Featured Newbie Seeking Help with Audio Configuration

[hektikm6]

You are clipping 100%
Can you also post a picture of your amplifier gain levels

will post that shortly

 

[hektikm6]

You are clipping 100%
Can you also post a picture of your amplifier gain levels

Attached GAIN settings. This is the clearest I am going to be able to get due to where it is unfortunately placed.

 

[hektikm6]

LC2I SETTINGS

 

[hektikm6]

PRV CROSS SETTINGS

 

[supernov4]

Hard to tell if amp gain is at zero or at 2 o'clock?

Either way my opinion for the sub section
I would eliminate using the prv crossover for the subwoofer
You can run the rca sub out from the lc2 into the input on mono amp

set low pass on amp to around 80 or 90hz
Turn gain on amp all the way down
Turn headunit to around 3/4 or the max level before your factory speakers start sounding bad
Then slowly raise sub level on the lc2 section to output around 5.5 to 6v as your amp is 6v input

You can measure the voltage with a multimeter on the rca end while playing a low frequency sine tone

Without a multimeter I would probably guess the level would need to be set around 1 o'clock as the lc2 is a 9.5v output but can't confirm 100%

Also you would need to confirm the installer tapped into the correct factory speaker wire
You need full range signal
If it was tapped into wrong one it may be missing low frequency signals

there is also a clip light on the amp you can use for reference

If you want to keep the sub on prv that's fine just turn crossover on amp all the way up
And you will probably need to lower the gain on amp all the way down

 

[hektikm6]

Hard to tell if amp gain is at zero or at 2 o'clock?

Either way my opinion for the sub section
I would eliminate using the prv crossover for the subwoofer
You can run the rca sub out from the lc2 into the input on mono amp

set low pass on amp to around 80 or 90hz
Turn gain on amp all the way down
Turn headunit to around 3/4 or the max level before your factory speakers start sounding bad
Then slowly raise sub level on the lc2 section to output around 5.5 to 6v as your amp is 6v input

You can measure the voltage with a multimeter on the rca end while playing a low frequency sine tone

Without a multimeter I would probably guess the level would need to be set around 1 o'clock as the lc2 is a 9.5v output but can't confirm 100%

Also you would need to confirm the installer tapped into the correct factory speaker wire
You need full range signal
If it was tapped into wrong one it may be missing low frequency signals

there is also a clip light on the amp you can use for reference

If you want to keep the sub on prv that's fine just turn crossover on amp all the way up
And you will probably need to lower the gain on amp all the way down

 

[hektikm6]

Thanks for the response and being so detailed! I need to confirm which wire he tapped into I will have to figure it out, as for the crossover on amp.. you advised to turn it all the way up if I can keeping the LC (I don t see crossover it’s only the three outputs to adjust as per the pic I posted) so the gain I will put all the way down. What do you think of the accubass? Should that be zero on the LC uni. Thanks again hopefully wil figure this out not giving up yet lol

 

[supernov4]

On the amp you will see
Gain
Low pass
Subsonic

Since your lc2 and prv are 9v or more output you won't need to gain any voltage on the amp as they can put out the 6v you need to run the amp at full power

The amp gain is used when let's say your headunit only puts out 3v you need to gain 3v so you would turn gain up to compensate accordingly

The low pass is your crossover
Normally you would set it to +/- 80hz low pass but since you are using the prv crossover i would set it as high as it can go as you will only be getting the 80hz from the prv crossover setting anyway
Plus using 2 crossovers on the same speaker in same frequency can mess with the slopes etc etc etc

The subsonic filter you can set it to 20hz I guess
It's mostly just to protect the woofer from getting subsonic frequencies and damaging the woofer since it's ported

As for the accubass I believe that is to compensate for the factory systems that automatically lower the bass when you put volume high

You will need to get the woofer sounding right, before you investigate if you need that

 

[supernov4]

I also just noticed on your prv 1 pic shows bass boost is up and another pic it's all the way down

If it's up turn it all the way down for now
You shouldn't need that
If it's lacking low end it could be like I mentioned before that you aren't getting low frequencies from the speaker wire they tapped which is why maybe someone tried boosting bass

Albeit you can use it but often not needed

 

[supernov4]

There's the accubass function

 

[hektikm6]

