2 10w6v3 and ported enclosure 500 bucks!

i can tell by how bad the sub is struggling to play the upper end of that song.i can also tell its way beyond its linear throw.
Speaking of linear throw,if your refering to excursion, the 12w6 should be able to handle atleast an inchof movement as like long as theres no "slapping" noise correct? Setting the gain with a dmm based off sonic electronics method left alot to be desired with the outputof the sub. So i just turned the bass boost, lower db eq up and sw lvl. Retarded i know, and also defeats the purpose of setting the gain but it was so quiet and barely set to 20 25 percent gain via the dmm method. Oh and time for a new alternator. After turning that bad boy up my lights dimmed bad

 
Speaking of linear throw,if your refering to excursion, the 12w6 should be able to handle atleast an inchof movement as like long as theres no "slapping" noise correct? Setting the gain with a dmm based off sonic electronics method left alot to be desired with the outputof the sub. So i just turned the bass boost, lower db eq up and sw lvl. Retarded i know, and also defeats the purpose of setting the gain but it was so quiet and barely set to 20 25 percent gain via the dmm method. Oh and time for a new alternator. After turning that bad boy up my lights dimmed bad
no bass boost at all. Use a -10 db test tone to set gains. not 0 db. Head unit volume up to 80% sub level up high as well. You gonna destroy your JL w6 with your current adjustments which is distortion hell.

lol at what i said at at earlier post that has come to pass.

 
no bass boost at all. Use a -10 db test tone to set gains. not 0 db. Head unit volume up to 80% sub level up high as well. You gonna destroy your JL w6 with your current adjustments which is distortion hell.
lol at what i said at at earlier post that has come to pass.
So after gain is set i imagin i should stay away from any further adjustments on the HU that increase the subs volume eh? Figured as much. Other then that its a great sub. But i would imagine, as much as it pains me to say this, you guys are probably right. Gotta be better subs out there. Or maybe a different enclosures will easily give me what i look for, perhaps a ported enclosure next time?

I also never heard of setting the sw lvl up high in addition to set gain? Is that so that when i decide to turn it up, it will have already been at its highest when matching HU voltage?

 
So after gain is set i imagin i should stay away from any further adjustments on the HU that increase the subs volume eh? Figured as much. Other then that its a great sub. But i would imagine, as much as it pains me to say this, you guys are probably right. Gotta be better subs out there. Or maybe a different enclosures will easily give me what i look for, perhaps a ported enclosure next time?
I also never heard of setting the sw lvl up high in addition to set gain? Is that so that when i decide to turn it up, it will have already been at its highest when matching HU voltage?

If you are willing to listen, you might learn a lot and not get screwed over by car toys salesman ever again... money straight down the drain for a very tough lesson bud but its a lesson some people need to learn. You could have gotten some extreme results with the amount of money you paid.

your head unit has a set pre-out voltage. Your EQ, sub level, loudness, loudness settings ALL affect the pre-out voltage. However, only sub level will affect the signal strength only and its a means to reach your head unit's clean pre-out voltage. While the EQ, loudness and bass boost both affect signal strength BUT they add more things to the signal which can easily result in distortion and clipping of the signal which results in quick rapid heat build up which leads to equipment death.

So if your head unit is 4 volt pre-out, you need your head unit volume up very high along with the sub level at max in order for you to reach that 4 volt pre out. Sub level is the only thing you can use on the head unit relating to bass aside from the low pass filters.

The bass boost on the amp is also a 45hz boost which distorts signal. The multi-meter method is extremely flawed because music is not a test tone and setting it based on a test tone either pigeonholes you out of output or FKs you over and clips you. For you it made you lose waaay too much output because you dont know the proper test tone to use.

The proper and veteran way of setting gains is ACTIVE Gain setting which means play music, learn all your song's basslines by heart because bass recording levels is different with EVERY song which means every song needs a different volume/sub level setting. Play music at the highest clean volume level, raise the gain till it stops getting loud, then back it off a few notches. Then its all based on your ability to memorize the bass strengths in each song and adjust on the go AKA Active setting. Theres never a oh i turn it up to 32 out of 35 and its always gonna be good. sometimes it'll be 34, some times it'll be 29. it can vary that differently based on recording and genre.

Do 10 minute listening tests and feel for HEAT in both the amp and sub. If its hot, turn either the gain or the sub level down a bit more, if its ice cold, you have a lot left in the tank. If its slightly warm, you are at a good spot.

i can tell by how bad the sub is struggling to play the upper end of that song.i can also tell its way beyond its linear throw.
like you can see stuff with the low FPS and quality a phone camera can capture lmfaooo. first your golden ears, now you got golden eyes that see through recordings too... god has blessed you with all the right body parts huh? but yeah after hearing my team ascendant 18s, there's a huge gap in sound quality vs the soundqubed hdcs lol. I have a bunch of crap in the front chamber right now and it affected the tuning soo much that i can play up to 100hz HAHAHA gnarly.

 
as for subwoofers for the price of a w6 you could have gotten this sub and in a proper ported box and power it would have completely wiped the floor with even 3 12w6s sealed.

