2 10w6v3 and ported enclosure 500 bucks!

Your telling me if i were to get three more w6s all sealed it still wouldnt be loud? Not saying i would but everyone, everywhere stated, for accurate and metal music go sealed. I figured. If i went with a bigger sub, itd be as loud as a ported 10. ****! Was there more flaws in my logic?!
yeah you should have gotten 2 subs instead and a lot more power. With sealed setups, you need cone area. You could have done two W0 15s sealed and be way happier.

Yeah, me lol. So grounds for the amp and big three are all on solid metal surfaces. No hanging brackets or anything like that. All grounding surfaces were brought down to bare metal, sanded, then wiped down and cleaned. Power wire 4 awg down the right side of vehicle. 9 con wite brought down from left. And RCaS brought down the middle. I did no special grounding with the head unit, only with what wires in the wire harness which were provided. Triple checked all wires for correctness in which ones go together. I also used 1/0 ofc wire for big 3 up front. Nezt upgrade is 240 amp alternator which i already ordered from mechman. I cant think of anything else that could introduce hiss. Amp grounding terminals are solid and cannot move. Big 3 grounds could be crimped alittle better but with a basic crimper its a bit challenging to get it 100%
use a multi-meter and test the resistance of the grounds, your vehicle might have some weird unibody design which needs a different grounding point. put it on ohms and have the pos plugged inside the wire and the negative on the ground location itself.

ground the RCAs and run a dedicated head unit ground. If all fails run a ground loop isolator.

 
Your telling me if i were to get three more w6s all sealed it still wouldnt be loud? Not saying i would but everyone, everywhere stated, for accurate and metal music go sealed. I figured. If i went with a bigger sub, itd be as loud as a ported 10. ****! Was there more flaws in my logic?!
I also might add, these new amps are the only ones that have not heated up on me AT ALL. Both the 4 channel and the mono. Every other amp ive had or tryed get warm or hot to the touch with heavy bass. And as far as i can tell the sub is not hot. I would imagine thr cone would be hot if it was distorting long enough? Nope everything is nice and cool and no slapping. I was just making sure cause sometimes i have a hard time identifying distortion

 
yeah you should have gotten 2 subs instead and a lot more power. With sealed setups, you need cone area. You could have done two W0 15s sealed and be way happier.


use a multi-meter and test the resistance of the grounds, your vehicle might have some weird unibody design which needs a different grounding point. put it on ohms and have the pos plugged inside the wire and the negative on the ground location itself.

ground the RCAs and run a dedicated head unit ground. If all fails run a ground loop isolator.
But if i turn all the HU options off, eq, space enhancer, bass boost and so many more options, off, then theres no hissing. And its only noticable at 75% and up really even then. Anyways some of those things will require more research on my part to figure out. Like what numbers id look for on grounding points.

 
yeah you should have gotten 2 subs instead and a lot more power. With sealed setups, you need cone area. You could have done two W0 15s sealed and be way happier.


use a multi-meter and test the resistance of the grounds, your vehicle might have some weird unibody design which needs a different grounding point. put it on ohms and have the pos plugged inside the wire and the negative on the ground location itself.

ground the RCAs and run a dedicated head unit ground. If all fails run a ground loop isolator.
Anyway thanks for all the advics. I will work on these things to get what i have sounding better

 
Should I get the arc processor or wait on the new zapco with the built in rta?
Niether. The ARC way to complicated. And they never release updates.

Idk about the Zap. The last one was ******.

A Dayton mic and REW will handle the RTA just fine.

Helix is winning and it's easy to use

JL TwK is nice also and cheaper.

Hertz has the H8 which uses a newer Bit software. And it's cheaper then a bit 1.

You can DL the software and see what you like.

 
Niether. The ARC way to complicated. And they never release updates. Idk about the Zap. The last one was ******.

A Dayton mic and REW will handle the RTA just fine.

Helix is winning and it's easy to use

JL TwK is nice also and cheaper.

Hertz has the H8 which uses a newer Bit software. And it's cheaper then a bit 1.

You can DL the software and see what you like.
Id appreciate any links.

its about time for me to upgrade the processing.

the arc video i seen looked easy enough. where do you get the software downloads?

 
ITS THE FL TWEETER IS THE NAME OF THE OUTPUT ON THE CD PLAYER THAT WAY I AND CORRELATE IT TO MY CD PLAYERS OUTPUTS WITHOUT GUESSING. plus im ******* around

here



doing this would give me more controls without hooking the laptop up. all i have to do is keep the crossover FLAT on the CD player or defeat them completely

 
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