LC8i v. DSP - Is the DSP worth it?

[zoltman1991]

My current setup goal in my 2020 Lexus ES350
-T1500-bdCP pushing two CompQ 12"s
-RD400/4 pushing four 3.5"s
-P300z2 pushing two 6"x9"s

My current setup is just the mono into the subwoofers.
I have noticed that my subwoofers fall off significantly after 55-60hz. I have deduced this to the Mark Levinson only sending <60hz to the rear stock sub which my LC2i is tapped into, while the 80hz+ goes to my front door 6x9s (only low-end). This bothers me as I listen to EDM and sometimes the basslines do go a bit higher, and it doesn't blend in at all.

I need signal summing.

Two options are an LC8i. This will allow me input all the signals with summing options so I can send mid/full range (80+) to my 6x9s send the full low-end (<80hz) to my subwoofers. This is more affordable ~$170.

My other option is to get a DSP. I'm looking at the Helix DSP.2 among a few others. This will allow me to achieve what I need to get a broader low-end range by choosing which signals to combine for each output. This is more costly. ~$400-$500 depending on eBay luck.

My question is, my goal can be achieved with the LC8i alone, right? The added benefits of the DSP are staging, timing, more control over signals/ranges, uersface? Are there other benefits of the DSP that I'm not considering as an incentive? I've done research here and there, and what I listed seems to be the big selling points - for an additional several hundred dollars.

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[mahc 10+ year member]

Most factory systems in luxury cars will equalize\attenuate lower freqs depending on the volume level. A dsp can fix that but if you don't plan to have an active set-up and use all of its features, I'd say something like the jl fix86 is your best option.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

send the full low-end (<80hz) to my subwoofers.

Are you 100% certain you have a signal with low frequencies for the sub available? If not you need something like the fix (recommended above) to fix the signal...

In my wife's Ford escape there's nothing audible below 50hz

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

In my wife's Ford escape there's nothing audible below 50hz

That's what I am worried about with my civic....

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

That's what I am worried about with my civic....

Yeah I was gonna do a small sub for my wife but it'd be $400-600 just in adapters and something to cleanup the signal...all for a $200 amp and sub

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Yeah I was gonna do a small sub for my wife but it'd be $400-600 just in adapters and something to cleanup the signal...all for a $200 amp and sub

It was a PITA in my Focus ST with the Sony system... After I got it all working with a DSP a year later someone came out with a nice plug and play harness... I have an LC2i pro for the civic. If that doesn't do it I guess I'll go down the rabbit hole once again.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

It was a PITA in my Focus ST with the Sony system... After I got it all working with a DSP a year later someone came out with a nice plug and play harness... I have an LC2i pro for the civic. If that doesn't do it I guess I'll go down the rabbit hole once again.

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

I'll just buy "dumb" cars where the radio only does radio stuff

 

[JohannJohann]

My current setup goal in my 2020 Lexus ES350
-T1500-bdCP pushing two CompQ 12"s
-RD400/4 pushing four 3.5"s
-P300z2 pushing two 6"x9"s

My current setup is just the mono into the subwoofers.
I have noticed that my subwoofers fall off significantly after 55-60hz. I have deduced this to the Mark Levinson only sending <60hz to the rear stock sub which my LC2i is tapped into, while the 80hz+ goes to my front door 6x9s (only low-end). This bothers me as I listen to EDM and sometimes the basslines do go a bit higher, and it doesn't blend in at all.

I need signal summing.

Two options are an LC8i. This will allow me input all the signals with summing options so I can send mid/full range (80+) to my 6x9s send the full low-end (<80hz) to my subwoofers. This is more affordable ~$170.

My other option is to get a DSP. I'm looking at the Helix DSP.2 among a few others. This will allow me to achieve what I need to get a broader low-end range by choosing which signals to combine for each output. This is more costly. ~$400-$500 depending on eBay luck.

My question is, my goal can be achieved with the LC8i alone, right? The added benefits of the DSP are staging, timing, more control over signals/ranges, uersface? Are there other benefits of the DSP that I'm not considering as an incentive? I've done research here and there, and what I listed seems to be the big selling points - for an additional several hundred dollars.