This is not your run of the mill p*ssy *ss sub

PS: that site is where all the big boys shop for subwoofers and amps that actually have a pair of balls to them. Car toys is where all the vegans, hippies and tree huggers go to avoid that plz.

 
as for subwoofers for the price of a w6 you could have gotten this sub and in a proper ported box and power it would have completely wiped the floor with even 3 12w6s sealed.
This is not your run of the mill p*ssy *ss sub

PS: that site is where all the big boys shop for subwoofers and amps that actually have a pair of balls to them. Car toys is where all the vegans, hippies and tree huggers go to avoid that plz.
Its exhausting man. Ive been researching for well over 2 months now. I made a descision a month ago, only to find out the amp i purchased was not the best choice for alot of bass. I have never heard any good systems out there before. So good to me might be **** to you guys. And other then everyone saying jl audio is overpriced, all i was getting was way to many options, opinions, and variables with no end in sight. I honestly just wanted to listen to music as good and loud as i can. And jl had the track record and popularity for it. Hence why i chose them. However as i admit defeat and think "5k down the drain" i will, overtime do my own research for other systems out there, go to shows and see what others have to offer. I dont regret my descision but will admit your right.

Now to setting gain. Interesting, everything you just said about introducing distortion into a system with EQ, bass boost etc makes sense. As i turn on these options my idle "hiss" at high volume increases. The HU is the kenwood 9903s with alot of options that all appear to introduce the hiss. And also as youve stated SW lvl does introduce this hiss. So ive tried setting gains two ways. One with the dmm which as ive said left alot to be desired. However with the dmm i used a 60hz test tone from youtube. Whethor it was -10 db or not, idk. After that attempt failed i tryed setting it via music, everything flat and turned off. I did not have SW lvl up though, it was set to 0. I did however get most of the boom, hit, punch, and accuracy i have been craving, for the most part. I did this and did not notice any "slapping" which i guess is a subs way of distorting? I will retry this with SW lvl maxed next time

 
as for subwoofers for the price of a w6 you could have gotten this sub and in a proper ported box and power it would have completely wiped the floor with even 3 12w6s sealed.
This is not your run of the mill p*ssy *ss sub

PS: that site is where all the big boys shop for subwoofers and amps that actually have a pair of balls to them. Car toys is where all the vegans, hippies and tree huggers go to avoid that plz.
HA i was just looking at the sub right before you posted that and came back here. While the wattage is impressive and the excursion or movement on that thing looks killer, its gotta be sloppy. But idk, never heard it, obviously

 
Its exhausting man. Ive been researching for well over 2 months now. I made a descision a month ago, only to find out the amp i purchased was not the best choice for alot of bass. I have never heard any good systems out there before. So good to me might be **** to you guys. And other then everyone saying jl audio is overpriced, all i was getting was way to many options, opinions, and variables with no end in sight. I honestly just wanted to listen to music as good and loud as i can. And jl had the track record and popularity for it. Hence why i chose them. However as i admit defeat and think "5k down the drain" i will, overtime do my own research for other systems out there, go to shows and see what others have to offer. I dont regret my descision but will admit your right.
Now to setting gain. Interesting, everything you just said about introducing distortion into a system with EQ, bass boost etc makes sense. As i turn on these options my idle "hiss" at high volume increases. The HU is the kenwood 9903s with alot of options that all appear to introduce the hiss. And also as youve stated SW lvl does introduce this hiss. So ive tried setting gains two ways. One with the dmm which as ive said left alot to be desired. However with the dmm i used a 60hz test tone from youtube. Whethor it was -10 db or not, idk. After that attempt failed i tryed setting it via music, everything flat and turned off. I did not have SW lvl up though, it was set to 0. I did however get most of the boom, hit, punch, and accuracy i have been craving, for the most part. I did this and did not notice any "slapping" which i guess is a subs way of distorting? I will retry this with SW lvl maxed next time
no you can keep it like that and raise the sub level only on songs that feel like they lack a lot of bass. Your sub level is a mini gain adjustment knob up front on the head unit. Just remember to put it down when you change over to some heavy bass music genres. Next step would be a custom ported enclosure designed by someone who knows how to get people loud.. definitely not car toys.

You might want to ground your head unit better with a dedicated ground and ground the RCAs to the head unit along with making sure RCAs are ran on the opposite side of the power wire to get rid of that hiss. Thats noise in the system and that kenwood should not have any noise thats pure install issues or a manufacturer defect but very likely install related issues. It could also be the amp not being properly grounded as well with an inferior grounding point and location. I have a bad feeling about who did your install to be completely honest with you.

 
no you can keep it like that and raise the sub level only on songs that feel like they lack a lot of bass. Your sub level is a mini gain adjustment knob up front on the head unit. Just remember to put it down when you change over to some heavy bass music genres. Next step would be a custom ported enclosure designed by someone who knows how to get people loud.. definitely not car toys.

