2.7 ohm, 3 sub setup questions.

[HardofWhoring]

I am trying to figure out what my options are before buying anything else. I have a Silverado regular cab pickup, currently with two L7T 12" square DVC 4 ohm subs in the Kicker prefabbed boxes. (I chose these because they are the hardest hitting prefabbed that will let me put the seat ALL the way to the back. I am currently running a fosgate 1K watt amp. I chose these because the size is perfect to sit behind the seats, and the width is enough, where if I put the center seat back down, they are not visible.

I have taken some quick measurements and I believe I can fit a third enclosure back there, (will be tight, and I will either have to remove or cut the C pillar panels to make it fit). This is actually the finished product how it sits, other than I have since replaced these subs with the square ones (more power and 30% more cone area). I am currently running 3 subs with a focal 100x2 to some JL audio 4" in the C pillars, a Hertz D power 4 with 130x2 to a set of JL audio ZR 650 components in the door, and the 2 L7t 600w RMS 12" Kicker subs powered by a Fosgate P1000x2 amp, (that sits completely under the seat, and will cut out from overheating when its about 108+ degrees out with the windows down, after about an hour at full). It might not look good in the picture, but that's fully installed, and completely hidden when the seats are installed. (That junk in the middle is a board with the two distribution blocks, a relay and a busbar to wire the remote wires). It's decently loud and hits well, considering I wasn't going to compromise on the seats or my leg room.

ON TO THE QUESTIONS:
1. Just to triple check, as long as an amp can run 2 ohms, it can run at 2.7 ohms?

2. 2.7ohms is 1/3rd between 2ohm and 4ohm (where all the power settings are listed). If I put in a 3rd sub, they are rated at max of 600w RMS. I would like to get as close to that as possible. The JL audio HD amps are one of the few that run the same RMS power at 2 ohms and 4 ohms. If I want to get 1800w @ 2.7ohms, how can I get to that number? Is there a formula that would allow me to figure this out, or is it just something I would have to guess at? (I tried searching for this, and from what I gathered I would need, to know the amplifier's amperage output, and would then be able to figure the wattage). Is there any way to figure out what an amp's wattage is at 2.7ohms when nobody lists that?

 

[winkychevelle]

Since you think you know everything, please explain to me how, when I say that I want an amp that will put out 1800 watts RMS at 2.7ohms, you think the answer is an amp that puts out 2,000 watts at 2.0 ohms, and 3,000 watts at 4ohms. You're not even doing basic math. Even on your own example you some how don't realize that would be somewhere around 30% more than what I want, and then your reasoning is to turn down the gain, (which has nothing to do with wattage).

Idk what you want. You have 3 600w rms subs 3×600=1800w I did the formula off of that. Don't want 1800w adjust the numbers in the formula.

You asked for the formula here it is V(ac)=√(w×r)

The DD1 is to set the gain. You don't even get how your two paragraphs in the same comment contradict each other. If setting the gain below its nominal setting, still makes rated power, THEN "HOW IT WOULD ACT LIKE A POWER KNOB"?

This is wrong setting the gain below the nominal would not allow it to make rated power. That's why it acts like a power knob BELOW that point.

Bud I was trying to help. Gave you the best advice possible. If you don't know how the gain knob works then learn because the gain infact raises output voltage until it reaches maximum output. So yes if you lower the gain you lower the output voltage.

What you are saying makes no sense at all. You think it does, but youre just looking like a fool.

I'm not responding anymore as I've given you all the help I can

 

[HardofWhoring]

Since you think you know everything, please explain to me how, when I say that I want an amp that will put out 1800 watts RMS at 2.7ohms, you think the answer is an amp that puts out 2,000 watts at 2.0 ohms, and 3,000 watts at 4ohms. You're not even doing basic math. Even on your own example you some how don't realize that would be somewhere around 30% more than what I want, and then your reasoning is to turn down the gain, (which has nothing to do with wattage).

Idk what you want. You have 3 600w rms subs 3×600=1800w I did the formula off of that. Don't want 1800w adjust the numbers in the formula.

