JP23 or ?

Such passion. :)

Either way... whatever amp I go with, I am sure will pound a pair of 10's pretty well. I am still lacking knowledge on the whole half bridge and full bridge thing... Full bridge seem to be smaller in size but I don't know why one would choose one over the other.

Koreans are more half ohm friendly and are more friendly to borderline electrical. Full Bridge amps got a bad reputation from the get go. They have come a long way and are very reliable now if setup properly. I can buy three SIA3500's for less than the price of one SALT4.
 
Such passion. :)

Either way... whatever amp I go with, I am sure will pound a pair of 10's pretty well. I am still lacking knowledge on the whole half bridge and full bridge thing... Full bridge seem to be smaller in size but I don't know why one would choose one over the other.

I just don't think it's cool to shitt on somebody else's equipment like he repeatedly does. We all started somewhere.
 
If you want high quality then you better go with DD, McIntosh, Audison, Crescendo, or Sundown SALT amps.

You skipped ALOT of solid options for "quality" bass amps. Especially if he is talking about sound quality. I wouldn't consider the Salt amps, DD amps, or Crescendo to be "sound quality" amps either.

Matt
 
Current amps are JL in my wife’s car and I’m going to be using Incriminator in my truck. My favorite setup thus far is probably my 15 Mustang which I sold. It was the JL Fix/TwK, Zapco 4 channel, JL mono, Image Dynamics front stage and Audiofrog sub. It just sounded sooooo good.
 
So let us know which ones. Ones with power and sound quality.

OK, keeping it simple here.

Power options for 2k and under:

D4S JP-43 does 2kish at 4 ohm
Good ol SAZ 3500
MMats HD 4000.1 or m2000.2/1

Sound quality options
JL HD series monoblocks
Alpine Pdx monoblock
Helix P one or M one
Mosconi mono


The list could go on quite a bit.

Matt
 
I am going to be at 1 ohm on a pair of 10's. The signal to the amp is going to be clean and I don't think the amp itself is going to color the sound of the sub-bass as the amplifier, amplifies it. I just want to make sure I have gobs of undistorted headroom. The pair I have now is 1,000w rms. So I am looking at a 2kW-2.5kW rms @ 1ohm amp for $300 or less. Eventually I will step up the subs a lil bit.
 
OK, keeping it simple here.

Power options for 2k and under:

D4S JP-43 does 2kish at 4 ohm
Good ol SAZ 3500
MMats HD 4000.1 or m2000.2/1

Sound quality options
JL HD series monoblocks
Alpine Pdx monoblock
Helix P one or M one
Mosconi mono


The list could go on quite a bit.

Matt

And all the ones that I listed will produce good quality bass. The D4S is just a copy of a Chinese amp. I would take any of the ones that I listed over the D4S for sure. Let's not forget DC, Wolfram Arctic Wolf, Rockford BDCP, and Crossfire.
 
I am going to be at 1 ohm on a pair of 10's. The signal to the amp is going to be clean and I don't think the amp itself is going to color the sound of the sub-bass as the amplifier, amplifies it. I just want to make sure I have gobs of undistorted headroom. The pair I have now is 1,000w rms. So I am looking at a 2kW-2.5kW rms @ 1ohm amp for $300 or less. Eventually I will step up the subs a lil bit.

Smart3 or Cab22?
 
I do like the bass knob that comes with the JP. Wish more manufacturers would include ones like those.

The bluetooth bass knob on the new JP33 is a joke. My buddy installed one last night and it's a great amp besides the bass knob. To go from 0% to 100% you have to spin the bass knob like 5 complete circles. It's weird and it sukks.

20220430_131200.jpg
 
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