I'm about to lose my mind on this stupid PRV CROSSOVER useless - nothing makes sense! What a delinquent piece of equipment lol, I was told to ensure the "PRV piece of shit output level" should be adjusted to 50%-60% and where that is on the unit only GOD knows and CHINA. Also was told to turn the HPF - OFF, again where that is on the unit?? I am just not having it clearly, trying to stay calm. @supernov4 - I am going to go with your recommendation and just burn the PRV which seems useless at this point to my life. Appreciate the input everyone, will keep going until sorted one way or another

 

[hektikm6]

Is anyone interested in purchasing this delinquent setup off of me - I am going to be happy without this headache for now lol. How are you supposed to even adjust any of the levels the way this genius of a pebble mounted everything - I am pretty sure in the 10+ years back in the day we never had to actually get into the trunk I swear. I will discount all that is seen above, if anoyone is interested AS NEW AS DELIQUNENTLY INSTALLED, I can cover the shipping as well! So included in this sale will be the board with everything you see on it + SUNDOWN CLASSIC 12" SUB (enclosure if you are local to Dallas Tx - As shippng may be quite $$$ for the size and weight going through FEDEX. Thanks again everyone for trying but I unfortunately do not have the time nor patience for what I have on hand

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I am going to be happy without this headache for now lol.

I've reread the thread once or twice and still feel like the HU wasn't mentioned. But that is a reach seeing the users frustration.

The sub is wired directly to the mono amp at 4-ohm

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A 1000w 1 ohm stable mono amp wired 4 ohm will seriously underpower your SA classic, especially in 1.75ft3.
My advice is don't throw the baby out with the bathwater. Sa Classic 12 is one of my favorite subs to recommend and deliver output, accuracy and durability if used and installed correctly.

Its always expectations and goals. System design counts a ton... and wiring 4 ohm on that mini amp will probably net you 8ohm power under best conditions. No wonder your Sa classic was weak. Boost that signal to get output and clip city is where you'll get to.

I haven't wired a 4ohm sub load since I can't remember, back then it was a pair of RF 500m's for a STRONG 1000w result... haha

Unless I'm totally off base here the amp loading may be the main culprit.

 

[supernov4]

I've reread the thread once or twice and still feel like the HU wasn't mentioned. But that is a reach seeing the users frustration.

A 1000w 1 ohm stable mono amp wired 4 ohm will seriously underpower your SA classic, especially in 1.75ft3.
My advice is don't throw the baby out with the bathwater. Sa Classic 12 is one of my favorite subs to recommend and deliver output, accuracy and durability if used and installed correctly.

Its always expectations and goals. System design counts a ton... and wiring 4 ohm on that mini amp will probably net you 8ohm power under best conditions. No wonder your Sa classic was weak. Boost that signal to get output and clip city is where you'll get to.

I haven't wired a 4ohm sub load since I can't remember, back then it was a pair of RF 500m's for a STRONG 1000w result... haha

Unless I'm totally off base here the amp loading may be the main culprit.

Good catch i thought he was wired down to 2 ohms for 850rms
But at 4 ohms he's around 550rms

I still thinks he's just clipping
500 watts is still a fair amount to sound decent with his stock speaker set up

If you want to try bypassing the prv
Unplugg those rcas in green circles
Then run a spare rca from green circle to green circle

Turn knob labeled gain on mono amp down
Turn lc2 bass level all the way down
Turn head unit as loud as you like before the speakers start sounding bad
Then slowly start to raise the lc2 bass level up to bring the subwoofer in to where it sounds balanced to you

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Good catch i thought he was wired down to 2 ohms for 850rms
But at 4 ohms he's around 550rms

I still thinks he's just clipping
500 watts is still a fair amount to sound decent with his stock speaker set up

If you want to try bypassing the prv
Unplugg those rcas in green circles
Then run a spare rca from green circle to green circle

Turn knob labeled gain on mono amp down
Turn lc2 bass level all the way down
Turn head unit as loud as you like before the speakers start sounding bad
Then slowly start to raise the lc2 bass level up to bring the subwoofer in to where it sounds balanced to you

I currently have a Kicker compR 12 wired 2ohm on a 1000w monoblock and it rocks with deck power on the hi's... /w/ amplified hi's a 4 ohm setup from one of those mini 1ohm amps is going to lack, no question. His signal chain is one thing and yes... it may be needing attention

The sub is wired directly to the mono amp at 4-ohm, so there’s no series or parallel wiring involved on the sub side.

---

That statement alone begs questions. No series or parallel?
How TF is that accomplished with an SA classic?

Its like Forrest Gump... he cant see the trees because the forest is in the way.

No shade thrown btw... I've been doing this for almost 5 decades.