You asked for the formula here it is V(ac)=√(w×r)

The DD1 is to set the gain. You don't even get how your two paragraphs in the same comment contradict each other. If setting the gain below its nominal setting, still makes rated power, THEN "HOW IT WOULD ACT LIKE A POWER KNOB"?

This is wrong setting the gain below the nominal would not allow it to make rated power. That's why it acts like a power knob BELOW that point.

Bud I was trying to help. Gave you the best advice possible. If you don't know how the gain knob works then learn because the gain infact raises output voltage until it reaches maximum output. So yes if you lower the gain you lower the output voltage.

What you are saying makes no sense at all. You think it does, but youre just looking like a fool.

I'm not responding anymore as I've given you all the help I can

Wow you are a jackazz. You said it effects "sensitivity" and that is wrong. It does increase voltage like I said it does. What I was wrong about was that I was thinking it increases the voltage then sends the wattage, but it multiplies it. That was it.

Then the two you turned this into an azzhole competition because I thought it added and not multiplied. All this nonsense for what?? Screw you both.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Thanks, that's all I was wondering. That helps answer my question. It's too bad it took all this other BS to get there.

 

[Popwarhomie]

Wow you are a jackazz. You said it effects "sensitivity" and that is wrong. It does increase voltage like I said it does. What I was wrong about was that I was thinking it increases the voltage then sends the wattage, but it multiplies it. That was it.

Then the two you turned this into an azzhole competition because I thought it added and not multiplied. All this nonsense for what?? Screw you both.

So you were wrong but we are the assholes for telling you that you were wrong...


You fit in perfectly here....

 

[HardofWhoring]

So you were wrong but we are the assholes for telling you that you were wrong...


You fit in perfectly here....

I was wrong because I had the HOW wrong.
He was wrong for the way he worded it.
You were wrong for being nothing but a troll.
We were all wrong for increasing the jackassery.


No, I don't NEED to try to help people in here. I answered a few other threads while I was trying to get help, (tried to give a little to get a little). That was too much to handle for you.

I've got a feeling the two of you are young kids (probably in your 30s). No kids, no house, no roots. You seem to have no concept of community. That's what this and other forums like this should be. There's a ridiculous amount of insecurity in all aspects of the car world. Many want to help, and many don't want others to have what they have, because it's the only way they can feel good about themselves, (even when it's just information). I think that's exactly what happened here with you two.

I got my answer, and my life will keep moving on. I may come back in here to help others when I can. Not sure what you two are doing in here, but this thread went well beyond stupid. I think you enjoyed that part, and I think you need to grow up.

Answer has been received. I couldn't care less what you two say from here on out.
/thread.

 

[winkychevelle]

I was wrong because I had the HOW wrong.
He was wrong for the way he worded it.
You were wrong for being nothing but a troll.
We were all wrong for increasing the jackassery.


No, I don't NEED to try to help people in here. I answered a few other threads while I was trying to get help, (tried to give a little to get a little). That was too much to handle for you.

I've got a feeling the two of you are young kids (probably in your 30s). No kids, no house, no roots. You seem to have no concept of community. That's what this and other forums like this should be. There's a ridiculous amount of insecurity in all aspects of the car world. Many want to help, and many don't want others to have what they have, because it's the only way they can feel good about themselves, (even when it's just information). I think that's exactly what happened here with you two.

I got my answer, and my life will keep moving on. I may come back in here to help others when I can. Not sure what you two are doing in here, but this thread went well beyond stupid. I think you enjoyed that part, and I think you need to grow up.

Answer has been received. I couldn't care less what you two say from here on out.
/thread.

Sure we need to grow up, ok. I gave you the exact answer then you blew up on me saying I was wrong. Time for self reflection bud. Cant take criticism into your method don't ask for it.

My thing is if you knew the answer why did you ask us?

And I'm not gonna explain the clipping process when I can tell you how to avoid it in a much simpler way. The internet has plenty of info on clipping already.

The smd dd1 is a great tool but it damn sure isn't the end all be all. That tool is new like what 5 years since release? How long have we done this before that tool was available? We used formulas based on physics and osilliscopes.

We used to answer these basic questions daily 2007-2012 since then all the car audio forums have fell off.