You might want to ground your head unit better with a dedicated ground and ground the RCAs to the head unit along with making sure RCAs are ran on the opposite side of the power wire to get rid of that hiss. Thats noise in the system and that kenwood should not have any noise thats pure install issues or a manufacturer defect but very likely install related issues.
The worksman ship on the box did appear lacking somewhat. But nothing i could really find that i thought would impede performance. Its just a simple sealed box with mdf. Anywho i already started looking at ported enclosures on ebay. One made to spec specifcally for 12w6 for 100 bucks. Also looks pretty simple, just with a port. So how do i know if a box is so special?

 
HA i was just looking at the sub right before you posted that and came back here. While the wattage is impressive and the excursion or movement on that thing looks killer, its gotta be sloppy. But idk, never heard it, obviously
its not sloppy due to the motor force and amount of spiders put in them. They are fairly linear and you can order them without the overly huge surround as well for a more traditional sound. these subs are double your JL's weight, the magnet is WAAAY stronger, the coil is WAAAY stronger, the spiders are WAY thicker. subs are engineered to be balanced and achieve proper sound goals. JL is not the only company that knows how to build subs. The top brands of the world arent sold in your local car toys place. Nobody runs kicker, fosgate or JL in serious SPL competitions. Even then in these "Spl" competitions you got guys that can play a wide range of clean music... but with a twist of collapsing your lungs and making hair fly.

 
The worksman ship on the box did appear lacking somewhat. But nothing i could really find that i thought would impede performance. Its just a simple sealed box with mdf. Anywho i already started looking at ported enclosures on ebay. One made to spec specifcally for 12w6 for 100 bucks. Also looks pretty simple, just with a port. So how do i know if a box is so special?
Sealed = never getting loud end of story.

As for Ebay.... nope those boxes are garbage as well. Nothing on ebay is good complete and utter garbage all of them never ever look at pre-built boxes EVER, they are designed by a monkey at best. You need someone that can wood work and then pay for a design from someone that knows how to get you loud and just have your wood worker follow the design to the teeth.

Port area, airspace tuning along with how the tuning affects your vehicle cabin gain and acoustics, proper loading, accounting for the amount of power you have on tap, making this all work with the sub's electromechanical parameters aka ts parameters etc.... all these factors go into a proper custom box design that gets you loud and sounding good. You cannot hope to achieve any results with pre-built boxes. There's way more science that goes into designing a proper loud and good sounding sub enclosure than "oh let me see whats on amazon and ebay" Keep that mindset and you'll always be disappointed.

 
no you can keep it like that and raise the sub level only on songs that feel like they lack a lot of bass. Your sub level is a mini gain adjustment knob up front on the head unit. Just remember to put it down when you change over to some heavy bass music genres. Next step would be a custom ported enclosure designed by someone who knows how to get people loud.. definitely not car toys.

You might want to ground your head unit better with a dedicated ground and ground the RCAs to the head unit along with making sure RCAs are ran on the opposite side of the power wire to get rid of that hiss. Thats noise in the system and that kenwood should not have any noise thats pure install issues or a manufacturer defect but very likely install related issues. It could also be the amp not being properly grounded as well with an inferior grounding point and location. I have a bad feeling about who did your install to be completely honest with you.
Yeah, me lol. So grounds for the amp and big three are all on solid metal surfaces. No hanging brackets or anything like that. All grounding surfaces were brought down to bare metal, sanded, then wiped down and cleaned. Power wire 4 awg down the right side of vehicle. 9 con wite brought down from left. And RCaS brought down the middle. I did no special grounding with the head unit, only with what wires in the wire harness which were provided. Triple checked all wires for correctness in which ones go together. I also used 1/0 ofc wire for big 3 up front. Nezt upgrade is 240 amp alternator which i already ordered from mechman. I cant think of anything else that could introduce hiss. Amp grounding terminals are solid and cannot move. Big 3 grounds could be crimped alittle better but with a basic crimper its a bit challenging to get it 100%

 
Sealed = never getting loud end of story.
As for Ebay.... nope those boxes are garbage as well. Nothing on ebay is good complete and utter garbage all of them never ever look at pre-built boxes EVER, they are designed by a monkey at best. You need someone that can wood work and then pay for a design from someone that knows how to get you loud and just have your wood worker follow the design to the teeth.

Port area, airspace tuning along with how the tuning affects your vehicle cabin gain and acoustics, proper loading, accounting for the amount of power you have on tap, making this all work with the sub's electromechanical parameters aka ts parameters etc.... all these factors go into a proper custom box design that gets you loud and sounding good. You cannot hope to achieve any results with pre-built boxes.
Your telling me if i were to get three more w6s all sealed it still wouldnt be loud? Not saying i would but everyone, everywhere stated, for accurate and metal music go sealed. I figured. If i went with a bigger sub, itd be as loud as a ported 10. ****! Was there more flaws in my logic?!

 
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