My opinion is if you want a DSP to get a DSP integrated with an amp, and not using a stand alone DSP. I'd just go with the audio control. It still is an active LOC and crossovers and the ability to sum the signals so you you can get a fuel range signal to your amps. Since a DSP is Digital, and 95% of car amplifiers do not have digital input ( Helix amps do have a Digital input, along with AudioControl and JL Audio. Only 3 brands I know that do.) it's defeating the purpose to connect to an amplifier via RCA cables from your DSP. I'm not sure a DSP is the best way to go to fix your problem (there's also changing out the head unit. A task growing more difficult each year. lol) But personally, from what you said I think the LC8i is a better way to go. AudioControl make probably the best "integration" equipment in the car audio business. And is a specialty of theirs compared to other brands. By the way AudioControl has just recently released the "Epic" series of amplifiers. Solid build, trickle down tech from the upper models, and price points from $180-$250. Just FYI. AudioContol - it's hard to go wrong with that brand if your wallet allows. lol Hope everything works out for ya.

 

[bigherm]

I’d personally get something like this module (pac interface) direct plug and play and you take the flat signal before the amplifier then all of your amps will have the same signal then just adjust the lpf/hpf on each. Also won’t have to butcher your stock wires. In my 2021 Malibu I used this because the signal from the doors is already amplified through the stock amp in the trunk and sounded distorted also heard people getting an amplified door chime as well and changing head units was not an option.

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

What would you need a DSP (digital sound processor) for? And you're using a LOC. premium sounds. Unless you're well equipped with using DSP and LOC used for any amplifier, Delco for example, I highly doubt you're in a position to analyze this topic or give any proper answer. Sorry... Mr. zoltman1991: how many years have you been into Car Audio? I've known this topic since 1987. From learning Algebra, math, ', and calculus. This stuff is fun. But from your angle of learning the stuff, you've missed the bull's eye by a mile off. And not know you're hitting into air and think you're qualified. You've got to be kidding me. "Every battle is won, before it is ever fought." A movie millionaire in Mr. Gordon Gecko said this. WallStreet movie, 1987. Rated R. Take that to heart.

One more thought:
Assuming what you're saying is correct. And that you have set this up on a Lexus. And needing a LOC8i. Did you have help doing your own car audio work? From a local shop. If yes, what equipment did you use to measure the frequency range in which this subwoofer operates? Or the amplifier. And you added a mono amp, this means only one speaker used. You have a factory amp yet. That makes two amps then. Already strike out is your analysis. What do you make of that? Mr. zoltman1991?

Ok, One more comment: You say you made a setup like this. On a Lexus, there's a factory amp. What would be the use of a DSP from your part or including you in the setup as the Lexus was? Why add a DSP or why input a LOC8i? Toss out all the speakers by then if bypassing it, then set all to 4 ohms. Not add 2 ohms and try it out. This won't cut it. And the type of head units was? Factory or aftermarket. After market head units normally come in at 4 ohms. Very few old timers may come in at 3 ohms. That might affect frequency response then.

Ha..ha..ha...! Because I'm the front runner? Surely you're joking. Take a hike.

​

 

[spokey9 5,000+ posts]

I've known this topic since 1987

It absolutely doesn't show...

 

[Old_Slapper]

What would you need a DSP (digital sound processor) for? And you're using a LOC. premium sounds. Unless you're well equipped with using DSP and LOC used for any amplifier, Delco for example, I highly doubt you're in a position to analyze this topic or give any proper answer. Sorry... Mr. zoltman1991: how many years have you been into Car Audio? I've known this topic since 1987. From learning Algebra, math, ', and calculus. This stuff is fun. But from your angle of learning the stuff, you've missed the bull's eye by a mile off. And not know you're hitting into air and think you're qualified. You've got to be kidding me. "Every battle is won, before it is ever fought." A movie millionaire in Mr. Gordon Gecko said this. WallStreet movie, 1987. Rated R. Take that to heart.

One more thought:
Assuming what you're saying is correct. And that you have set this up on a Lexus. And needing a LOC8i. Did you have help doing your own car audio work? From a local shop. If yes, what equipment did you use to measure the frequency range in which this subwoofer operates? Or the amplifier. And you added a mono amp, this means only one speaker used. You have a factory amp yet. That makes two amps then. Already strike out is your analysis. What do you make of that? Mr. zoltman1991?

Ok, One more comment: You say you made a setup like this. On a Lexus, there's a factory amp. What would be the use of a DSP from your part or including you in the setup as the Lexus was? Why add a DSP or why input a LOC8i? Toss out all the speakers by then if bypassing it, then set all to 4 ohms. Not add 2 ohms and try it out. This won't cut it. And the type of head units was? Factory or aftermarket. After market head units normally come in at 4 ohms. Very few old timers may come in at 3 ohms. That might affect frequency response then.

Ha..ha..ha...! Because I'm the front runner? Surely you're joking. Take a hike.

​

Although what Mitchell is saying has nothing to do with what Mr. Zoltman1991 was saying, this was the most comprehensive post that Mitchell has ever made.



Mitchell directly attacked someone for no obvious reason. Can we delete him now?