Should I put a second battery to my system

[Dafaseles]

So you have no crossovers set on your mids and highs. That's fine. No big deal.
Like I said, 50 hz LPF isn't a big deal. It won't damage anything. It sounds like your sending a full signal to your mids and highs, so you wouldn't have a gap in frequencies anywhere.

 

[Firewalker]

Subsonic should be set 2-3hz below what the box tuning is. Normally people set lpf at 80hz on the amplifier also.

 

[mikeysheff12]

So you have no crossovers set on your mids and highs. That's fine. No big deal.
Like I said, 50 hz LPF isn't a big deal. It won't damage anything. It sounds like your sending a full signal to your mids and highs, so you wouldn't have a gap in frequencies anywhere.

So I tried to put a wire going from my alternator to my battery positive and I’ve found out it’s almost impossible. The way my alternator is, the wires plug into it like a literal connector. There’s a post that holds the alternator in place. Technically I could just screw the lug on there but that wouldn’t exactly be my alternator going to my battery. I’m not sure what to do. I can’t find anything about it online

 

[Dafaseles]

So I tried to put a wire going from my alternator to my battery positive and I’ve found out it’s almost impossible. The way my alternator is, the wires plug into it like a literal connector. There’s a post that holds the alternator in place. Technically I could just screw the lug on there but that wouldn’t exactly be my alternator going to my battery. I’m not sure what to do. I can’t find anything about it online

What car and what year is it?

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

So I tried to put a wire going from my alternator to my battery positive and I’ve found out it’s almost impossible. The way my alternator is, the wires plug into it like a literal connector. There’s a post that holds the alternator in place. Technically I could just screw the lug on there but that wouldn’t exactly be my alternator going to my battery. I’m not sure what to do. I can’t find anything about it online

It should have a harness as well as a positive lug. Do any of the wires in the harness look large enough to carry the alternator's rated current?

 

[mikeysheff12]

What car and what year is it?

2011 Ford Fusion SE. It’s the fwd 2.5l i4

 

[mikeysheff12]

It should have a harness as well as a positive lug. Do any of the wires in the harness look large enough to carry the alternator's rated current?

They’re all very small, like radio harness wire small. There is something that looks damn near like a plug that goes over a spark plug but for the life of me, I couldn’t get it off, there’s a plastic cover behind it that I couldn’t even break off

 

[mikeysheff12]

It should have a harness as well as a positive lug. Do any of the wires in the harness look large enough to carry the alternator's rated current?

This is what I can’t get off of the alternator in order to get that plug off, it’s a cooling duct of some sort I believe

 

[Dafaseles]

This is what I can’t get off of the alternator in order to get that plug off, it’s a cooling duct of some sort I believe

Is this what your alternator looks like?

If it is, under that plug, do you see that bolt? I believe that is your positive

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Is this what your alternator looks like? View attachment 35630
If it is, under that plug, do you see that bolt? I believe that is your positive

I hope this guy isn't that helpless.

 

[Dafaseles]

I hope this guy isn't that helpless.

I'm not going to lie... unfortunately, I've seen/ helped people whom have known less. I'm sure you have too. Gotta start somewhere.
I don't know about where you live, but where I live, the actual hobby of car audio is damn near dead. So I'm just happy someone wants to learn.

 

[mikeysheff12]

Is this what your alternator looks like? View attachment 35630
If it is, under that plug, do you see that bolt? I believe that is your positive

I’m not able to see what’s under the plug, I’m guessing that’s what’s under there because of that cooling duct I showed. That would make the most sense to be the battery positive. I’m gonna try again tomorrow to see if I can get that cooling duct off to get to that plug and bolt

 

[mikeysheff12]

I'm not going to lie... unfortunately, I've seen/ helped people whom have known less. I'm sure you have too. Gotta start somewhere.
I don't know about where you live, but where I live, the actual hobby of car audio is damn near dead. So I'm just happy someone wants to learn.

It’s somewhat dead around me as well. A lot of people just take their stuff to a shop in town that rips them off and makes them spend loads of money. Nobody but only a couple people I know actually want to learn about it and build their own system. I’ve done everything from the radio, gone through three different systems, replacing everything. I started about a year and a half ago and I’m still learning more and more by the day. I’m just happy someone like you will take the time out of their day to help teach me something as small as an alternator wire. So thank you.

 

[Toma]

Maybe I should make my own post for this but I'm new here and can't really navigate this forums well...
I have a volt gauge hooked directly to my battery, I don't really have any voltage drop unless I go full tilt. But my headlights dim quite easily. They begun to dim at like half volume, far before I have voltage drop, once I get to the threshold volume level of voltage drops you can expect the headlights to be dimming extremely with each bump of bass.

Is this normal? Maybe a bigger battery or a capacitor would be handy in my situation, no need for a HO alt yet . Heck maybe I need new headlights lol

 

[1aespinoza Premium Member]

Heck maybe I need new headlights lol

It may also be something as simple as reinforcing the headlight's grounding point.