 3rd sub of the same Ohm Value. I would look at a 2k up to 3k @2ohms mono. The taramps 3k@2 ohms will be pretty cheap and has cooling fan to help from heat. the One ohm version will prob get you close to the 1500- rms range @2ohms value and prob less closer to 4ohms value.Two Ohm mono amp will work for your needs.I would only pick up the 1 ohm version if I were thinking about running that load at a later time. Smart 3 is the best option if you can find one available
 
Setting the gain too low, is like trying to yell while talking in a whisper. It's not going to change the wattage at all, it's only going to change the signal. Setting the gain properly is your best singing voice. Setting the gain too high is like screaming and your voice breaks/cracks, (even if its at a low volume).

LMFAO. Nope...
 
Are you one of those types? (as in, clearly you don't honestly think you are trying to help anyone in any possible way with that comment, right?) Try using complete sentences. If you think that was meant to be an exact comment, then move along. It was and is a generic way to relate it.

Oh I'm helping let you know you don't know what you are talking about. (y)
 
No it isn't. The GAIN is the amp GAINING voltage to improve the signal. The gain is taking the head unit's, output signal VOLTAGE and GAINING, VOLTAGE.

Setting the gain properly is maximizing the voltage signal to the amp's ability, (in conjunction with the head unit). When you set the gain too high, you are pushing too much voltage into the wave and distorting the wave, that is clipping. If you set it to low, then you are creating a weaker signal. It doesn't act like a power knob as in wattage. It is only sending out a weaker signal ( "a lazy/weak wave"). It then takes more power/volume/wattage to get to the same decibel.

Setting the gain too low, is like trying to yell while talking in a whisper. It's not going to change the wattage at all, it's only going to change the signal. Setting the gain properly is your best singing voice. Setting the gain too high is like screaming and your voice breaks/cracks, (even if its at a low volume).

Lol ok bud you so totally know what your doing you came here to ask for help.

I've been doing car audio for 15years and actually know what ohms law is unlike you.

You want help go to YouTube because what you want you don't need a dd1 to do

Btw you don't need to maximize and oversized amp but got ahead and get bent Idc
 
You two seriously need some help. Both of you have some serious insecurity issues.
Oh I'm helping let you know you don't know what you are talking about. (y)
Ok, bye.


Lol ok bud you so totally know what your doing you came here to ask for help.

I've been doing car audio for 15years and actually know what ohms law is unlike you.

You want help go to YouTube because what you want you don't need a dd1 to do

Btw you don't need to maximize and oversized amp but got ahead and get bent Idc

Feel better?? You're getting ridiculously petty and childish now.

I don't know what you think the point of this post is. I've been doing my systems off and on for longer than 15 years, what's your point? Do you know everything?

Since you think you know everything, please explain to me how, when I say that I want an amp that will put out 1800 watts RMS at 2.7ohms, you think the answer is an amp that puts out 2,000 watts at 2.0 ohms, and 3,000 watts at 4ohms. You're not even doing basic math. Even on your own example you some how don't realize that would be somewhere around 30% more than what I want, and then your reasoning is to turn down the gain, (which has nothing to do with wattage).


Since you want to have fun with this:
Below the max output voltage of the radio the gain knob act like a power knob. And 2000w at 4ohm is what I would look for since your amp will never see less than 2.67 and will only see higher due to box rise.
How do you not get how ridiculous this sounds? If the gain acted like a volume knob below max output voltage, then why doesn't it do that above max voltage??? (HINT: because it's not about the power/wattage, its about the voltage to create the cleanest/best/strongest, wave/signal). The gain is not how it puts out the signal, it's about how it improves the signal before sending it out. (I think this is the third time I've tried to explain this to you), and you think it's somehow a secondary wattage control.


The dd1 is great for maximizing the output of an amp but using simple math you can set an amp that makes rated power to any wattage below what it actually makes
The DD1 is to set the gain. You don't even get how your two paragraphs in the same comment contradict each other. If setting the gain below its nominal setting, still makes rated power, THEN "HOW IT WOULD ACT LIKE A POWER KNOB"?



I was honestly just trying to keep it respectful about it early on, but you have shown multiple times you have NO clue what you are talking about. You honestly haven't contributed a single thing to this thread, (either one of you).
 
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